| Author | Message | ||
     Helios |
So looks like I am having my Uly Problem. Background I have a 2006 Uly (second owner) with 24000mi on the clock, I have put 14,000 of it on in the last year. Last week on the way to work it skipped a couple of times then died but restarted after a flip of the kill switch. Did it twice on the way in and three times on the way home. Looked it up here and decided it sounded like the Bank Angle Sensor issue. Ordered and installed sensor got on it started right up drove about a mile stutter, stutter die no start no way. Now what? I am no great shakes as a mechanic and diagnosis is my main weakness any help will be appreciated. I can hear the fuel pump kick in fan running, lights and electrical seems to be working. | ||
| Helios |
So if it means anything it started right up this morning. I did not ride it but it started. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Allen | ||
| Hughlysses |
Allen- I'd suggest checking simple things, like making sure both battery connections are tight, making sure the ground connections to the frame under the seat are tight, etc. Another thing to check would be to start the bike and then turn the handlebars lock to lock; you may have a broken wire in the wiring harness. If it dies again when you do that that's a good indication. Maybe it's just a fluke and you fixed it by replacing the BAS. | ||
| Fung |
My 08 will die on the hwy, i have just hit the kill switch then to run and let go of the clutch. It fires up. I just cleaned the battery terminals and have not been on it much yet. I will keep you posted. I hope this is an easy fix. | ||
| Helios |
Thanks for the input. Starter was turning over last night but the bike was not starting. Did the star washer ground fix a while back. I will give the turning handlebars lock to lock a try. Thanks, Allen | ||
| Etennuly |
Check the wire bundle that goes to the cam position sensor. Mine was run between the engine cover and the chin fairing in a way that pinched them. They wore through causing an intermittent engine cut out. Everything else was normal. | ||
| Helios |
Well I tried to check all the wiring harnesses and cannot spot anything abnormal. Ran the bike and turned the steering stop to stop no change. Did notice my low beam headlight is out so tomorrow I will pull the screen. Also noticed that the top of the idle adjustment cable was worn near the throttle body. Does that mean anything? Idle has not been a problem. Thanks, Allen | ||
| Ratbuell |
Mine was run between the engine cover and the chin fairing in a way that pinched them If it were me, I'd go after the guy who painted that chin spoiler....  Helios - step one, get a shop manual if you don't have one already. They have great troubleshooting charts. After that...more info, please. Rain? Dry weather? New plugs/wires? Sounds like you're at the best part - Wiggle Test Time. | ||
| Helios |
I did put in new plugs about 3-4 weeks ago. Dry weather normal ridding to work, highway, and I do have the shop manual. | ||
| Helios |
So tonight as I was doing the shake and check thing and... it appears the front spark plug may not have been seated entirely. It was only hand tight and looks much darker now than the back plug. Could that have caused the stalling and dying? | ||
| Etennuly |
Rat.....ha ha.....U funny man!  The wires for the cam sensor were pulled up tighter than needed in the wad near the front pulley. It was like that when delivered. Get out the VOM check the ignition switch wires, the kill switch wires. Some of the switches have failed, would be a good place to start. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Helios- it couldn't hurt to fix it. The leaking plug could have caused weird conditions that mixed up the ECM (too lean or too rich). Tighten it up properly, make sure the wire is seated correctly, and take it for a ~3000 RPM steady cruise for 5 or 10 minutes to re-teach the ECM. | ||
| Helios |
So frustration is mounting. Ran down every wiring bundle changed the spark plugs. It started right up, got on and made it about 3 miles before it stalled and died. Tried to restart no luck. Waited about 5 minutes and it started but was sputtering and back firing like crazy managed to nurse it home by clutching and revving the engine it would smooth out go about 20 feet and start again. What makes it so frustrating is that it starts and and idles and even revs sitting in the garage with no problem. I did notice that it will not start in gear with the clutch in. Any suggestion would be helpful. Thanks, Allen | ||
| Rays |
This is an 'out of the square' suggestion but try starting it with the seat off and apply gentle pressure to the ECM connectors and wiring. I recall someone having problems that would only surface when riding and it was the seat pushing down on the ECM connectors with the rider weight that was the secret ingredient. There is another current post about what you can do to prevent damage to the ECM from the seat on an '06. It couldn't hurt to check the ECM pins either as someone else had some slight corrosion on these pins that had frustrating effects. Here is one of the posts that had similar symptoms to what you described. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142838/451645.html?1243618464 (Message edited by Rays on June 25, 2010) | ||
| Rotorhead |
Sounds like a vapor lock in the fuel system. some including me have had the tank overflow check ball stick preventing the fuel system from venting, or while running keeping the fuel tank from causing a vaccum that is greater than the fuel pump can overcome. Try a ride around with the fuel cap open. this will allow the tank to vent/breath. If you have no issues it is the overflow check ball valve. take off the airbox cover, on the right FWD side you'll see the vent tube connected to the valve. give it a quick wack of a screw driver handle to unseat the ball and you should be good to go. If you want you can take it off and it should rattle like a spray pint can if the ball is moving free. Mine was stuck from a fill up on a hot day with a hot engine and then parked it. The fuel should have expanded and over flow down the tube but the ball was stuck up after one of my many tip overs. check out this thread http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/436039.html | ||
| Helios |
Looks like "Rays" may be the man. Checked and there was definitely wear on the old hold off block so I turned it around and fabed a thing for the other side. I am not a fabricator like some of the guys on here but you work with what you got. cleaned and replugged in the connectors. Went 25miles without a hiccup. Will take it for a longer run tomorrow. If it holds I owe Rays a beer. Thanks, Allen | ||
| Helios |
Uncertainty appears to be the name of the game. I took the bike out for a long shake down and.. got 10 miles down the road and cutout, cutout die, turn around and it does it again both times I do the kill switch off back on and it starts right up. After the second time I ride 10 miles back to the house without incident so I decide I can’t fix a bike that is running good so I keep going 90 miles no problem. It dies one more time about 5 miles from the house but kill switch off/on and the rest of the way home smooth sailing. So here I sit not knowing what tomorrow will bring. Thanks for all the input, Allen | ||
| Metra6924 |
I had a similar problem recently. Rough idle and backfiring and loss of power at cruising speeds. The impression I had was a fuel delivery problem. After 3 tanks of gas from different sources, I decided it wasn't bad gas. Battery and grounds were ok. I pulled the plugs and they were black - rich mixture. Replaced the plugs and wires and still had the stumbling idle. It would idle fine for about a minute, then the speed would increase, then decrease then it would backfire and die. While I was looking around I noticed the O2 sensor wire didn't seem as secure as it should be, it was just hanging loosely. There is a plastic fitting where the sensor connector fits in. This puts the connector up and away from the head and keeps the wire from being too close to the head. This is important since the O2 sensor helps control the mixture. It works by resistance and heat can change the resistance of the wire causing an improper signal to the ECM. After I placed the connector into the fitting, the problem went away. A short test ride seems to show that the problem is gone. I'm no expert, but check the sensor connector, it's easy and cheap. |
