Author |
Message |
Steve899
| Posted on Tuesday, May 25, 2010 - 12:33 am: |
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Any help getting in please |
Barker
| Posted on Tuesday, May 25, 2010 - 12:42 am: |
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IIRC: 1. turn scoot key to "off" 2. hold mode and toggle buttons on cluster 3. turn scoot key to "on" while holding buttons. (Message edited by barker on May 25, 2010) |
Froggy
| Posted on Tuesday, May 25, 2010 - 12:48 am: |
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It is in the service manual too. |
Steve899
| Posted on Tuesday, May 25, 2010 - 12:50 am: |
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thanks Barker!! Question are Barker from You Tube? |
Steve899
| Posted on Tuesday, May 25, 2010 - 12:51 am: |
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Hey Froggy , I got the parts , service , electrical manuals coming next week. |
Barker
| Posted on Tuesday, May 25, 2010 - 07:55 am: |
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you can find me on them internets at: http://www.youtube.com/barkerbox |
Zac4mac
| Posted on Wednesday, May 26, 2010 - 06:28 am: |
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You can also go into DM in PARK. Everything is the same, but the headlights don't come on, just the taillight. Stock lights pull 6 or 7 Amps and will drain your battery if you stay in it for long. You can use the 2 modes as a load test for the battery - Watch how fast the voltage drops in RUN vs. PARK Z |
Al_lighton
| Posted on Wednesday, May 26, 2010 - 09:59 am: |
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It won't stay in diagnostic mode if the bike is moving. At the exhaust shootout, we needed to get the AFVs to 100 to run the tests, and there is currently no tool outside of the Digital Tech to reset the FRONT AFV. We disconnected the speedo sensor (triangular connector under the seat), put it in diagnostic mode, and was able to "drive" the bike (on the dyno) until the AFV hit 100 (99 actually, close enough) and then kill it and disconnect the O2 sensors so it couldn't change. Al |
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