| Author | Message | ||
     Loud_and_low |
While replacing my rear tire, I noticed a slight amount of side to side play in the rear wheel. VERY slight, but it is there. It was there after the last tire change also, and I do use the torque specs in the service manual. Does this mean the bearings are bad? If so, what and where should I go to buy a replacement? Is it possible to change these myself with out the Buell bearing tool? Thanks in advance for any input. | ||
| Panhead_dan |
While replacing my rear tire, I noticed a slight amount of side to side play in the rear wheel. VERY slight, but it is there. It was there after the last tire change also, and I do use the torque specs in the service manual. Does this mean the bearings are bad?-- yes. If so, what and where should I go to buy a replacement?-- American Sportbike. Where else? Is it possible to change these myself with out the Buell bearing tool?-- That depends on your experience and mechanical ability. I made a bearing removal tool in about 15 minutes and used a socket as an install tool last time I did it. Thanks in advance for any input. | ||
| Big_red_79 |
Panhead_dan, do you have pics at all of your removal tool? | ||
| Panhead_dan |
No but all it was was a piece of 1/2 or 3/8 steel rod about a foot long. I chucked it it a drill and spun it while grinding the side near the end. The idea is to form a lip on the rod that will catch the bearing race. Once formed, I stick it through the hub to the back of the opposite bearing and give it a tap with a hammer. Move it to the other side of the same bearing and tap again. Repeat till the bearing falls out. | ||
| Loud_and_low |
I found these: http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/25mm/Kit479 Any experience with these bearings? | ||
| Panhead_dan |
There are some very interesting bearings on that site! If the old saying "you get what you pay for" holds true, I would scroll down and shop some more before I clicked on the $5 bearings. Sooner or later someone has to test out the ceramics and other fancy bearings. | ||
| Greg_e |
I have used several VXB bearings in different machines (none in motorcycles) and I will say that they have all seemed inferior to comparably price bearings from other places. In other words I would not use them on my 9R. Look around Boca Bearings and find a good high speed bearing, maybe even the semi ceramics. Going to cost you around $25 to $50 each depending on what you chose. Also pick up some of their bearing grease, it's pretty decent stuff and they should be able to help you get the correct grease for this application. The bonus is that the bearings from Boca will be serviceable so you can refresh the grease when you want so they should last a good long time. | ||
| Greg_e |
Specifically, I think that link is the same bearing used in my milling machine... Those bearings SUCKED! The spindle got hot after only a couple minutes at 2000 RPM. Bought some nice high speed stainless from Boca and I can run the machine for hours at 8000rpm and the spindle never gets hot. I think the bearings cost me around $25 each but so worth the extra money! | ||
| Loud_and_low |
Thanks, I'll avoid the cheapo bearings. I removed the rear wheel, and it is the brake side bearing that is bad. I assume that replacing bearings on both sides is in order. I hope to find a pair in stock at one of the Buell dealers in my area, because I need to get this rectified for a trip to the Gap next week. | ||
| Fahren |
Harbor freight also makes a reasonably priced blind bearing puller. Buy bearings from American Sport Bike or if you have a good bearing supplier locally, get good quality US, European or Japanese bearings: Timken, NSK, FAG (it's a brand). Never use cheapie bearings from China or India or whatever on your bike - even the best available from a premium supplier like American Sport Bike are not expensive. Be sure to follow the manual procedure to the letter when re-tightening your wheel: torque to spec, loosen it back out, then re-torque it to final spec. Bearing failure is most commonly caused by overtightening. | ||
| Cataract2 |
Bearing removal tool = slide hammer. Bearing install tool = hydro press. | ||
| Greg_e |
I thought you could do a reasonably decent job installing them by freezing the bearings and possibly warming the rim. | ||
| Cataract2 |
Never tried it. I found the press easiest anyways. Just a bit of shop time to rent out. ($3 for 1 hr.) | ||
| Greg_e |
I probably have all the threaded rod and washers and PVC pipe sections to press these in without too much trouble too. Pretty sure they are the same size as I use in my milling machine. You just need to be really careful that you are pushing on the correct race when doing this and certain you are not pushing on the balls or shields. | ||
| No_rice |
ive actually used the threaded rod idea on some bearings before alse. although mine was the neck bearings and i just took a stout piece of threaded rod i had laying around(cant remember if it was something like 3/4" diameter or so but it was big) then some big washers and a nut for each end. got the bearings lined up and just started cranking down on the nut with a wrench. squeezed them right in. matter of a couple min of work. no reason that wouldnt work for the wheels. anymore though i just bring my stuff to the shop and use the tools here... ya i know thats cheating lol | ||
| Brightbuell |
That threaded pipe or rod is a great idea. | ||
| Sifo |
You just need to be really careful that you are pushing on the correct race when doing this and certain you are not pushing on the balls or shields. I believe the correct way to do this is to press on both races together. If you only push on the outer race then when the inner race presses against the spacer the outer race will be pressed in too far causing a misalignment of the balls and races and early failure. I would read the FSM carefully when doing this. Not that it's hard to do, but the wrong tool will provide poor results. |
