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Steveford
| Posted on Tuesday, July 06, 2010 - 06:17 pm: |
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There was a post some time back about a fellow whose Useless began handling funny in the middle of a high speed sweeper (I believe it was). Mine started wobbling really bad with Conti Sport Attacks and it turned out that I simply needed to crank the preload adjusters in 1.5 turns. Handles perfectly once again after that was done. With such a steep fork angle they're really sensitive to suspension adjustments. Hope this helps someone else, Steve Ford |
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Rwven
| Posted on Wednesday, July 07, 2010 - 06:42 am: |
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Yep, I run my chassis settings up one weight class from the recommendations in the owners manual. Works well for me. I do take exception to your use of the term "Useless"....what's that about 'eh?![](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/clipart/beater.gif) |
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Rays
| Posted on Wednesday, July 07, 2010 - 06:55 am: |
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Steve, Steve, Steve. I reckon that call Uly's "Useless" in this neighbourhood could start WW III. Anyway, back on topic - I agree about the suspension. You can go from 'zero' to 'hero' with relatively little adjustment (err and vice versa). |
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Oldwesterncowboy
| Posted on Wednesday, July 07, 2010 - 07:37 am: |
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I had tank slapping on the interstate over 90mph. found it to be the air flow around the hand guards, my gps and radar detector. I readjusted the hand guards and now can get to 110mph before tank slapps![](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/clipart/justride.gif) |
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Union_man
| Posted on Wednesday, July 07, 2010 - 10:07 am: |
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Sounds like improper suspension settings to me. After playing around with mine I found that the "recommended" settings are close to being right for me but a little fine tuning makes a big difference. Or... Tire pressure is low. Even a few lbs low can cause this feeling. If the tire is "cupped" or near worn out (especially on the front tire) you can also feel a wobble. |
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Rwven
| Posted on Wednesday, July 07, 2010 - 10:13 am: |
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Union man, If I am properly understanding what Steve is talking about, he means an oscillation of the entire chassis in a high speed sweeper not simply a head shake. I experienced this last year riding Rt. 17 in VT, my bags were loaded and I had a seat bag on but I had not increased rear preload to compensate for the additional weight. A few cranks on the preload knob cleared it right up. |
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Nobuell
| Posted on Wednesday, July 07, 2010 - 12:19 pm: |
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I have been noticing that my XT front wheel has a tendency to oscillate the handle bars slightly when decelerating. It is very slight and is more noticeable when only one hand is on the bars and stops immediately when placing the other hand on the bar. It really has not been a bother or concern, just a recent observation. The bike is solid as a rock when cornering and there is no hint of tank slapping at high speeds (recently up to approximately 115 mph). It is no worse when riding two up with the suspension set accordingly and is the same with or without the bags. I have Continental Road Attacks and run 34.5 psi front and 42 psi rear per the manufacturers recommendation. I am getting close to 12K miles on the front and looks good upon inspection. The rear is a second tire to the front with 4K miles. I also adjust the suspension as directed in the manual but one weight class higher as I like the slightly firmer ride. I am not sure if the bike has alway done it and I just started noticing or maybe the front tire is approaching end of life. I also wondered if it could be an indication of the front motor isolator starting to wear. Or is it normal? Any thoughts. Thanks |
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Rwven
| Posted on Wednesday, July 07, 2010 - 12:29 pm: |
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Nobuell, I just did a 4500 mile trip, 3500 of which was superslab. I failed to run my tires had a higher air pressure than the Buell manual calls for and my front tire cupped slightly. I am now getting that minor headshake you refer to. Riding no hands at 40 MPH it's not noticeable but as the bike decelerates the effect increases. On mine just placing a finger back on the bars stops it. Do you see any cupping on your front tire? |
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Nobuell
| Posted on Wednesday, July 07, 2010 - 12:54 pm: |
