| Author | Message | ||
     Rwven |
New disk is nice and smooth. Like Arctic KTM stated there is a bit more take-up in the lever now but with the EBC HH pads there is a good progressive feel once braking starts. The Erik Buell Racing mounting kit pretty much eliminates any floating in the disk, it feels solidly mounted as far as moving it by hand. There may be some motion allowed by the Belleville washers though. (Message edited by rwven on May 10, 2010) | ||
| Catalan42 |
Hi - No debris I could see, nor wet/oily. Could have been some rough pavement contributing to it, but I can usually see that coming. It was sunny and cool (50's) at the time. Based on the feel, I thought for sure something was either coming apart or was tangled between the tire/spokes & forks/caliper. Weird. Since I can't reproduce it, I'll just chock it up to pavement/old tire combo. Getting new Scorpion Trails this week anyway (rear tire started showing cords on the trip home!). | ||
| Brakes2late |
Installed my Erik Buell Racing rotor this weekend. Not much time to ride but so far the pulsing is completely gone. Still on the OEM pads for now. I can't believe how immune I got to the how bad the pulsing actually was! Now it's smooth as silk...One curious thing though, I noticed after my first few stops that only the inner and out edges of the pads are contacting the rotor.  | ||
| Reepicheep |
Beat you by one Jumpin Joules, so I get mine first.  | ||
| Arcticktm |
Brakes2Late, and anyone else that put son the Erik Buell Racing 6mm rotor - Have any of you noticed extra travel in the lever like I reported (and Rwven)? I do plan to re-bleed the front brakes to make sure, but I am doubtful that I got air in the system that was not there before. Great feel once they bite, though. | ||
| Brakes2late |
Actually my travel seems just slightly shorter. I did not remove my brake pads. I just slid the caliper off and back on using the same pads over again. | ||
| Rwven |
Brakes2late, Did you use the Erik Buell Racing installation hardware also? It doesn't look like it but it might just be the picture. | ||
| Brakes2late |
Yeah, but "reused" is more like it. I had tried the kit a few weeks ago to see if it helped with the pulsing but no real improvement. I used loctite on the threads since they had already been in and out once... | ||
| Reepicheep |
Don't see how it could increase lever travel with a thicker rotor, unless it was warped (or mounted warped)... I guess you could use a simple runout gauge to check... | ||
| Firstbatch |
I'm sure everyone has seen the Staples TV commerical..."Thats a Low Price"....gets your attention but geez is that guy loud. Just came back from a test ride after replacing the rotor and new HH pads makes me think of that goofy guy.....WOW THESE ARE SOME SERIOUS GOOD BRAKES..... I too had forgotten the good feeling and had put up with the pulsing for far to long. Did all the re-dressing of the rotor with the garnett paper stuff with some short lived improvement but after I saw the thread ARTICKTM started I gave in and bought the 6mm Erik Buell Racing rotor and new mounting hardware and a set of HH pads. Had run the Lyndall Golds for about 10k. Anyway just very thrilled to have great, great brake feel back again. Hope this last for a long time. Brakes2late...looks like you may have to wait for the old pads to bed in fully or just bite the bullet and get a new set. When I looked at my rotor after the run in of 100 miles they are consistent across the rotor. I thought about keeping my Lyndalls but for $40 it was not worth it to have the potential of old pads with plenty of wear left messing up a new set up. On the lever travel Articktm, I think you have to re-bleed. Small air bubbles tend to travel up and can get trapped at the banjo bolt and and are tough to get out with typical gravity bleeding procedures. Had that issue with many motos over the years and the Uly. I have always used the reverse procedure as shown in this link with great results and the lever has a firm feel without excessive free travel. Easy enough to try. http://www.moccsplace.com/images/brakes/bleeder/bl eeder.htm | ||
| Catalan42 |
Hi - I just replaced my stock front pads (worn out after only 5K miles!) on my 06 Uly last week with nice HH pads. The new ones have about TWICE the friction of the stockers..... very nice! | ||
| Reepicheep |
Another tip... bleed brakes, then put a velcro strap overnight holding the lever in really tight. Next morning, let it "pop" out to try and knock the bubbles up and out. And maybe rebleed. Repeat 4 or 5 times, it will get better each time. I think it works because the pressure makes the bubbles smaller, which helps them work their way out of traps. And "popping" the lever out is like opening the top of a pop bottle really quickly, making them break free and float up. | ||
| Firstbatch |
10-4 on that tip Reep....that is a proven method as well to get those pesky micro bubbles to come out of hiding  | ||
| Hughlysses |
Got my new Erik Buell Racing 6mm disk and mounting hardware tonight. Now I have to decide if I'm gonna stick with my used Lyndal pads (they should be good for a few thousand miles) or go ahead and switch to the EBC HH pads. | ||
| Firstbatch |
Hugh my votes for going for the EBC HH you will absolutely love the set up. I jumped up this morning and went for another ride and this new brake set up is a 10++++......  ,switching from Lyndalls to the HH is IMHO a good portion of the renewed feeling and performance. | ||
| Rwven |
I didn't do anything that would allow air into the braking system, and the lever is not spongy like it would be if there was air in the system. There is just a bit more pre-travel in the brake lever than there was with the old disk. I'm attributing it to the pads not being bedded in fully to the disk. It's mot "bad" it's just noticeable. | ||
