| Author | Message | ||
     Avalaugh |
I have recently installed the Ebr 5mm finned brake disc a using the upgrade mounting kit. Im having problems with the caliper binding ? Have pumped pistons right out (without them popping out) and cleaned them, they push in freely with my thumb. The pads are EBC ones and are brand new. The disc doesn't float like the standard item, am i doing something wrong ? The wheel moves with a little effort but surly it should spin freely, have ridden the bike gently for about 50 miles but its still the same. (Message edited by Avalaugh on May 22, 2010) | ||
| 1324 |
I have the exact same setup as you and I've not experienced any binding. How did you assemble the new hardware (what order)? Make sure the hardware isn't overtorqued (rotor still floats, but it's 'different' now). If that is installed correctly, I'd look at the caliper pistons to see if some are dragging and not retracting. Also, check your master cylinder to make sure you don't have too much fluid in there. | ||
| Avalaugh |
Same order as this picture, the disc sits with the square shaped steel bits, and they are all fitted the correct way round too.  I think its a bit strange that the copper washer sits between the disc and the wheel, what does it do ? There is not too much fluid in the master cylinder, torqued using a torque wrench as where all the bolts, have a workshop manual. (Message edited by Avalaugh on May 22, 2010) | ||
| Avc8130 |
The copper washer acts as a heat sink to transfer heat from the rotor to the wheel. ac | ||
| 1324 |
AC is right about the copper... Did you torque them in a star-pattern? Like you would for a 6 lug pattern wheel: http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/techpage.jsp?t echid=107 Also, are your Belleville washers all in the same orientation? They should all be going in the same direction, specifically the 'cone' facing up (the underside of the bolt head). See picture in upper right corner of page via this link: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Belleville_washer My Erik Buell Racing instructions made no mention of orientation, but if you look closely, the OD of the spring is a bit larger than bolt head. If you flipped the spring, you wouldn't get the full spring rate as the spring isn't compressed as much as it is in the reverse orientation. This might be too nit-picky, but then again I don't know how critical the design is. I can only give you my experiences...YMMV. The only other thing I've noticed while taking my stuff apart that might impact you is way the pads sit in the caliper. When you put the pads in place and thread the retaining pin back in the caliper, I found it very easy to allow the pin to •••• the pads so that they were no longer parallel. I haven't tried to reinstall the caliper on the rotor when they were like this, so I'm not sure if the rotor will force the pads back into the correct position. I don't see why it shouldn't, but it might not - hence my procedure. So, when I change the pads, I position the caliper so I can put the outside pad in place and then push the retaining pin through the outside pad only. Once the pin is in place, I install the inside pad and slowly slide the pin in further to tighten it down. Doing both pads at the same time always cocked them on me. Again, this all sounds a bit like black magic since the manual mentions none of this, but this is way I've got my system down. Hopefully it works for you. If none of this works, the only other thing I can think of is a bent rotor or wheel. Do you have a dial indicator to measure runout? If not, does the wheel turn with continuous effort or does it 'grab'...as in variable amounts of force required to turn it? | ||
| White79bu |
I just installed my rotor and it dosen't feel like it floats. It feels pretty solid. I torqued it down just like the book says to. I may go out and loosen it up and retighten everything again. Also the brakes don't feel like they bite like they used too. | ||
| Avalaugh |
1324 - yes to all the above, the wheel is fine as had no trouble with the old set-up binding. The wheel turns with continuous effort no change required. Its not really bad just dont think its right. Have been out this morning for about 70 miles and brakes all work fine, if on a slight gradiant the bike will roll freely and takes very little effort to push on a level surface. With front wheel in the air i can spin the wheel half a turn or so and then it stops. White79bu - i found this too but it gets better as pads bed in, pulled up hard this morning from about 80mph and it certainly stops better now. Dont loosen the bolts unless its absolutly neccessary as they are only meant to be used once, think they may be stretch bolts ? | ||
| Jdugger |
The rotor may feel solid, but it still has some movement at braking pressures. Remember that's tens of thousands of pounds (or so I'm guessing), not just what you put on with your hand. Also, it won't necessarily hurt if there's little to no apparent float. On my 16.5 front wheel, there's not enough space for the new mounting hardware. Even the steel bolts have to be turned down a few .010s. On that set up, I use a copper D washer between the wheel and rotor that's been machined to fit, and a SS washer between the Ti rotor bolt and rotor itself on the top side. Works well at track speeds. | ||
| White79bu |
Well I loosened it up just a small amount and retorqued everything. I don't think it will hurt the bolts but I am by no means an expert. The wheel moves alittle better but that was never really a problem. I think I do need a new set of pads. I can already feel a small groove in the rotor. They looked to be in good shape but they have seen 6 track days and a few thousand miles. I am going to switch from the Erik Buell Racing pads to the EBC extreme pads to try and save alittle money. | ||
| 1324 |
The beauty of the Erik Buell Racing hardware is that it more tightly constrains the rotor, which is really nice when you're installing the rotor. The slots in the wheels and the little silver top hats allow for the rotor to grow radially. The belleville washers allow the rotor to grow and float axially. those who have installed rotors with both hardware setups know firsthand how much easier the new hardware is to install. A minor perk if you ask me. Also, the bolts are not torque to yield, so no worries there. There is some thread compound, but you'll be fine. Mine have been retorqued numerous times. Replace the bolts if they become damaged or discolored. Yes, I've spoken with Erik Buell Racing to confirm this. | ||
| Avalaugh |
Great info guys, thanks. Do you think this slight binding will cause a problem or just go after a few hundred miles ? | ||
| 1324 |
Hard to say without seeing it. My rotor doesn't bind, and appears to spin as freely as it did back when everything was original. Use your judgment, but be careful. Take it to someone if you can't be sure as brakes are nothing to mess with. Good luck. |
