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Smadd
| | Posted on Sunday, June 22, 2003 - 05:22 pm: | 
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Thanks, Blake! I'll stick with the long one, then. Upon describing my lifter "bleed down" situation (very rare, though)while riding with a warm engine,he suggested my oil pressure is a tad low. Won't worry about it though... the motor still runs strong. Thanks again.
Steve |
Blake
| | Posted on Thursday, July 03, 2003 - 03:14 pm: |
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An interesting commentary on viscosity and its measurement...
Issue Focus: Oil Viscosity
TIP #1
Classification according to viscosity is the most prevalent method of describing oils, and the most common classification systems are those of the SAE, AGMA, and ISO. Each organization uses a different kinematic viscosity range numbering system. For example: SAE 30 or ISO 32
TIP #2
Should viscosity be measured and trended at 40 degrees C or 100 degrees C? Consider the following for each:
Advantages at 40 degrees C
Best for early detection of oil oxidation and thermal failure (e.g., volatility).
Best for detecting viscosity influence of water, fuel and refrigerant contamination.
Best for detecting wrong oil.
Best for low-cost field monitoring of used oils.
Advantages at 100 degrees C
Best for detecting VI improver sheardown.
Best for high operating temperature machines.
Advantages of using both
Best for identifying changes in viscosity index.
Best for applications where multiple objectives are in place.
TIP #3
SSU, SUS and SUV are all ways of expressing viscosity in Saybolt Universal Seconds and there is no difference between them.
TIP #4
A multi-viscosity oil, such as 10W-30, means that the oil will flow and pour like a 10W-weight oil at very low temperatures yet maintain viscosity similar to a 30 at operating temperatures because of the oil's naturally high or additive improved viscosity index.
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Prof_stack
| | Posted on Sunday, July 06, 2003 - 12:40 am: |
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Blake, thanks for the great charts above!
Question for the oil x-spurts: ![:]](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/clipart/proud.gif)
Anyone have any experience with Klotz 80W/90 "Synthetic gear and chain lube for Sportsters"? They're out of Ft. Wayne, IN.
I changed out the syn3 in my XB9S and put in a quart of the Klotz ($11) on recommendation from a Firebolt rider who works at a local dealership. A 60 mile ride seemed to indicate that the Klotz was no better than the syn3 and perhaps worse according to the feedback I was getting while shifting. I thought it would be the other way around.
Thanks for any input!
Prof
(now with 3,050 miles on the XB) |
Prof_stack
| | Posted on Sunday, July 06, 2003 - 10:49 pm: |
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FWIW, I changed oil at 3k, replacing the syn3 with Mobil-1 15W/50 (tri-synthetic). Seat of the pants evaluation: the motor seems to run a little cooler with the cooling fan staying on for less time under similar conditions.
I'd like to see the HD syn3 get evaluated with the other contenders, much like Motorcycle Consumer News did last year. |
Acmemfg
| | Posted on Saturday, July 26, 2003 - 07:20 am: |
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Any theories why a 2000 S3T would use almost 4 qts. of oil in 2900 miles (yes, they were high speed miles-some extended Interstate work included). Leakdown test shows 150/146 front and rear cylinders. No indication of oil migration to the primary cavity. Only a wee bit of oil in the airbox (Kuryakyn Pro Hypercharger), plugs are OK, basically a stock motor (race ECM and V&H muffler only significant modifications) always have used H-D 20w50..bike has 6400 miles on it. Local dealer is baffled, so am I. Any ideas?? |
Littledog1
| | Posted on Saturday, July 26, 2003 - 08:38 am: |
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Tim,
I bet you have a valve guide seal gone. My 1998 S-1 (must have been a Monday bike...)came WITHOUT any guide seals. Ran fine, no smoke, plugs looked good, but used a quart in the first 400 miles, and another quart at 700 miles (after the 500 mile oil change). Took it back, they tore it down, de-carboned the heads and put on the valve guide seals and everything's been fine since then. One way to check would be to shine alight into the spark plug hole, the cylinder with the bad seal will have a big carbon buildup.
Mickey |
Aaron
| | Posted on Saturday, July 26, 2003 - 08:59 am: |
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If they got a 150/146 result, they were running a compression test, not a leak-down test. |
Buellistic
| | Posted on Saturday, July 26, 2003 - 09:10 am: |
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Make sure you request SEAL,valve P/N 18232-93R as they are much better than the P/N 18001-83B...
