| Author | Message | ||
     Hogzilla |
Last night I installed Uly pegs on the 1125r and rode into work this morning with them. A few thoughts and a tip for those installing. I got the black ones. A little more, but well worth it. Tip: put a little oil on about 1/4" of the tip of the pin and it will go through a lot smoother. I spent a half hour trying to get it through the bracket, peg and spring. Put a little motor oil on and it went right through. A little Simple Green when you wash it next and it will all be gone. Appearance: Kickass! Looks almost stock with the black frame. Love the look. Drop: I measured the stock peg next to the Uly peg and it actually drops 1.75". Makes a world of difference in position. Comfort: You don't feel like a jockey on a race horse. If you're riding your R as a race bike, you may not like the stance. If you ride street, commuter or sport touring, you'll like the ride position. Way more comfortable. Grip: Grabs your feet like a bear trap. Nice and grippy. | ||
| Carbonbigfoot |
Best mod I've made on mine, tied for 1st with the High Bars. R | ||
| Sportster_mann |
Work fine on my CR, took them off of my R as I found them too wide when in a crouched position - the Lightning pegs are much better - not being so wide they allow my feet to "roll" around the pegs. | ||
| Kirb |
May I suggest a cheap powdercoating kit and a toaster oven if you want cheaper parts and coloring them yourself. I paid $100ish for the hotcoat kit and $3 for a thrift store toaster oven...I can't count how much hardware I've done to date. Paid for itself many times over. 15 minutes to cure, 5 minutes to cool, ready to install. Faster than painting. | ||
| Mickeyq |
I installed the alum Uly pegs on my R, I like the way they look. Little hassle with the left side, but function is great. The difference in comfort for my size 12s is worth switching over. | ||
| Syonyk |
How does the drop affect the operating angle of one's feet for the controls? A 1.75" drop seems like it would put feet rather below the controls in a normal riding position. | ||
| Ratbuell |
The controls are height-adjustable. Set them to match. I also have black Uly pegs on my CR, and my 34" (titanium) inseam is VERY grateful! The only thing I may do is lengthen the toepegs; the Ulysses pegs seem to move my feet out from bike centerline and I occasionally "miss" the shift or brake peg. I think half an inch longer would be perfect. | ||
| Hogzilla |
Ratbuell +1 Exactly. I wouldn't mind a little longer toe pegs now. Syonyk, as far as the height goes, for me, the shifter is fine but the rear brake needs to be changed. Unfortunately that's the harder of the two. No biggie though. | ||
| Whistler |
American Sport Bike has longer brake/shifter toe pegs. Part # A19001-1125. | ||
| Hogzilla |
Those are sweet! http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/A19001.html | ||
| Ccryder |
I found a tapered punch helps get things aligned and eases the pin installation. Neil S. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
If you're riding your R as a race bike, you may not like the stance True, i have the American Sport Bike 1" lowered LSL pegs and I am finding myself dragging toes occasionally. A drop closer to 2" will certainly limit your cornering clearance quite a bit more. | ||
| Craiga |
The American Sport Bike toe pegs are a great improvement, good cheap mod. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
A drop closer to 2" will certainly limit your cornering clearance quite a bit more. aLSO, i believe those Uly pegs are quite a bit longer than the LSL pegs, so they will tough down that much sooner. | ||
| Aseecobra |
I see the Uly pegs move the foot contact patch out away from the pivot point in comparison to the stock pegs. Do you guys find yourselves having to point the tips of your feet inward at all to touch the controls? If yes, is is uncomfortable? Chris | ||
| Slowride |
Aseecobra, Yes.... No.... | ||
| Ccryder |
Chris, Yes a little.... No.... Neil S. | ||
| Hogzilla |
Agreed. Yes. No. When in gear running along it is kind of nice to have everything out of the way. BUT, if you plan to race, this is not what you want. (Message edited by hogzilla on April 26, 2010) | ||
| Fresnobuell |
BUT, if you plan to race, this is not what you want. I would expand it to aggressive street riding as well. | ||
| Hogzilla |
For sure. If you're doing crazy canyon carving, prolly won't work out for you. | ||
| Mickeyq |
It's very easy to switch the pegs, so when I go to the track, the stock ones go back. | ||
| Ponti1 |
Aseecobra, At first, yes / yes A hundred or so miles later, yes / not really | ||
| Ratbuell |
Rear brake is an easy adjust, use the threaded rod coming out of the bottom of the master cylinder. Jam nut loose, spin rod (or is it the collar coming out of the m/c that the rod goes into? I'd have to go look...) to adjust peg height, lock down with jam nut. Simple. | ||
| Hogzilla |
Ratbuell, gracias! Will adjust that tonight. | ||
| Ratbuell |
No problem. I don't remember if you spin the sleeve, or the rod...but I DO know you do NOT have to undo the cotter-pin connection to do it. Which is what makes me think you spin the barrel at the top of the rod, that disappears into the m/c boot. After unlocking the jamnut. |
