| Author | Message | ||
     Towpro |
 I got a 2010 rim with brand new tire mounted on it. June 12th I leave on a 1000 mile ride!  CA0005.9A7 SCREW, 5/16, BRAKE ROTOR is back ordered until May 7th. Then is when HD starts to fill orders to the dealer, that then has to ship it to me. June 12th is getting close. HD is a PITA | ||
| Etennuly |
I took mine off when I painted the rims a few years ago. Wire brushed them and installed to proper torque with lock-tite on them. That was 30,000+ miles ago. Probably the big concern with these, other than liability, is that they are stainless. Bolts stretch when tightened, stainless steel does not have memory like steel bolts would, but on my own stuff with a close inspection of the threads, I have no problem with it. | ||
| Towpro |
Thanks Vern. I think nothing of changing sprockets and rotors on my dirt bikes and reusing the bolts. (but they are bolts and nuts, not threaded into a cast wheel). I just found that American Sport Bike does have them though. | ||
| Arcticktm |
Also, you can get them as part of Erik Buell Racing's rotor hardware kit (which they state is an improvement over stock for all). You can see details of my work under my recent posts on Knowledge Vault and Big,Bad... on front brake pulsing/fix. The EBR kit is about $42 + ship IIRC, and includes all new hardware, not just the bolts. I got it to me in 3 business days in NC. | ||
| Ratbuell |
EBR's kit is for the front. My guess is if he upgraded to the '10 wheel...he did the rear. I'd think you'd be OK re-using. I build and race 2.2 turbo Dodge cars with torque-to-yield (i.e. stretch) 11mm head bolts - iron block, aluminum head, they want some stretch in there. My guess is, though, you'd pull the threads right out of the aluminum wheel before you stretched a stainless bolt. Please, for *my* liability - note the use of the word "guess" | ||
| Arcticktm |
My mistake. Paid no attention to the new rear wheel reference since I have been so focused on my front brakes lately. | ||
| Arcticktm |
Just for clarity, stretch and yield are quite different. All fasteners stretch when you tighten them, since that is how they clamp the parts together. Stretching a common bolt within its elastic region is usually OK for re-use, since it goes back to original shape when tension is released. Torque to yield, which is becoming much more commonly used, means you have put so much force on the fastener that you stretch it beyond the elastic region into the material's plastic region. It will not come back to original shape when tension is released. It has been plastically, permanently, deformed. Re-using this fastener to the original torque numbers will not give you the same clamp load as before. I have no experience with braking systems, but we do a fair amount of high temp bolt load calculations here at work, and have recently gone to some torque-to-yield applications to keep us from moving from stainless steel bolts to very expensive inconel bolts. Torque to yield gives you a tighter tolerance on the actual clamp load you achieve, which is all we usually care about in bolted joint design. Torque-turn methods do the same thing, but not quite to the same level as torque to yield. Based on the torque values used on the front rotor bolts (I have not messed with the rear), it seems unlikely these bolts are coming close to yield strength. That would leave the reason to throw them away to be either cover-your butt, or (more likely) related to the pre-applied thread lock on the bolts. They might be too worried that a mechanic would not properly apply a liquid threadlock, or would get it on the drive bushings and cause a brake safety issue. I doubt if it is temperature related, as I don't think the brakes get hot enough to change the material structure much (like a heat treat). That is an issue in exhasut parts, though. Sorry if I went off the deep end here... | ||
| Pontlee77 |
Remembering we have a floating front rotor so we can tighten enough but as we have 2 washers that keep the rotor in place the bolt is just a mere holder for the rotor. some loctite wont harm. | ||
| Baal |
Thanks Arcticktm! Great explanation of the situation with the rear rotor bolts and fasteners in general. I'm in the process of swapping the rear rotor on my XBSs, and (in my non-engineer's mind) had gone through some of the same reasoning. I had gotten replacement screws, but didn't like them as well as the OEs. I think a thorough cleaning and re-use is a judicious choice for me. |
