Author |
Message |
5liter
| Posted on Monday, May 03, 2010 - 04:28 pm: |
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My turn for the front motor mount stud to break. I heard a crack and then felt something hit my leg. Broke the left side(as your on the bike) bolt. I was a couple miles from home when it happened. I don't know if I'm going to do it or have somebody else do it. Don't feel like working on anything right now. |
Buellistic
| Posted on Monday, May 03, 2010 - 04:43 pm: |
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Help "INFO" if you want it, just e-mail me(Ljenne73c@verizon.net) and it is yours ... |
Purpony
| Posted on Monday, May 03, 2010 - 04:43 pm: |
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how many miles on the bike? Im thinking of changing mine just for the hell of it! Hope you get it back up and running soon! good luck |
5liter
| Posted on Monday, May 03, 2010 - 04:51 pm: |
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About 50,000 miles. I've got it in the garage right now. Going to order the parts from Al at American Sport Bike. Buellistic. Message sent. |
Dannybuell
| Posted on Monday, May 03, 2010 - 08:31 pm: |
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I am not a mechanic but I'll bet if you have a toolbox and a drill you can do it. I watched my friend do it to my 96 S1 the first time and did it myself the second and third times. American Sport Bike has better bolts, I eventually figured that out too. the broken stud can usually be tapped out with a punch and a hammer start on one edge and tap toward the outside in an unscrewing direction. If you have an electric drill you can sometimes excite it out with a regular bit in reverse with some pressure. an extractor process is a small pilot hole and a reverse bit that digs into the hole while the drill is in reverse. |
Kalali
| Posted on Tuesday, May 04, 2010 - 11:14 am: |
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What did hit your leg? |
Xl1200r
| Posted on Tuesday, May 04, 2010 - 12:03 pm: |
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I went through this whole thing, but mine was broken when I picked the bike up. I didn't do the work myself only because the dealer I bought it from made goon (sort of) and paid for my local dealer to do the work. They were able to get the stud out with an easy-out, so it can be done. I also had them use the -79D isolator and it appears to be holding up well, though I only have a couple thousand miles on it since. |
5liter
| Posted on Tuesday, May 04, 2010 - 02:45 pm: |
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Kalali, The half of the bolt that broke. |
Tbolt98
| Posted on Tuesday, May 04, 2010 - 03:12 pm: |
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I did mine and it wasn't as bad as I expected. |
5liter
| Posted on Tuesday, May 04, 2010 - 06:13 pm: |
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Sounds encouraging. I'm stripping off parts right now. Got a few other things to do so I might as well do em now. |
5liter
| Posted on Monday, May 10, 2010 - 05:42 pm: |
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Something interesting. I put my breaker bar on the right isolator bolt expecting not to be able to budge it and it's unscrewing with just a little resistance. I put no heat on it at all, so I wonder if the red loctite broke down over the years. It's not broken so maybe I won't have too much trouble with the left that is broken. |
Buellistic
| Posted on Monday, May 10, 2010 - 05:58 pm: |
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"i" do not use loctite on the threads of my ISOLATOR BOLTS, only anti-size compound ... If properly TORQUED they will stay tight !!! |
Fahren
| Posted on Monday, May 10, 2010 - 07:10 pm: |
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And yes, since loctite breaks down under heat, the years will do it. I think "Auntie Seas" (the Buellistic approach) with regular checks for tightness would be preferable. |
5liter
| Posted on Monday, May 10, 2010 - 07:25 pm: |
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Auntie Seas!! Now that's funny! |
Buellistic
| Posted on Monday, May 10, 2010 - 07:27 pm: |
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Fahren, you have been paying attention ... "PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE" keeps you off the side of the road in the middle of no where, usually at 3 AM in the morning ... |
Pkforbes87
| Posted on Tuesday, May 11, 2010 - 09:16 pm: |
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anti-sieze and safety wire! Sure it takes some time to drill the bolts for wiring, and actually wiring them takes more time. Combined, it's considerably less time than getting a broken bolt out of the head |