| Author | Message | ||
     Road_thing |
Well,let's see...I think the incident in question took place around 1971. The bottle rocket was intended to explode harmlessly in the vicinity of an SS396 that was parked in front of the Bulldog. What actually happened was that the rocket entered the vehicle through the driver's window, hit the rear-view mirror and landed in his date's walnut milkshake, where it exploded. Now, what do you figure the odds are that a bottle rocket thrown from a moving '52 GMC pickup (with inline 6 and three-on-the-tree) would fly that true? My passenger and I were highly entertained, but I can't say the same for the walnut-scented Chevy enthusiasts. We proved conclusively during the ensuing pursuit that there is, indeed, no substitute for cubic inches. Ah, youth... r-t | ||
| M2me |
Sorry to butt in here and get back on topic, but it happened to me again last night. Got stuck in a traffic jam and it puked oil! Just like my post from June 30 only this time it wasn't quite as bad but then the traffic jam was not as bad either. I've been thinking about it and I've come up with a theory about why my bike, and maybe others, pukes oil a lot in stop-and-go, traffic jam situations. Part of the reason I think is heat related but another, and I think even more important part, is the fact that the engine is constantly going from 1000 rpm at idle up to about 3000 rpm to move ahead a car length or two and then back down to 1000 rpm again to sit and idle for awhile. It's this constant, short duration, opening and closing of the throttle that causes oil to puke out the breathers. That's my theory anyway. I think I'm just going to have to live with it. It doesn't happen too often. Working in downtown Minneapolis I always have to deal with rush hour traffic but it only pukes a lot in an unusual traffic jam and on the open road it pukes almost none at all. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
John, Were you at Delano's this evening? I saw a Blue M2 around 8:00m or so. Brad | ||
| Ara |
Fgoodspeed - WD40 is NOT a good cable lube. Get a lubricant specifically for that purpose, man. | ||
| Bomber |
M2me Forgive me if you already know this, or if you've already been quizzed by the collective . . . . do your breather hoses run constantly downhill? if they have a dip and then run uphill, this can lead to spooge (oil/moisture mix) gathering in the low spot, blocking the flow of additional spooge, which is expelled vigorously from the hose when you rap it up to 3Gs again when the traffic moves . . . . . please don't ask me to reveal why I ask this question | ||
| Fgoodspeed |
Roger that, Ara  Thanks for the heads-up on the WD-40. Fred | ||
| M2me |
Brad, Nope, I wasn't in Delano the other night. Bomber, The breather hoses are still stock. The rear one turns 90 degrees straight up and then goes forward to the air box. I never thought it was a good design. I'm sure the oil mist is having a hard time traveling straight up. I have some breather hose and a filter but I've just been too lazy to change it. I plan on eventually getting it out of the air box. edited by m2me on August 08, 2003 | ||
| Bluzm2 |
John, Not Delano the town, Delano's pizza on Lake Street. To get rid of the breather issue once and for all, switch to the XB rocker covers. I did it on my M2, I'm going to do it on my S2 this winter. Easy fix, less than $80 for parts. Lots of cool bikes at Delano's last night. Cleanest 1950 Areal square 4 I've ever seen in person. What a neat piece of history. Brad | ||
| Bomber |
Me . . . .get it out of the box (but you already know that) . . . .pukage on my Y2K Ma Deuece reduced dramtically when I: 1 switched to Mobil 1 (although other synths may do as well) and 2 stopped believing the dipstick . . . . oil level just touching the dipstick seems about right on my scoot | ||
| M2me |
Brad, Oh, you mean that first Thursday thing at Lyndale and Lake? I haven't been to that in years! I forgot all about it. I used to go sometimes when I had my Sportster but haven't been there on my Buell. I'll have to try and remember to stop by there next month. I've thought about the XB covers too. But like you I would save that for a winter project. Bomber, I've been keeping my oil near the middle of the dipstick. Maybe I'll try leaving it lower and see what happens. As long it's touching the dipstick there should be plenty of oil in the tank. edited by m2me on August 08, 2003 | ||
| Adks3t |
It must be that time of the month. My s3t with forcewinder is also dripping oil out the breather. (To the inner fender and belt and tire...) Is there a barf bucket that can be attached to catch this crude or should I go the synthetic route? The dealer who last serviced my bike left the oil low (about a full quart as it turns out). Still got the drip. What's the deal on the rocker covers? Anyone know a GOOD Buell dealer in or around Northern NY? I've been to several and couldn't even find a t-shirt...more stupid questions to follow. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Synthetic will drip as well. Either setup a catch can, route the tubes such that they will drip away from the bike, or route the breathers back into the intake. Routing into the intake will burn it up, and could give you extra carbon deposits internally, but frankly after putzing with a bunch of different setups and getting countless oily right knees, I am about to route the stupid thing back in the intake anyway. | ||
| Stubby |
Could motor oil from the breathers find its way through some mysterious route to drip on the hump on the primary case (where the starter motor goes in) and from there drip down the derby cover and on to the exhaust? I'm using Mobil 1 oil and tranny oil, so they both "feel" the same sliminess. I cannot figure out how tranny oil is getting on the hump of the primary cover? It isn't blowing out the primary gasket, and I just can't figger it out! | ||
| Mikej |
Stubby, Check your rear rocker box for a leak. Shouldn't be since your profile indicates a 2002 M2, but may be. Just a thought. | ||
| Wman |
