| Author | Message | ||
     Scottorious |
Days after i purchase the extended service plan my clutch cover starts leaking fluid. I got that fixed but I was waiting on the parts for the neck bearings and while waiting for those parts my front rotor started to pulse my lever and you can see noticeable heat spots....I have yet to really brake hard so im not sure where they came from. My guage cluster also started to act funny and tell me i was idling at 3k or sometimes that i was idling at 0 RPM. I took it in yesterday to get all of those things looked at and they put it up on the stand and give me a call a few minutes later saying the rear wheel bearing was destroyed which they dont have on hand so I had to leave it at the shop....I love this thing but it pretty much sucks to continue to need service all the time. | ||
| Bott |
so extended service plans can be purchased STILL? Might be a real good idea for me, after last week's catastrophe. | ||
| Scottorious |
yah as of a couple months ago i totally bought one. I had heard that I couldnt buy one but made some calls and ended up being able to purchase one. As long as the motorcycle is still covered under the original warranty. | ||
| Bott |
looks like Tuesday I have a project. Thanks! | ||
| Puredrive |
How much are they? | ||
| Scottorious |
I dont remember for sure now. There were so many options. I will look up my paperwork. I want to say it was like 1200. | ||
| Xnoahx |
I think you should be looking at pricing from $750-1650 for 1-5 more years of warranty with optional tire and wheel coverage for $300-400. I dont have the rate sheet in front f me so these numbers aren't exact. Bike needs to still be under factory warranty to buy it. | ||
| Froggy |
Holding the front brake hard while stopped at lights. Use the rear for that instead. Oh and please update your profile! | ||
| Attweco |
I got an extended warranty, as well. I felt I could not trust that H-D would come up with permanent fixes for the clutch leak, water pump leak, fried stators, and so on. A couple of these incidents, after the original warranty runs out, pays for the extended plan. And, if you break down away from home, the plan provides a tow, housing, and substitute transportation allowance. Note that there is a $150 penalty, if you buy a plan after the original sale. | ||
| Scottorious |
Could you explain how holding the front brake hard at stop lights would cause heat spots and warpage? I dont think thats what caused mine. In central IL you dont ever need to use the brake at a stop light. Its in neutral and sittin back. | ||
| Mountainstorm |
Scotto you should know by now that anything that ever goes wrong is because some trailer trash newbie Bueller isn't riding the bike the way God or Erik Buell intended  | ||
| Jules |
When you hold a vehicle on the brakes (and the brakes are hot) then they will dissipate heat more quickly through the area that the pads are in contact with the disk. It's not a "Buell" thing it's just common sense. | ||
| Bigevildoer |
QUOTE: In central IL you dont ever need to use the brake at a stop light. Its in neutral and sittin back. Wow.... NEVER take your bike out of gear at a stop. What would happen if you notice somebody coming at you from behind that wasn't going to stop in time? Only options you've got is hope and pray they don't hit your or dump the bike and jump.... | ||
| Froggy |
Holding the front brake with the warm pads can leave deposits on the rotor when you release. It can happen on all vehicles, I've had it happen on cars, but the ZTL brake seems to be more susceptible to it. There are number of causes for the pulsing including the float springs getting clogged with dust, but if you give your rotor a good scrubbing next time you wash the bike you can possibly reduce the sensation. Allegedly doing several 60mph to 10mph stops can also clean it off.
Funny thing is, majority of the issues I have had on my bikes are due to that! How was I supposed to know that the CR's stock tires absolutely suck in the mud on a fire service road???? | ||
| Mountainstorm |
 This is why I wub Froggy sooooooo much. How often should the HW that holds the rotor to the rim be replaced? I've read here that it is considered a consumable part. | ||
| Froggy |
I've never heard of the hardware needing to be replaced outside of 24/7 track duty (like Jdugger). Good news is, the hardware kit from Erik Buell Racing is not expensive, so if it makes you feel better than do it  | ||
| Pdawg1970 |
when picking up my 09 1125r i opted for the 5 years of extra coverage. it cost me $1400. so i am now covered for 7 years....the total length of Harley's obligation to keep parts for the Buells. normally i wouldn't have even given it a second thought & declined the extended coverage but with all the inherent 'issues' with the 1125R it was a no-brainer. i just have to remain calm while waiting for service. good thing my dealer is great! | ||
| Gemini |
these contracts do not cover pm or wear items. caliper yes, rotor and brake pads no. | ||
| Xl1200r |
Are you sure you even need neck bearings? I thought my CR needed them but it turns out there's some funky 2-peice spacer in the fork legs that makes a clicking noise that sounds a lot like a loose neck bearing. | ||
| Dirty_john |
1). Not a good idea to hold the brakes on at standstill due to the risk of leaving deposits on the rotor if you have been riding really hard. 2). I always put the bike in neutral whilst waiting at traffic lights etc, no point in wearing the clutch plates/mechanism out. | ||
| Xnoahx |
The idea behind leaving the bike in gear at a light is a safety concern for some. I think about it at lights sometimes but I dont spend all my time looking in my rear views either at lights. Riding motorcycles is dangerous, we all know that. Telling people they have a deathwish by being in neutral isnt going to stop them from doing it. | ||
| Scottorious |
amen xnoahx...there are too many "what if" situations that you cant possibly cover them all What good does staying in gear do at a red light if theres traffic crossing in front of you? Or even just a car? I get pretty tired of hearing other riders scolding people for being "squids". Some people are rather reckless but who cares if some kid wants to go out for a ride in shorts and a t-shirt. I rolled in to wal-mart the other day and a guy on a blast says to me "you want a lecture on what you are wearing" I said "no" and walked in to wal-mart. I guess I'll pay the piper if i crash and im not wearing full protective gear. This was a thread about the extended service plan and specific motorcycle issues. not a style of riding critique. | ||
| Mountainstorm |
Welcome to the 1125r board. | ||
| Xnoahx |
Mountainstorm, you hit the nail on the head. This place can be vicious | ||
| Ron_luning |
I think the rotor bolts are considered consumable because they are stretch bolts and cannot be reused after removal, not because they will fail after a certain period of normal use. | ||
| Eweaver |
There is a very good chance that a $50 pair of EBC HH pads will clean the deposits off your front rotor and therefore stop the pulsing. As someone who has heard tires screeching behind me, and having a fraction of a second to dump the clutch, to then see a SUV slide through at 50mph were I was just sitting.... I keep my bike in gear and watch the rear view until I see someone come to a stop behind me. | ||
| Mountainstorm |
If the rotor bolts are stretch bolt they sure have a low torque value (as compared to say ARP head bolts). Plus the only way to mount a tire is to remove them. And the dealer never replaces them with new bolts after a tire change...so I have to call that into question. Not saying they are not consumable, still trying to understand when and why they should be replaced. | ||
| Eweaver |
Mountain, you do not have to remove the rotor to do a tire change. Maybe I am misunderstanding your post. | ||
| Ron_luning |
I change my own tires and don't have to remove the rotor, but I'm using a manual tire changer (No-Mar). Even the powered machines designed for motorcycle wheels that I've seen don't put anything into that area where the rotor is. What is your dealer using to change tires? | ||
| D_adams |
There are two notches in the back of the caliper that line up with the spokes on the wheel to allow removal without taking off the rotor. Always tape the wheel to keep from scratching it with the caliper though. Painters tape will work. | ||
| Scottorious |
hey ron what are you using to balance your tires? I would like to change my own as i can see a nice savings but wonder about balancing |