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Rwven, I will check closer when I get off work. Mine is the same. Just touch the bars and it stops. I run the tire pressure recommended by the manufacturer. The front pressure is almost the same as the stock recommendation (34.5 psi) but the rear is much higher at 42 psi. Does running a higher front pressure help tire wear? Does it affect cornering? |
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Nobuell
| Posted on Wednesday, July 07, 2010 - 01:00 pm: |
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Rwven, Did you notice it previously or just since the tires started cupping? |
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Rwven
| Posted on Wednesday, July 07, 2010 - 01:35 pm: |
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Just since the tires started cupping. I used to be able to ride it almost to a stop hands off. I've found that running 2-4 pounds high in the front tire helps prevent cupping in my limited experience. On my previous bike it even cleaned up a tire that was beginning to wear cupped. I have no harder data than that to offer though. I haven't noticed any difference in cornering, the cupping is just off the centerline of the tire so when I'm rolled over it doesn't affect anything. (Message edited by rwven on July 07, 2010) |
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Trevd
| Posted on Wednesday, July 07, 2010 - 02:30 pm: |
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On my old Honda ST1100, I would run about 42 psi in the front, up from the recommended 38. I found that it increased the amount of time it took for cupping to happen. When the cupping did happen, I would get the wobbling that you're describing. I haven't experienced any wobbling on my Uly, but then again, I run a couple of psi higher than recommended, and I have no cupping (yet). |
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Steveford
| Posted on Wednesday, July 07, 2010 - 09:06 pm: |
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I was just kidding about the Useless part - owned numerous Murder Greasies, Triumph Barnacle, various Notruns, you get the idea. This has been my 7th Buell, I'm the original owner and it's approaching 40,000 miles on it. I'd have to say it's the best bike I've owned so far despite a few mechanical let downs (rear wheel bearings, throttle body butterfly shaft, cooling fan). The tires that have worked the best on this bike have been Michilin Pilot Roads run 36 front, 38 rear for solo, 38/40 for 2 up. Perfect handling. The Conti Sport Attacks, well, I think they might be better suited to Japanese sport bikes. |
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Rwven
| Posted on Wednesday, July 07, 2010 - 10:23 pm: |
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I figured you were just kidding, that's why I put the "smileys" after my post.... |
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12x9sl
| Posted on Wednesday, July 07, 2010 - 11:12 pm: |
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The Conti Road Attacks work well on the Uly. |
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Union_man
| Posted on Wednesday, July 07, 2010 - 11:38 pm: |
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To be more clear (hopefully)... I think that Steve's problem is most likely an improper suspension setting. Although, tire pressure and wear can also cause the described condition. (Without a ride this is all just speculation.) Both ends should be adjusted to the proper settings initially and when the live load changes. The owners manual recommendations are pretty good as a start. Then ride and change the settings. Do it ***one at a time***!!! You should be able feel the bike's handling change. BTW... I have to adjust the front and rear when traveling loaded and two up. I have found that if I only twist the rear preload and do not correct the front suspension, the bike does not handle properly. Additionally... I think that if I leave the settings set "high" and ride solo the handling is even worse. I use 3 different settings, and have them settings written down in the back of my owner’s manual. (Solo, Two up, two up loaded) |
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Nobuell
| Posted on Saturday, July 10, 2010 - 09:50 am: |
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Union_man I do the same thing on my XT. I have 3 settings based on the Buell manual. 1. Single person with no bags 2. Single person with bags 3. Two riders with bags My settings are one up from recommended since I prefer a little stiffer ride. I also found that Buell's recommendation to reduce the front preload by 3 or 4 turns when two up loaded makes a huge difference. The handling two up and loaded gets very squarely when not following this recommendation. You generally cannot go wrong if the Buell recommended settings are used. But it is very important to adjust based on the changing load conditions. I have the tools set aside, chart on the garage wall and can change the setting in 5 minuets and be ready to roll. Also, I did check my front tire closer and found that it is starting to cup. That probably explains the very minor head shake when decelerating as addressed above. |
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