Stubby, Try looking in front of stater, sometimes tranny lube makes its way around stator wire boot. Given enough time it will run along the top of the case,drip off of the bottom near derby cover them go eveywhere while riding. A good trick is s-100 the hell out of the motor, when it dries spray sneaker deoderant where you think the leak is coming from. The powder makes it easier to find oil trail. | ||
| Adks3t |
How about a commercially available catch can? Is there such an item? | ||
| Wman |
There sure is, call Tat at American Sport Bike. I'm sure there are others I don't know about. | ||
| Stubby |
Thanks Wman. I didn't do the sneaker powder, but I did really clean the bike when I got back from Sturgis. I think the primary gasket is leaking between the two bolts at the top of the cover either side of the "hump". It is already wet there after 10 miles or so. Where to get the "good" gaskets that don't leak? | ||
| Wman |
Try some of the BBS sponsors for a Cometic, they're the best. If not James(the one with the permatex on them) are pretty good also. Just don't use the stock one they would always rip between the two lg. bolts on the bottom of the primary on me. | ||
| Adks3t |
Wman, thanks for the information. "American Sport Bike, may I help you..." | ||
| Fgoodspeed |
Holy freaking Toledo! Took the S1 for a ride after changing the oil and filter to try and get rid of any fuel that might have leaked into the oil. As soon as I started the bike it happened. Same ole problem, white, gassy smelling smoke coming from the crankcase breather  So I decided to take it down the road since it appeared to be running ok despite the smoke. Got about 2 miles from home and the bike started losing power. In fact, the more gas I gave it the less it wanted to move. And by then the white, gassy smelling smoke was billowing out of the exhaust and the crankcase breather! WTF? It stalled on me and I started pushing it home. I got about a half a mile and attempted to crank it the bike, and with some success I was able to ride the crippled beast the rest of the way home. There was some oil dripping from the crankcase breather but not too much. After it cooled off I took out both spark plugs to see if there was any oil on them. The from cylinder was fine but the rear spark plug had a good bit of wet, sooty fuel all over it. So I'm at a loss. I read somewhere on this board that it could have something to so a bad intake valve seal? Hrm, no idea so if any of you cats would like to tackle this one and give me some feedback before I load it up and bring it into the shop I would sure appreciate it. Fred | ||
| Road_thing |
Fred: You might try a compression check if you've got access to a gauge--could be bad rings in the back cylinder since you're getting what sounds like a lot of blow-by into the crankcase. r-t | ||
| Fgoodspeed |
Thanks for the advice, RT. Any ideas on how much that would cost to have it done? What about cost on having the heads redone? | ||
| Fgoodspeed |
Thanks for the advice, RT. Any ideas on how much that would cost to have it done? What about cost on having the heads redone? | ||
| Fgoodspeed |
Thanks for the advice, RT. Any ideas on how much that would cost to have it done? What about cost on having the heads redone? | ||
| Road_thing |
Fred: Compression check ought to be almost free-it's real simple, you just pull the plugs, plug the compression gauge into each spark plug hole and crank the motor over a few times with the throttle held open. I'm not sure what kind of pressures would be "normal", probably in the 125 PSI range, but if one cylinder is significantly lower than the other, that's likely to be where your problem is. Understand, your problem may lie elsewhere, but a compression check is a basic diagnostic tool that will help you figure it out. If it does in fact turn out to be rings, your heads may be perfectly OK but your cylinders may need an overbore. If you do that, you'll need new piston(s) and rings, plus all the gaskets etc. associated with doing the job. Probably a couple hundred in parts. Add in labor and I'd be surprised if you got off for under $500. And while you've got the heads off, a valve job may be in order (I don't know how many miles you've got on the bike). Good luck! r-t | ||
| Hootowl |
A compression test in conjunction with a leakdown test should help you isolate the problem. | ||
| Fgoodspeed |
Sweet, thanks guys. The bike has 20k miles on it and it's already been bored out 30 over according to it's last owner. I'm not sure what that converts to in terms of cc's but it may not be able to be overbored. Is that correct? Sheesh, I'd hate to have to buy that many new parts | ||
| Loki |
Finally got a good ride in with the XB box cover done. Some upgrades in technology are wonderful. As a bonus it really cleans up the look of the engine. Pulling off the rocker boxes to check the leaking.... I found the following: front spacer had all kinds of gouges in the front right corner. Could be someone was trying to pry it over that bolt. We will leave the rear head out of this for now, needless to say I am now looking for a replacement or a pair of t-storm heads for my winter project. As for the XB covers; I had to lower the engine to do the job on my S1. The rear was not going to clear the frame and rear left mount bolt. The front did require me to loosen the mount bolts for the front hanger. I would have had to remove way to much material from the new cover for it slide between the mount and the front right bolt. As for any clearance issues with the gas tank and pcv fixtures and hoses, absolutely none. I have them routed along the left frame rail until they make the dive down beside the battery. Beside the battery they get tee'd together with a single output line. Where this single line is snuck between the engine case and isolator and curls out right behind the side stand mount(between the frame and sidestand when it is up). Very unobtrusive location for it. | ||
| Fgoodspeed |
Cool, I'd really like to see some pictures if you get a chance to take any, Loki. |