| Metaldude |
What are the EBC HH pads? Where are they available? Thanks! | ||
| Hughlysses |
I ordered a set of EBC HH pads from American Sport Bike tonight. | ||
| Nevrenuf |
if i just change out to the hh pads. anyone think i'll still have to change out the rotor. | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
anyone think i'll still have to change out the rotor no, I think you will be good to go. I just put a "old" pulsing rotor back on the front of my Uly after I cleaned it with a drill and striping pad. The pulse is gone. | ||
| Firstbatch |
Wolf, what pads are you using? I started with stock then went to Lyndall Golds and was happy with the set up for about 10k miles...thent he pulsing got to be real annoying, did the rotor clean up and got short term relief then back to pulsing. Makes me thing the Golds ultimately were breaking down as they wore and were "depositing" uneven layers of material to the rotor. The Golds still had plenty of wear left. I would have liked to just switch pads to the HH with the old rotor an see what would have happened but I chickened out and did rotor, mounting bolts and pads. Mucho happy with the results but lighter in the pocket by $165 buckaroos. May just be the placebo effect but the HH sure seem to provide better feel and more linear and controlled brake modulation then the Golds.....but that is a pretty subjective comparison. | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
I'm using The Golds for now. I have a set of race pads that will go on next if the pulsing comes back. | ||
| Tocino |
then put a velcro strap overnight holding the lever in really tight. Next morning, let it "pop" out to try and knock the bubbles up and out Ditto on this, especially after changing fluid - I use a couple of zip ties to force the front break on. Every so often I tap the various brake components to try and dislodge bubbles. Next morning (or whenever) I just cut the ties off. Works really well. | ||
| Xb12xmike |
I think my mounts get stuck. When I tried to clean my old rotor (mounted) I used brake cleaner and that worked for a while. Then next time it pulsed, I thought I'd spray the mounts with WD,..that worked too. (for a while) 3rd time I just used Simple green and that worked as well...for a while. Now I have a fairly new rotor I got under warranty and it still pulsed after a while, I just use simple green on the mounts and while reversing down my parking spot to tun around, I quick-clip the front brake going in reverse to help loosen any stuck mounts. Seems to work sometimes. I may opt for a 6mm soon as well. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I didn't have time to put on the new Erik Buell Racing rotor yet, but I had time to drop the runout gauge on the existing rotor (still on wheel and still on bike). It was pretty bad... at least .010" if I was using my (new to me) gauge correctly (which I think I was). I'm guessing that's out of spec (or at least at the bad end of in spec). So I think that is my real root problem. I think the old mounting system on the Uly bind. This binding makes them act like they are warped, which drags the pads. Dragging the pads heats up everything even when you aren't braking, and puts down deposits on the rotor, and the whole thing becomes a kind of death spiral. The deposits are pretty easy to clean up.... Do 4 or 5 successive hard stops from 50 mph to 10 mph (don't come to a stop) (or fewer if your brakes are already fading before then, which they probably will be). Then keep riding long enough for everything to cool down before touching the front brake again. But that doesn't help the binding and skewed rotor. I just got the new rotor and mounts from Erik Buell Racing, which with better pads will solve the problem. But if you want to fix it "on the cheap", I bet the new Erik Buell Racing mounting system is the one thing you can buy that "fixes" it the most. Take off the rotor, resurface it, clean it and the mounts, use the new Erik Buell Racing mounting setup, and put it back together. Of course, if you are going to go that far into it, why not just get that nice new 6mm rotor... that's what, 20% more material? Seems reasonable for a Uly, which will be seeing a lot more loaded two up riding then other XB's. The non Uly's ridden one up can probably do fine with the stock rotors (my 9sx has been fine with stock rotors and pads for 30k miles, including two track days). I'll see what the runout is after I mount the new rotor. | ||
| Farnsracin |
Any one have the latest part # for the uly drive belt and stock front sprocket Thanks | ||
| Desmo900 |
I installed Erik Buell Racing rotor, the new mounting bolts and washers with the 804 HH pads. Big big difference in brake power and very smooth. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Reepicheep- I know a Badwebber who's had several different XB's (although I believe he's currently Buell-less). He claimed that if you changed the disk mounting hardware every year or so, he found it would prevent these problems. That would seem to back up your idea that the rotor binds in the rotor causing these problems. I'm kind of hoping the new Erik Buell Racing mounting hardware will work better in this regard. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Well, the new Erik Buell Racing rotor and mounting kit will do nice two up stoppies on a Uly, even with the Lyndall Golds.  Been a week now and no signs of any pulsing, I love the rotor and mounting kit. It makes me want to get the Erik Buell Racing ECM.  I measured the run out with the stock rotor and mounting hardware, and the Erik Buell Racing rotor and mounting hardware. The Erik Buell Racing setup was half (.005 instead of .010). | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
Can you post a pic of the new install kit installed? |
