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Conchop
| | Posted on Saturday, May 22, 2010 - 10:28 am: | 
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I have a real problem with the vibes. I have tamed them but I am still not pleased with having to adjust my riding to fit within the motors sweet spots. 25 to 3k = vibration that is like an old lawnmower. Its a real killjoy. I live in a real rural area and asides from the bike being over geared for this area, the idea of holding 3 to 45 K RPM makes for a busy green - lane ride.
Here are a few things I've tried to do. It helps, but it is their cumulative effects that seem to have real impact.
Install a thin washer between the front isolator and the frame. It keeps the metal part of the frame from tapping the foam pad on the frame neck. The thinner the better. This can also stress the rubber in the isolator so the buzz can be different. Experiment with it. I'm too thick at the moment.
Check the primary chain tension. Go by the book.
Pull off the tank cover and the plastic pan that mounts the air filter. Look for rub and scuff marks. The rear hiem joints and the ground straps can rub.
Check the plastic seat pan for scuff marks from the rear jug rockerbox. It can bang on the seat causing undue vibes. Cut the plastic back, file the rockerbox a little .
Get HVMP handlebar weights and fill the handlebars with silicon caulk - gorilla snot.
Check the torque of the spark plugs and insure the plug boots completely cover the the plug. This can cause an erratic miss at cruise but not so much under open throttle.
The front isolator sucks, as do the bearings. The vibration is unacceptable. Just try to get it as good as you can. It can be made better. |
Natexlh1000
| | Posted on Saturday, May 22, 2010 - 11:06 am: |
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That's odd.
My 2008 runs smoothly at 2.5K to 2.5K
I suggest looking for some issue.
Perhaps the horn buzzing against the inside of the flyscreen or something under the airbox?
Look for signs of chafing. |
Hughlysses
| | Posted on Saturday, May 22, 2010 - 12:08 pm: |
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I pretty much agree with Nate; depending on the gear chosen, my 07 runs smoothly at 2.5 to 3k RPM. This definitely got better as the bike accumulated miles; Ogre's near-new 2010 will get better too.
Conchop- "The vibration is unacceptable"? Dude, that's just a fact of the physics of a single crank pin 45 degree V-twin. They can tune the isolators to minimize the vibration within a range of RPM, but there are limits to what can be done. The HD big twins are said to be smoothest at idle but make more vibes at high RPMs. The Buells, being intended to be ridden like performance motorcycles, have their isolators tuned to minimize vibration at running RPMs, and they work well for that. |
Froggy
| | Posted on Saturday, May 22, 2010 - 01:56 pm: |
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And people wonder why I shut my bike off instead of idling at lights and stop signs. |
Conchop
| | Posted on Sunday, May 23, 2010 - 10:25 pm: |
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Its the roads. You will wind up behind some Korean econo box that is wallowing its way through the country. Gotta slow down. When she gets between the bad RPM's she goes to bad lawn mower time. Keep her piped up, it is better. BUT still unacceptable. We have some of the best riding in the world around here but it is ridiculous to have to put up with this much buzz at low speed.
Hugh and Nate - I envy you guys. I have been under the airbox and behind the screen. Nothing has been left to chance for a rub. Always been like this.
Here is a clue for the diagnosticians in the group. When the bike has been freshly started, or shut down for a fan cycle, it is acceptably smooth for a short time. I think the AFV goes too lean. Then she gets hot and buzzy. This is my only problem.
When we have some room to romp - she goes like all hell. The most fun thing I've ever been on. But is the road goes slow, she turns on the buzz. Makes green - laning in the outback too uncomfortable. |
Tootal
| | Posted on Monday, May 24, 2010 - 10:56 am: |
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Something I haven't seen mentioned yet is checking for an intake leak. A small leak can really cause problems at lower rpm's. The Harley/Buell intake seals are a lousy design IMO. I fought a whole Summer trying to get mine to seal. Finally I got it using some James gasket seals. You can pull the scoops off and see the intake/throttle body flanges. With the bike running spray some WD-40 around the seals and listen for any change in rpm. Any change up or down means you have a leak. This needs to always be done first before doing any tuning or troubleshooting. Since your sealing on a compound angle any difference in where the alignment dowels on the cylinder and heads are located can cause a misalignment. Not all engines are created equal. My old 91 Harley had a 3/8" hole in the cylinder and a 1/4" pin in the cases!! NO SLOP THERE! Bottom line, this is where you start troubleshooting. I'm glad your dealer was helpful, good to hear. |
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