| Author |
Message |
    
Spiderman
| | Posted on Sunday, May 30, 2010 - 05:59 pm: | 
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Do not drill the hole, use the new bolt... |
Cyclonemick
| | Posted on Sunday, May 30, 2010 - 08:27 pm: |
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I Am currently using the 79d because when i moddified it There was no NEW KIT! But I also have noticed that my right hand goes numb all the time now which It never seemed to before ( or at least not enough to really notice it). When or if this one fails I'm gonna give the new one a try, Might just have to order one from AL and put it back on the shelf! |
Gowindward
| | Posted on Sunday, May 30, 2010 - 08:40 pm: |
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I do not like the idea of the smaller bolt going through the motor mount hole. They (H-D) should have supplied a bushing/sleeve in the kit. IMHO. At this point not a lot of data. |
Buellistic
| | Posted on Sunday, May 30, 2010 - 09:22 pm: |
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BUELLers:
We have created this ISOLATOR PROBLEM our selves ...
The TUBE FRAME Isolators work and last just fine if we all weighted 165 pounds and "i" weight 250 pounds ...
The OEM Isolators in my frame were 47564-86 and were up-dated to -86B(ony good for about 30-40K miles) before BMC came out with the RIGHT & LEFT ones which have lasted in my bike(even two up with wife for a total weight of 500 pounds)...
The RACERS had to put STIFFNER BUSHINGS(redused the movement of the SWING ARM AXIS)in the -86B Isolators because the AGGRESSIVE RIDING tore them apart ...
"AND" being over weight and agressive riding stated to take it's toll on the front Isolators ...
Riders started to IMPROVISE "STIFFNERS" for the front Isolator which started out as PN 16207-79B, got up to -79C, and now is -79D, as the -79D would hold up in the BIG "C.I." TWINS where it reto-fits from ...
"SO", you have to understand that the "STIFFER" you make the ISOLATORS to hold up under our ABUSIVE/AGRESSIVE riding the more the ENGINE VIBRATION will be transfered to the RIDER until it will vibrate like the non-rubber mounted engine SPORTSTERS ...
SO NOW YOU KNOW THE WHOLE STORY !!!} |
Ebutch
| | Posted on Sunday, May 30, 2010 - 09:53 pm: |
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I like the new kit and have not Even installed snubber yet but will.Ride as good as it gets(over 3000 mls),for me Frank.But would like to install new S3 rear isos(modified For S2) one has 128,000++++ on it and R rear 49,000 mls.I want to mod newer isos For S2 and still add Tie-bar Top front frame as 1999 S3. |
Ebutch
| | Posted on Sunday, May 30, 2010 - 10:23 pm: |
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About $45.00 newer Rear isos and $80.00 older rear isos and smaller.Have on my S3 and newer Ride really Nice.Have to cut off frame grabbers on newer isos yet for S2T.I think Brad said it could be done.And I think he Nailed Why I go Though so many front Isos is I lug the Engine.It,s a Show-Off Thing With All That Tork and can,t Stop!!! |
Nallac
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 08, 2010 - 05:02 pm: |
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Finally got my new front iso,
a quick question....do you have to remove engine mount (X1)to do it?.
Or can it be done with out removing it?.
Will try and track down new bolts today any way..oh and some lock tight. |
Jramsey
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 08, 2010 - 05:46 pm: |
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No need to remove it from the later models,M2,S3,X1 because it mounts on top of the frame,just as the oem one does.
S2's have to mount on the bottom side for steering head clearance, so removing the head/Iso mount would gain you room to work. |
Nallac
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 08, 2010 - 07:30 pm: |
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Thanks JR.. |
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