| Author | Message | ||
     Lukesw |
Does anybody know or ever heard about this: engine off, accelerator wide open, turn the key to on without turning on the bike hold the gas knob fully open the engine light starts flashing on the dashboard, keep accelerated until the light turns off, than turn the key off and close the trottle ... job done ... You think it will work? | ||
| Nik |
That's for 2008+ bikes; fires the plugs to clear any flooding. | ||
| Ourdee |
Works sometimes, depending on how fouled the plugs are. I've had the bike do it by itself at start-up one morning. I had turned the bike on and off a few times the night before with-out running the engine. Just doing some checks on some electrical work I was doing. I have heard it would do that if you don't warm it up after starting it a few times. I didn't believe it till it did that. | ||
| Lukesw |
looking around I found also that should work like this: Set killswitch to run. Go WOT Turn the key on. Wait for engine light to go off. Turn the key off. It fires the spark plugs for 4 seconds, burning any excess fuel in the combustion chamber. It can frequently "unfoul" a "fouled" plug. | ||
| Ourdee |
Important note: Bike should be in neutral. Or something like that. | ||
| Froggy |
Wheres the fun doing it in neutral?  | ||
| Sloppy |
Cleaning combustion chambers and fouled plugs? Are we in the 1940's??? | ||
| Greg_e |
Put gas in tank, start motor, wait until motor warm... Ride it like you stole it. Has always worked for me. These engines seem to need to be run at full throttle up to red line a couple times a week. Mine was starting to bog down from the normal commute, ran first gear up hard a couple times and once again a nicely performing machine. Mine does have the newer plug clearing feature that you describe because it is older. | ||
| Fast1075 |
Idle is only a necessary evil. | ||
| Johnnylunchbox |
Greg e, that's what is known as the Italian tune-up. Works wonders on Alfa Romeos too. | ||
| Greg_e |
Works good on RX7's too. | ||
| Slaughter |
Cleaning combustion chambers? No easy way. Remove heads, remove all seats, seals and guides, bead-blast or sand combustion chamber surfaces and valve faces (protect gasket surfaces). Re-install all seats and guides. Re-face the valve seats. Seat in the valves (light lapping). Replace ALL head, valve stem and valve cover gaskets. Plugs? Piece of cake as described previously. | ||
| Nightripper |
car dealers will run a car up to operating temperature and while running the car at 3/4 throttle , you squirt or pour some small amounts of water into the engine intake, when the water hits the blowing carbon it explodes and will be blown out the exhaust. | ||
| Greg_e |
Seafoam suggests you can clean them with their product, but man after reading the procedure and watching the videos, I hesitate to poor enough down the throat to stall the engine. | ||
| Nightripper |
one tip you never use sand blasting grit on and engine as it will permanently embed itself into the pours of the metal and small amounts of sand particles will be released into the engine oil every time it heats up. I know a idiot that 20 yrs. ago completely sand blasted the inside and outside of his BMW r90s engine cases and completely rebuilt the engine. After putting it together the engine ran for 200 miles and then seized up due to all the sand embedded in the engine case internals. Glass bead can be used on an engine , but only after it has been completely disassembled and degreased, glass bead can also get trapped in small oil passages that is hard to get out. Basically a chemical or utlrasonic engine cleaner is the best. One old timers trick that works great on engine combustion pockets is easy off oven cleaner, you can brush it on or spray it on and then wash it off , it will remove all the carbon. Caution though it will turn bare aluminum black so keep it off all external engine surfaces or you will be using alot of scotch brite or steel wool to remove the blackend alloy. | ||
| Slaughter |
Good point on the blasting process - that's why I mentioned "bead blasting" or sanding - meaning fine sand-paper. Cleaning is an absolute MUST regardless. Abrasive grit-blasting instead of bead blasting IS a disaster! Good point. Main thing is there are NO SHORTCUTS to combustion chamber cleaning. | ||
| Rsh |
The process you posted looks to be either the plug clearing procedure or TPS reset procedure for the 2008 and up Buells. Plug clearing #1 roll and hold throttle wide open. #2 turn the ignition on. #3 wait 3 seconds. #4 release the throttle grip. #5 turn the ignition off TPS zero A. Set run/stop switch to ON B. Turn ignition key to ON C. With the engine OFF, rotate the throttle grip from closed throttle position to wide-open throttle position and back to closed throttle position 3 times, holding the throttle grip against each stop for 1 full second. D. Cycle key off and back on. A properly calibrated TPS sensor will indicate 3.7 to 4.2 degrees. If you really want to clean the combustion chambers. You can try to do it chemically, there are many cleaners available. Ultimately a mechanical tear down is the way to go. |
