| Author |
Message |
    
Xbduck
| | Posted on Thursday, July 08, 2010 - 10:34 pm: | 
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The original problem started as I was going home from work in the rain. The bike started running rough then went to running on the rear cylinder. I had a ways to go and limped the bike half way home until the ignition fuse blew. I put in a new fuse and limped the rest of the way home.
Turned out the coil housing was cracked. I picked up a new coil at the HD shop with new wires and plugs. I took the stuff home and fought the bike for about 2 weeks. So I pulled the new coil off and had it tested. It was bad on the #1 cylinder side. So a week later I get a new coil at no charge. I almost forgot to say that I had put in 2 sets of new plugs before testing the new coil.
Well after a 3rd set of plugs and the 2nd new coil, the bike was hard to start so I adjusted the idle till I got it running. Then for a week it ran better than it had since I bought it. The only problem was that it idled high and adjusting the idle didn't work so I thought a TPS reset was needed.
Headed to work one morning last week I pulled in the clutch and slowed to a stop and noticed the bike had cut off. It wouldn't start at all. So I parked the bike, came back to it that evening, it stated and ran for 50 yards the first time then 20 yards the second and then never again.
After trickle charging the battery for 24 hours it still didn't start. I pulled the coil and the primary resistance , with the meter set on 200 ohms, read 1.5 ohms. The secondary resistance, with the meter set on 20k, read 12.78. So this coil is bad also, right? I'm not certain about using the meter, that is why I put in what I set the meter on.
Is there something I'm overlooking that could be the cause of the problem. Almost forgot I checked the wires leading to the coil per the service manual and both leads to the coil for the plugs were firing.
I really could use some help with this cause I'm running out of money and the family vacation is at the end of the month.
Also the only codes I got out of the bike using the jumper wire was 15(I unhooked the IAT once when trying to start the bike), 24 and 25 which together is supposed to mean the coil.
Thanks for taking the time to read this. |
Buell_bert
| | Posted on Friday, July 09, 2010 - 02:19 am: |
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First thing I would check is good ground. |
Snowbees
| | Posted on Friday, July 09, 2010 - 06:34 am: |
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the cutting out every 50 yards is what happened to my x1 when the bank sensor went bad. it can be disabled with ecm spy.
worth a try. |
Xbduck
| | Posted on Saturday, July 10, 2010 - 10:52 pm: |
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Thanks for the input. I was able to check the ground and it appears to be good. I rechecked the coil and both readings were the same, again. So according to the service manual it is bad. I will however be checking the bank sensor tomorrow, per the service manual.
Could it be possible for a stator going bad to cause problems and burn out a coil? |
Snowbees
| | Posted on Sunday, July 11, 2010 - 11:11 am: |
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measure the coil resistance between the center pin and either of the two outer pins , i replaced a coil due to the FSM way of testing(two outer pins) , someone pointed out that the FSM was wrong, nothing wrong with the coil i replaced. (this applies to the 1999 x1 service manual.)
(Message edited by snowbees on July 11, 2010) |
Xbduck
| | Posted on Sunday, July 11, 2010 - 10:20 pm: |
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Well Snowbees thanks for the idea of the bank sensor. It seems that after tinkering with it, things have become better. I tested the coil and it had about the same resistance on both sides.
I put the coil back on just to see, and the bike started and ran fine. Looking back on what I had done most of what I did was fiddle with the bank sensor. I read about making sure there was no metal near it and so forth. I went over the sensor with a rag and tapped it a few times to loosen it if it was stuck.
I'm going to take it for a ride tomorrow. I hope I won't have to tow it back home. |
Snowbees
| | Posted on Monday, July 12, 2010 - 02:20 am: |
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the bank sensor is a box of trickery, i think the bike will run if you disconnect it. far better off to disable it in the ecm with ecmspy. |
Murf
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 13, 2010 - 07:09 am: |
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I had a similar problem on a '05 XBS. There was a wire buried deep in the tail that would occasionally short at which time the coil would blow. It split two coils open before I found it.
Murf |
Xbduck
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 13, 2010 - 11:52 am: |
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Thanks Murf, I'll keep an eye out for that as well. I have had worn wire short issues in the past, so there could still be something I missed. |
Buell_bert
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 14, 2010 - 03:51 pm: |
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2001 M2 bank angle sensor. The bank angle sensor will NOT RUN with it disconnected. I have asked about how to disable it in the past a number of times. This would be to test it, if it would be bad. I finally got around to checking it out today. Just short pins A and B and leave C alone. Do not short A and C because you will blow the ignition fuse, if you need to ask how I know this just ask, but think first. Well thanks for listening. |
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