| Author | Message | ||
     Obiewan |
I have a 2004 Buell XB12R with 13,000 miles on it. The other day I was riding and pulled a wheelie for just a short distance, say 300 feet or so. After that, the engine started tapping. It sounds kinda like between a tapping and a knocking sound. Hard to pin point exactly where it's coming from, but sounds more like right between the two cylinders. I have adjusted the primary chain, and check the fluids in the primary. The chain was loose so I adjusted that. When I finished that, the tapping was almost completely gone. But it had also cooled down for a day. I took it for a ride and the tapping came back just as loud. I'm going to change the oil and filter next and see if that helps. I'm using a Purelator filter. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks | ||
| Johnnylunchbox |
Loose front Sprocket Nut? Didn't the 2004 have the wrong torque spec from the factory? | ||
| Obiewan |
Good idea, I'll check that also today. Thanks for the quick reply. | ||
| Glitch |
Check the muffler straps | ||
| Obiewan |
Will do, Thanks | ||
| Obiewan |
Muffler straps are ok... This morning the sound is still there after cooling down all night. I'm headed to the shop for oil and new filter. I'll post the results when done. thanks. | ||
| Firebolt32 |
any hardware that could lose really. motor mounts, straps, header studs. i seriously doubt you did any serious damge. keep us posted. | ||
| Obiewan |
The sound is definitely coming from the engine area. Inside, I'm checking all the external mounts and bolts also... Could I be so lucky????? LOL | ||
| Migs16 |
um does this happen alot during wheelies! dont scare me u guys!!! | ||
| Obiewan |
ok, changed the oil and filter. Still have same problem. After trying to locate the area of the tapping, it suddenly got worse after it warmed up. Almost like a random click, clunking sound now. Hard to tell where it's coming from but something is definitely coming loose in there. sounds like the right side behind the timing cover. Not good!  | ||
| Nillaice |
to pin point the source; get a mechanic's stethoscope or a long screwdriver and put the butt of the handle just behind your ear | ||
| Glitch |
 | ||
| Obiewan |
I did the ole wood dowel trick to the ear, and was still hard to tell. I'm going to take off the primary cover and check the bolt. Thanks Glitch for that tip. I'll do that this after noon and post the results. thanks a bunch!!! | ||
| Pwnzor |
I think your front motor mount may be the problem here, you said it started right after a 300 foot wheelie... The rubber part of that motor mount is probably just damaged from the landing... | ||
| Obiewan |
The Rattle / tapping is consistent with the RPM of the motor. An now to the point to where it sounds like something is getting screwed up in there. I'm afraid to run it any more. I did take a pry bar and put pressure at different mount points to see if I could get it to lessen or go away and it had no effect. I have the primary cover off now and there is nothing in there that looks obvious. I'll Torque the flywheel bolt to spec and see if that helps. Not sure what to do next, I guess I take off the other side and take a looksie! | ||
| Hughlysses |
I wonder if it's a collapsed lifter? I'm thinking you could have gotten a slug of air through the oil system if you rode the wheelie long enough. OTOH it seems that the air would have worked its way out of the lifters by now. | ||
| Obiewan |
Yes, the weird thing is, it actually went away for a few minutes after I adjusted the primary chain. I rode it down the road about a mile and it was sounding sweet and then it came back. | ||
| Xoptimizedrsx |
check the lifters side. you could have starved one and not its sticking. we did that one race last season in a crash.The bike sounded like it was falling apart. terrible noise it was making. It sat for a couple weeks before we brought it to the garage to tear apart and rebuild. well just before we put the tools to it. we started it one more time. the rattle went away. the only thing we can think of was a locked tappet which i have done in car engines a few times. the bike since has race a few track days and daytona. not a single missed beat. I did add some micro molly to the oil changes that fills scars and works very well as a friction modifier to slick up surfaces. put the dowel on the lower right side by the push rods to listen there. in order to release the pressure fully its best to set the cyls at Top dead center to expand the lifters. even then those suckers can take a while to upload once collapsed. look up cavitation on tappets online, you will find it in ford and chevy listings. pain in the arse to diagnose. It sounds like coins in a blender but controlled to rpm. beating the push rods and rocker arms ever so slightly. check the very front push rod area first then the front one on the rear next. find top dead center. now let it set 48 hrs if you can and retest. if its gone for a few but comes back after this. I lean towards a lifter failing. XB bikes I prefer promagnum Lifters from compcams. low cost and direct drop in no mods needed. they have anti pump up locks to stop suck activity. plus they run quieter on the 551 e cam profile the buells have. mike (Message edited by xoptimizedrsx on May 03, 2010) | ||
| Obiewan |
man, thanks for that info. I'll try that. That is exactly what it sounds like. It did stop once, and then came back after a mile run or so. That's encouraging. I'll do exactly that and let you know. Thanks again. | ||
| Greg_e |
If you go with the compcam lifters can you take a few pictures before install and let us know what you think after install? I've got a little extra noise from that area on my 03 9R and might want to do a tear down in the future (if it gets worse) and while it is turn down I normally like to replace as many of the less expensive components as I can so that I won't need to tear it down again. Lifters and pushrods would be the first things on my list if I'm going to tear it down that far. | ||
| Xoptimizedrsx |
http://www.dragspecialties.com/product/getProductD etails.do?application=dragspecialties®ions=6&se gmentId=1&comCodeId=24&subComCodeId=929&itemOffset =&pageSize=&productId=35322 This is the part I use. | ||
| Greg_e |
So basically $100 per engine after you figure in shipping. | ||
| Obiewan |
I decided to take it to the Harley shop here in Dothan, Al. I'll report back when they take a look at it. I didn't have time to do it myself. Headed for the Dragon on June 4th. I hope!!!!!! I dropped the bike off Sat. the 15th, they told me yesterday they will look at it on Tuesday the 25st. Go figure! (Message edited by obiewan on May 21, 2010) | ||
| Vtwinjunkie |
any update? |
