Author |
Message |
Mikef5000
| Posted on Tuesday, May 04, 2010 - 11:20 am: |
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After 2 coats of POR15 (applied per instructions, following the 3 step process), and 2 coats of Exhaust system paint, it only took a month before the mufflers rusting again. So what now? Powder-coat? Ceramic-coat? Drop-kick it into submission? |
No_rice
| Posted on Tuesday, May 04, 2010 - 11:30 am: |
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ride it? |
No_rice
| Posted on Tuesday, May 04, 2010 - 11:34 am: |
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put on something besides stock? |
Towpro
| Posted on Tuesday, May 04, 2010 - 12:45 pm: |
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When I get around to it, I have this stuff I bought from Eastwood around 15 years ago called Corroless. I bought it to paint the inside of holes I drilled in my pickup truck frame to mount my 5th wheel hitch. I have used it other places, absolutely prevents rust. It is rated for 400 deg. (is that enough?) Here is a review off the eastwood site. "I've used rust preventative paint for over 50 years. Starting with Zinc Chromate primer and others when Zinc Chromate disappered. Tried Extend Rust Converter with poor results. Tried POR-10 but it failed due to rust creep. Switched to Corroless Primer which is now Rust Encapsulator and find it is the best. I remove loose rust, wire brush and spray with excellent results. I've applied body filler over areas that have received two coats of Rust Ecapsulator with good results." http://www.eastwood.com/rust-encapsulator.html |
Bzrider
| Posted on Tuesday, May 04, 2010 - 12:49 pm: |
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its going to get muddy anyway |
Sprintex
| Posted on Tuesday, May 04, 2010 - 03:40 pm: |
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I used East Woods Rust Encapsulator on the on rust on my Rust-10 (S-10 PU) and my basement bulkhead and the rust came back after a couple of years. So not very impressed, though East Wood generally sells good products. |
Pso
| Posted on Tuesday, May 04, 2010 - 04:37 pm: |
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I just use B-B-Q paint from Ace hardware. the very high temp stuff. Works ok for abouot 1 and 1/2 years. then just use a sponge paint brush and do it again. doesn't smell great the first two times you ride it but seems to hold well. Someone used anti-sieze on his and posted pics several years back. I do not know how well it held up. |
Wheelybueller
| Posted on Tuesday, May 04, 2010 - 07:57 pm: |
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Rust adds character.
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Towpro
| Posted on Tuesday, May 04, 2010 - 08:24 pm: |
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I need to look for a "how to" on doing the job. I will wait until I get back from my 1000 mile ride in June. I bet there will be plenty of stone chips on it after the ride. I will volunteer to try the Eastwood product. the stuff I have now is red, so I will buy a fresh batch of black. I figure if it is a job I need to do every winter it will give me something to do during the dark months. Do I pull the muffler? any tricks for that? Do I need any parts? I better order them now if I want them by next fall |
Rr_eater
| Posted on Tuesday, May 04, 2010 - 09:36 pm: |
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100-150 bucks is about the norm for any place to ceramic coat it. However, ceramic coating will chip with road strikes from rocks and gravel over time as well, and you are back to square one. I used to, every springish time frame, basically tear down my M2(back in the day)to the basics, IE bodywork off, tank off, etc. to clean everything, and at that time, I would just quick sand and repaint with hi-temp caliper paint-black, the muffler and under cariage in a few places. Would find VERY little rust overall if any, and then everything look super nice. To me it was the far cheaper alternative to coating it with something special until I bought my V/H muff, then aluminum came with its own challenges!! Ride it, its just rust, enjoy it. SS Drummer is an inviting option too!! Bruce |
Mikef5000
| Posted on Wednesday, May 05, 2010 - 12:04 am: |
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Do I pull the muffler? any tricks for that? Do I need any parts? You will want to pull the muffler. It's not too difficult. You will need a new front muffler strap. Keep the old one as a backup. You'll also need a tube of red (high temp) RTV. |
Florida_lime
| Posted on Wednesday, May 05, 2010 - 12:49 am: |
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http://www.kdfab.com/mufflerremoval.htm |
Whisperstealth
| Posted on Wednesday, May 05, 2010 - 02:13 am: |
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Okay,this sounds off the wall, but a friend and bike mechanic offered this approach: Peanut oil. As in season it like you would a cast iron skillet. Peanut oil is a natural rust preventer, can take high heat, and turns black. Scrape / brush off the rust, put a good layer of oil on it, but not so much it runs, and then go for a ride to bake it in. Or if you a have a big enough oven... Patty cake, patty cake.. Put on a couple of coats and see how it works out. It'll smell a little, but will go away. It is sound in theory. I've had cast iron skillets done this way. I would Really, Really love for someone to do this and let us know how it turns out! |
Mikef5000
| Posted on Wednesday, May 05, 2010 - 10:39 pm: |
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Curious why they recommend removing the belt tensioner in the muffler removal how-to? |
Rr_eater
| Posted on Wednesday, May 05, 2010 - 10:40 pm: |
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SUPPOSEDLY it makes getting the rear clamp nuts easier to get to. I say stick the socket through the convienient holes in the tensioner wheel itself. My .02 Bruce |
Trevd
| Posted on Thursday, May 06, 2010 - 05:54 pm: |
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I think the smell of peanut oil coming off my muffler would have me stopping at more french fry stands! |
Satori
| Posted on Thursday, May 06, 2010 - 06:29 pm: |
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Ive got a cast Iron skillet I seasoned a couple yrs ago like this. it can soak in watter and not rust. you want to get it hot enough that the oil is smoking a bit. you would need to do it at least 10-12 times, and occasionally refresh it, but I bet it would work well. |
Motorfish
| Posted on Friday, May 07, 2010 - 12:37 am: |
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Seasoning a cast iron pan takes a while, sometimes flakes, and has to be done a whole bunch of times. But a perfectly seasoned pan is a tough thing to beat. It just sounds like it would be really tough to get right, on a muffler. |
Motorbike
| Posted on Friday, May 07, 2010 - 09:14 am: |
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My wife would probably send me to the "funny farm" if she caught me rubbing peanut oil on my muffler! May be worth a try anyway. Do you think that would work on steel? I'm thinking it only works on cast iron, not sure though. Thanks. |
Motorfish
| Posted on Friday, May 07, 2010 - 08:37 pm: |
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Plus if you can "season" a muffler, it may make your next crash, over-easy! Sorry guys, I couldn`t resist. |
Tootal
| Posted on Saturday, May 08, 2010 - 11:34 am: |
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My wife would probably send me to the "funny farm" if she caught me rubbing peanut oil on my muffler! She caught you rubbing peanut oil on your what!? Is that what you call it!? |
Motorbike
| Posted on Saturday, May 08, 2010 - 11:23 pm: |
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That's right Tootal! What do you call yours and what kind of oil do you use? |
Tootal
| Posted on Sunday, May 09, 2010 - 11:45 am: |
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Whatever she decides to use that day! |
Spud
| Posted on Sunday, May 09, 2010 - 03:09 pm: |
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I have cleaned my muffler with an hd360 oil soaked rag since new and not had any rust issues as of yet. I just use a rag to clean out the oil catch pan and use it. Of course it smokes a little after but not for long. 07x with 7k miles |
Pkforbes87
| Posted on Sunday, May 09, 2010 - 07:03 pm: |
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Every time I change the oil I make a mess and let it get all over the muffler.. so far no rust |
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