| Author | Message | ||
     Pyrogen |
Seriously considering the thermo-tec black exhaust wrap for wrapping my headers. But I have some questions for those whom have done this. Is there any noticeable change after wrapping the headers, ie. performance, heat reduction to frame, legs ect.? How long of the 2" roll should I buy? How difficult is wrapping the headers? Anything I should look out for? I don't care about how "ugly" wrapped headers look if it does what they claim, besides I'll be getting lower fairings one day and it will cover most of it up. Thanks for the input. Jared | ||
| Kozy |
Yeah, I've been thinking about doing this when I get a new muffler. So any info or helpful tips would be great. | ||
| Littlebutquick |
FOR THE MONEY its worth doing its easy .do inside frame with stick on heat matting as well you can do most of it if you remove air box base plate and do under that as well and the inlet snorkel. cooler air more HP  | ||
| Zackxb12s |
Make sure you have a buddy to give you a hand so it's wrapped nice and tight. I did it on my XB still holding up strong, I've seen a few other bikes out there where the wrap comes loose after a few hundred miles. Just make sure it's nice and tight. | ||
| Lastonetherebuys |
I have been also thinking at doing this but was looking and I think it would be dificult to get even coverage befor each header goes into one or should one just go around both tubes? also if I do this I want to take the headers off how difficult is geting the rear out of there? | ||
| Daniii |
So what is the advantage, performance wise, of wrapping the pipe without modding anything else? Do you have to modify the map if you wrap the pipes (doesn't seem like you should have to, but...)? | ||
| Zane_t |
In theory, insulating your pipes to keep your exhaust gases hotter further downstream results in less back pressure because hotter exhaust is less dense and pushes out the other end easier. The difference however, is so subtle that fuel remapping wouldn't be necessary. It's just one of those things that racers do to get that extra little "OOOMF" out of their engines. There's also the added benefit of not getting burned as easily. | ||
| Stevek1125r |
Don't forget to soak the wrap in water before applying it.. makes it easier to work with. it is good stuff. | ||
| Dirty_john |
Gents, can anyone answer the question of how long a roll of wrap is needed to cover the standard headers please? cheers | ||
| Smoke4ndmears |
im guessing getting it nice and tight around the rear header is going to be a chore. | ||
| Pyrogen |
Lastonetherebuys brought up a good question as well, should I try to wrap the two inlet tubes where they attach to the head separate or together? Thanks again. Jared (Message edited by pyrogen on July 09, 2010) | ||
| Trojan |
Gents, can anyone answer the question of how long a roll of wrap is needed to cover the standard headers please? I'm afraid that is like asking 'how long is a piece of string?'. It depends on how much overlap you use when wrapping. how good your wrapping technique is (just call me M&M) and how much of the pipe you actually want to wrap. If you are just doing the headers on an 1125 then there should be plenty in one pack to do both headers. Don't expect any noticeable or measurable performance increase because you will disapointed if you do. Theoretically there is an advantage but I have never seen so much as a fraction of a bhp increase on the dyno between wrapped & unwrapped pipes on the same bike. To do it properly and neatly you will have to remove the headers to wrap them. I have seen some done 'in situ' but they rarely look as neat as when done with the pipes off the bike. The only advantage to wrapping headers is that it does reduce some radiated heat, which is why I used it on our race bike - to stop melting the stickers and paint on the fairing! | ||
| Craiga |
Pyro- I've done mine three times now. Thermo-Tec is good stuff, I used DEI from Summit Racing with the coating spray. The small metal zip ties are kinda useless, get some metal hose clamps so something thicker. I used 2" all three times, around 25ft should do you good for the 1st time. Use a spray bottle instead of soaking it, just wet about a 2ft section at a time. I tried to wrap the two inlets with no success, they are really narrow and you would prob need 1" to do this correctly. I notice a lot less radiant heat around the pipes. The pipes are hard to wrap when they bend together, I wrap down my mid pipes too, on both my D&D and Barker. The pipes get really close at points and you need a friend to pry gently so you can slide the wet wrap between them so that both pipes are completely covered. Good luck. My only advise is make sure you have enough, 25ft of 2" should be good if you don't mess up and buy quality stuff, it doesn't fall apart as easily.   | ||
| Chiefiron |
Had mine done for two reasons i burned a pair of joe rocket riding pants on my XB, didnt want that to happen again and i think it looks pretty cool.  | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
with 2" tape i was able to get a decent wrap on the head tubes but then i went back over them again as a pair. the key to getting it to lay flat and take tight turns is for it to be wet as you go. whether you dunk it or spray it as you go. def recommend taking them off of the bike to get it done makes for a much better finished product. the key to using the stainless zip ties is a flat tip screw driver and a good set of pliers. pull on the the end with the pliers while pushing on the clip with the screw driver lets you get it nice and tight. also a goo way to get a clean end is to fold the very end back under a few inches that way you don't have tatters at the end also it's a good idea to use two on the end to keep it even and discourage any cutting by the zip ties | ||
| Misterrich |
I wrapped my headers the day after i got my 1125r. The only reason i did it was so its not so hot on my legs and it worked great. I used the 2 inch thick stuff with one inch of overlap. I used steel hose clamps to keep the wrap in place and tight. | ||
| 1_mike |
I used the new Titianium wrap. It doesn't need to be soaked in water to make it fit nice. It's a bit more expensive, but in the actual wrapping and the heat retention, I think it well worth the extra. So far, it seems to be holding up much better also. I used the 1" wide (NOT thick!!) to go on the smaller primary tubes, then the 2" wide for the larger tubes. I removed the front header section to wrap it. I did this twice, once with the standard white stuff with the rear header in place. Then again when I adjusted the valves and had the engine rotated...I removed the rear tube and did it properly. Again, both ends with the new Tit. wrap. I also wrapped everything in two layers..! I wanted to keep heat off of the water pump, the corner of the radiator and the frame at the rear tube. So rather than wrap just sections with two layers...I just did the whole header. I used .032" safety wire in different areas to hold the wrap in place. Kinda invisable unless you really look close. Mike | ||
| Pyrogen |
Thank you very much for the info and experiences. I will be ordering the heat wrap and looking into the best stuff to insulate the intake components. | ||
| Lastonetherebuys |
so I have decided to pull my headers off my R and try to wrap them just sourcing the exhaust gaskets and the wrap. For those who have done this, I don't have a service manuel yet, do I have to drop the muffler out to get the heads off the motor. I know I have to roll the motor forward to get the rear header off. |