In buelling
LaFayette |
Aaron
| | Posted on Saturday, July 26, 2003 - 10:16 am: |
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Or buy a good seal from the aftermarket 
Seriously, I've seen more failed OEM seals than I can count. |
Sarodude
| | Posted on Saturday, July 26, 2003 - 01:26 pm: |
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OK - so what's a good valve guide seal? 
-Saro |
Tavs
| | Posted on Sunday, July 27, 2003 - 08:57 pm: |
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Guys: I'm going to put a cooler on my bike; I'm going to source a cooler that's not one of the high dollar kits out there, so I have a general question about the lines: I'm going to get the flow to the cooler out of the line that feeds into the case at the front near the pressure sender; It seems really straightforward, but I wanted to ask if there is anything that I should be aware of. any problems with this line of thinking? Thanks in advance. |
Ara
| | Posted on Monday, July 28, 2003 - 11:25 am: |
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Tavs, before you do all that look into the Billet Cool. It just screws inbetween the oil filter mounting plate and the filter. No hoses. I've run mine since 1998 and I've found it to be effective and trouble free. |
Tavs
| | Posted on Monday, July 28, 2003 - 03:02 pm: |
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Ara: I appreciate the heads up, but they're a bit out of my price range. I'm looking to source a cooler from some other bike and simply run te lines; It looks to be pretty easy, but thought I'd check before I start unscrewing stuff. |
Cowtown
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 29, 2003 - 11:29 am: |
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Was going to buy a Fram HP1 Racing Filter last night until I saw it was orange. Does anyone know of a large capacity filter that's black. Don't want to bother with painting, will just stay with the HD filter if there are no black filters available. |
Ara
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 29, 2003 - 12:56 pm: |
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Cowtown, the Bosch filters are black and are of higher quality than Fram. I would recommend the Mobil 1 filters. They're medium grey but they're the finest filter on the consumer market. |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 29, 2003 - 01:06 pm: |
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I use the Bosch filters, they work great and look fantastic. All black with a small red sticker. I get them at Autozone. |
Blasterd
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 29, 2003 - 01:07 pm: |
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Ara,
Do you have a cross refrence # for the Mobil 1 filter for a 2000 M2?
Ken
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Rattler
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 29, 2003 - 01:20 pm: |
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Viton type valve guide seals are some of the best IMO.
Dale A.
LSR#1012 |
Ara
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 29, 2003 - 03:31 pm: |
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Blasterd, Not immediately, but it's an easy cross reference. Look up what the Mobil 1 equivalent is of the Motorcraft FL-1A filter. That's the big one. I use a Billet Cool oil cooler and don't want my filter sticking that far out to the side, so I use the Mobil 1 equivalent of the Motorcraft FL-300A filter - it's still quite a bit larger than the H-D filters. Here's a comparison: Feel the heft of the Mobil 1 filter vs any other equivalent filter. Even the can itself is of higher quality. The Mobil 1 filters use a synthetic filter medium that's much more reliable than paper filter elements, has more pleats - more filter surface area, and other high quality internal parts and construction. They're expensive, but I think they're an exceptional value because of the quality. |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 29, 2003 - 04:17 pm: |
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I had three old filters sitting in my garage, and just for kicks compared them.
Ford FL-1A equiv (think it goes on a mustang GT)... perfect fit, great big.
95 Saturn SC2 filter... perfect fit, about same size as stock filter.
96 Ford Windstar... perfect fit, about same diameter as sportster filter, but as long as the FL-1A filter. Only good part of that POS windstar.
2003 Toyota Sienna. Perfect fit, same size as Saturn and Sportster filter. My response to my failed attempt to buy an american minivan and the resulting hemmorage of time and money.
So frankly, I think you might have a harder time finding a filter that would *not* fit then finding one that will. Buy one that looks like it will look cool.
I think the Bosch uses a semi-synthetic media. They "look" to be between the general brands and the Mobil 1's in terms of quality. Worth considering if you want a little better quality but think dropping $7 to $9 on an oil filter for only 3000 miles is a bit of overkill. And they look great on the bike, and as I recall run about $4 or so.
The stock filter that came on my 2003 sienna was a Denso I think (marked Toyota, but Denso hidden down there somewhere), and also looked to be made incredibly well, perhaps on par with the Mobil 1. Don't know what the local toyota dealer charges for them. As I recall it was white though.
Whatever filter you use, I would strap it down somehow. No really, I mean it. It hardly ever spins off while you are strafing the twisties on river road and soaks entire right side of you and the bike. On a friday afternoon. At 4:30. On a 2000 Cyclone. To a guy named Bill. Hardly ever.
