Author |
Message |
Dktechguy112
| Posted on Wednesday, April 28, 2010 - 04:45 pm: |
|
I am going to put some jb weld on a dent in my frame to try seal it back up, but i need to clean the area around the dent first. What do you guys use to get the powder coat off the frame? It just a small area maybe 3 square inches. |
99buellx1
| Posted on Wednesday, April 28, 2010 - 04:53 pm: |
|
Sand paper. Or a flexible grinding wheel, like for metal prep. |
Duphuckincati
| Posted on Wednesday, April 28, 2010 - 06:32 pm: |
|
Just don't use a torch!! |
Duphuckincati
| Posted on Wednesday, April 28, 2010 - 06:42 pm: |
|
I'd be real sure any grinding wheel or such won't make any sparks first. Not to state the obvious, but you do have fumes in the area you're working on. |
Lovedabueller
| Posted on Wednesday, April 28, 2010 - 07:05 pm: |
|
ITS ALUMINUM.....IT DONT SPARK....be real careful. i would use a wire wheel... so you dont munch any of the tank away. just my .02 |
Mrrickbo
| Posted on Wednesday, April 28, 2010 - 07:23 pm: |
|
I would use a stripping agent, may take some time depending on how effective it is. It wouldn't take any metal off the frame. I've used some stuff from a Car-Quest, it was industrial grade and it worked really well on an aluminum alloy C-130 brake housing (making a clock out of it) and no problems. That would be my way of doing it if I was going at myself. Anyways, good luck (Message edited by mrrickbo on April 28, 2010) |
Dktechguy112
| Posted on Wednesday, April 28, 2010 - 07:32 pm: |
|
i am not very familiar with this stuff, but i would assume that a stripping agent is liquid, and the dent has a slight leak, so i don't think i can put a liquid striping agent on the bike, as it would get into the gas tank and then the engine. |
Boogiman1981
| Posted on Wednesday, April 28, 2010 - 07:32 pm: |
|
'aggressive abrasive action' it usually what it takes to get powder coat off |
Mrrickbo
| Posted on Wednesday, April 28, 2010 - 07:51 pm: |
|
I would take care in that area, the stuff I've used before was in a spray bottle so its easy to apply in the area's you want and don't. |
Mountainstorm
| Posted on Wednesday, April 28, 2010 - 08:32 pm: |
|
Safest way might be to media blast it with soda or walnut shells. That way it just takes the paint and not the metal. I've read here that the frame is not very thick. |
Ccryder
| Posted on Wednesday, April 28, 2010 - 09:18 pm: |
|
You can use "bear-tex" pads on an angle grinder. It's worked for me before. They come in different "grit" sizes like sandpaper. Neil S. |
146hp375lbs
| Posted on Wednesday, April 28, 2010 - 09:26 pm: |
|
I would use a light grit paper (220) to get through the powdercoat . Then you will need to put some serious scratches in it to give the epoxy something to bite to (mechanical adhesion) Rub back & forth a few times with 36 grit, removing as little material as possible. Keep in mind a dent doesn't leak. You've got a crack or puncture. I think the JB job will be a temporary fix, as the fuell will eventually degrade it. Probably sooner than later. |
Kc10_fe
| Posted on Thursday, April 29, 2010 - 12:19 am: |
|
PRO-SEAL TYPE TANK SEALANTS Pro-Seal and similar products are two-part polysulfide integral fuel tank and fuselage sealants. They have exceptional strength and jet fuel resistance as well as excellent resistance to oils, solvents, all fuels, and weathering http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/cs/fueltanksea lants.html |
Dktechguy112
| Posted on Thursday, April 29, 2010 - 12:31 am: |
|
kc10_fe, how would i apply that sealant, wouldn't i have to apply it to the inside of the fuel tank? |
|