| Author | Message | ||
     Carmelo123 |
hey guys im pretty new to sport bikes, i only have about 2200 miles on my 1125r now. ive noticed a little wobble when ive opened the throttle up but the other day it started to wobble like crazy and i thought i was going down. somehow i got control of it but is there a reason why? my tire pressure is good and is there any way to correct this issue? thank you!! Andrew | ||
| Dannybuell |
Is the suspension set up for your weight? Try increasing the rear preload 1 or 2 clicks and see what happens. | ||
| Drawkward |
What does "tire pressure is good" mean? What PSI is it at? If you're new to sportbikes I'd highly recommend reading some material on how to ride them. Nothing is better than real world experience, but when you have a ton of BAD experience and techniques, it's not good experience. I suspect this is an issue of gripping the bars too tight. Pick up Keith Code's Twist of the Wrist 1 or 2 and take some time to read it. It helped me out immensely with a lot of problems I never realized I had. | ||
| Mountainstorm |
You've got to be mindful of steering input and it's a good idea to develop your core so that you can keep the pressure on the bars light when you want. If you find yourself leaning on the bars to support yourself, or to hang on at high speed you need to transfer that task to your torso and legs. Make your body hold itself up so your hands are resting on the bars. When running at speed on a straight you'll want to grip the tank/frame with your legs and press your upper body down on the airbox cover while keeping your elbows in and pressed against your knees (or if you're normal size, the airbox) to help stabilize everything. Flapping in the breeze can transmit an undesirable steering input to the bars. I find pushing into the bars with equal pressure with my wrists bent up, forearms lower than the grips, acts like a steering stabilizer. | ||
| Tpoppa |
Was this under hard acceleration, as the in the front end was getting light? Or just normal acceleration? Set the suspension for your weight per the manual. Double check tire pressure. Reducing rear preload (or increasing front preload)= slower steering = more stability = less likely to induce headshake. | ||
| Dannybuell |
Tpoppa - The softer the rear the more rear compression it will allow and the less weight on the front end. The faster you go the more front lift that will occur the more rear compression it will allow and less weight on the front end. Tank slappers. | ||
| Jdugger |
> Tank slappers DO NOT happen from being on the gas. Get the bars twisted up from bad input and then LET OFF the gas, you betcha. | ||
| Dannybuell |
My S1 with OEM rear shock set up for my weight the seals would last about a month and no tank slapping. After the seals blew out it was the happiest tank slapper in town over 95 mph. When I put a weight appropriate Penske on the tank slapping stopped. IDK | ||
| Tpoppa |
Tpoppa - The softer the rear the more rear compression it will allow and the less weight on the front end. The faster you go the more front lift that will occur the more rear compression it will allow and less weight on the front end. Tank slappers. Tank Slappers are usually caused by steering geometry that is set up too aggressively. Too much rear weight bias is a secondary cause of a slappers, that's why I asked if it happening under hard acceleration. Read this: http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0006_susp_handl e/index.html TERRY TANKSLAPPER Problem: Terry's bike feels unstable, especially when entering turns. The bars seem to "twitch" excessively whenever a midcorner bump is encountered. The bars often whip back and forth violently several times (or more) when Terry is accelerating aggressively over bumps while coming out of a turn--in other words, a "tankslapper." The bike steers very easily, although a lack of traction is sometimes noticeable in the rear whenever he tries to accelerate at moderate lean angles. The bike also seems to have a dropped-down, "nose low, rear-end-high" attitude while riding. Solution: The biggest distinguishing factor in this case is the "nose-low/rear-end-high" chassis attitude feeling. If Terry's bike definitely feels this way, then probably he has too much front end weight bias. This not only hinders traction at the rear, but also affects the steering geometry (steeper rake/less trail) and can cause the instability problems. As long as Terry has his suspension static sag levels set correctly, the first step is to try less rear spring preload and/or more front preload, to the point just before they begin to affect handling negatively; Terry should remember to adjust his rebound damping if necessary (in fact, he should check to see if decreasing the front rebound damping in small increments helps; the forks may be too stiff, hindering traction). If only partially successful, a more drastic step would be changing chassis ride height; this would involve raising the front end by dropping the fork tubes in the triple clamps (if there's enough material protruding above the top clamp, to ensure front fork structural integrity), and/or dropping the rear by shortening the rear shock (if possible). | ||
| Trafford |
I get the same wobble over 100mph. Its most noticeable when accelerating hard from 100. Checked wheel and head bearings. New tyres with correct pressures. Standard suspension settings for my weight +riding gear. Had fairing lowers and double bubble screen but took them off in case it was these that were causing it. Slightly better..... but still there. I've been riding a long time have a lot of experience, used to race too, and do not grip the bars hard etc. I will start working on the suspension settings next. | ||
| Carmelo123 |
ok thank you guys for all the input. i know i still have alot to learn. i will check everything and use your suggestions. The dealer said they set it for my weight when i bought it but i will double check. Thank you!! Andrew |