Bill |
Cowtown
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 30, 2003 - 12:14 pm: |
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Purchased a Mobil 1 filter last night to see how medium grey would look on my bike. The filter diameter is 3-5/8" while the filter mounting base is 3". I realize it's the filter gasket measurement that matters, but is it alright to have that extra filter diameter sticking out? |
Tavs
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 30, 2003 - 04:34 pm: |
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Ara: What's the part number for the bosch filter? Thanks. |
Ara
| | Posted on Monday, August 04, 2003 - 10:21 am: |
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Tavs, I don't know. I use the Mobil 1. It's an easy cross reference. Just find any Ford vehicle of any year that uses a Motorcraft FL-1A and see what Bosch filter is equivalent. If you want the 3/4 size filter, look do the same for Motorcraft FL-300A. Best bet is Auto Zone. |
Fgoodspeed
| | Posted on Thursday, August 21, 2003 - 11:39 am: |
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Hey all, this might sound like a trivial question but I'm still learning a lot about the mechanics and maintenance of my bike.
The question(s): How do I change the oil in my crankcase? How much should I add back to it?
I'm sure this is a fairly simple procedure but i would like professional advice before i go unscrewing stuff and taking stuff off.
Thanks in advance
Fred |
Mikej
| | Posted on Thursday, August 21, 2003 - 11:47 am: |
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quote:Bike Model: Buell S1 Lightning
Model Year: 1998
Run your bike to warm up the oil a little and ensure most of it is pumped out of the engine and back into the oil tank.
There should be a rubber hose along the foreward left side of your swingarm with a metal or plastic plug in it.
Remove the plug and your oil should flow out.
Replace the plug and refill to the bottom mark on the oil dipstick.
Run the engine for a bit to circulate the oil, then shut if off the complete the oil filling to around the middle between the high and low marks on the dipstick. Some bikes like it lower, few like it higher.
This process helps to avoid overfilling, and assumes you are not also changing the oil filter. If you are also changing the oil filter (a good idea) remember to add around 4 ounces of oil to the new filter before installing it. Breadsacks and tinfoil and other methods help to reduce the mess when removing the old filter.
If by "crankcase" you meant the tranny and primary lube that process is different. |
Fgoodspeed
| | Posted on Thursday, August 21, 2003 - 12:56 pm: |
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Mikej
Actually, I suppose my message post was worded wrong. I was referring to changing the tranny and primary lube. Sorry about that.
Fred |
Mikej
| | Posted on Thursday, August 21, 2003 - 01:27 pm: |
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Okay. There is a drain plug on the bottom of the primary cover that is usually hard to get to due to the muffler. The stock muffler on my M2 has a slight indent on top of the muffler body that is barely big enough to get the drain bolt out, and it takes a spatula to get it back in.
There are two easy ways to drain the primary:
1. Drop the muffler and drain.
1a. Leave the muffler and wrap it in foil, then with a skinny wrench and skinny fingers remove the drain plug.
2. Remove the clutch inspection cover and drain the primary with a siphon hose.
For refilling the primary/trans lube the bike should be sitting level (best to have someone hold it or use a service stand) and bring the fluid level up to the bottom of the clutch spring (looks like a plate). It takes less than a full quart, there are pics someplace on the site here showing this. You refill through the opened clutch inspection cover (this is the larger cover on the primary case, the smaller two-screw cover is for primary chain inspection and adjustment measurement).
This is a good time to check your primary chain tension. And if it hasn't already been done upgrade the tensioner assembly to the newer thicker style shoe plate. |
Fgoodspeed
| | Posted on Thursday, August 21, 2003 - 02:51 pm: |
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Alrighty, sweet info. Thanks a million, MikeJ!
Fred |
Mikej
| | Posted on Thursday, August 21, 2003 - 02:56 pm: |
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No problem. Others may have other input as well.
Removing the drain plug will allow you to remove any metal filings that have attached to the magnet in it, and don't be surprised at the amount of filings you may find. I'm comfortable with just siphoning and then once a year pull the plug to clean any metal shavings from the magnet. |
Ara
| | Posted on Friday, August 22, 2003 - 09:24 am: |
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You will find that if you drain the primary with the bike leaning on the sidestand, you won't get all of the old gear lube out. If you let 'er drain on a swingarm stand, or just hold 'er verticle after draining on the sidestand, you'll get it all. |
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