| Author | Message | ||
     Avc8130 |
So I have had a DDM 55w H7 HID kit on my CR for about 1000 miles so far with no issues. Today for some reason I realized I was riding around with no headlight on. I don't know if it failed to ignite when I turned the key, when it started, or if it just shut off while riding. When I got home, I cycled the key and it fired right up and came right back on when the bike started. Anyone experience this before? ac | ||
| Benzo_mike |
That's going to happen from time to time unless you suppress the low beam from coming on until the engine starts and is running. Especially if you need to crank the engine a few times, the voltage drop from cranking can wig out the ingniter and leave you with no light. You can build a latching relay arrangement that will put the low beam on only after you first hit the brakes - that can allow you to get the engine started first, yet guarantee that the low beam comes on basically as soon as you start rolling (you're not going far without touching the brakes). I wired this up today on the Suzuki. Those HID's burn a hole in the night, don't they? I can help you with the circuit design if nobody chimes in. | ||
| Froggy |
Then how come I have never had that issue with my DDM HID's on several bikes? I have logged tens of thousands of miles. Brake switch idea sounds good, except I often commute to work without using the brake till I pull in my parking spot  (Message edited by froggy on April 22, 2010) | ||
| Avc8130 |
Benzo, Hmm...that might be a good idea. Circuit shouldn't be that tough, but if you have a schematic that would be cool. Froggy, It isn't difficult to hit the brake to activate the light. I usually hold the brake as I get on the bike anyways. ac | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
i have a different brand i got last summer so far no issues but the latching circuit would be nice if for nothing else but peace of mind plus i like to tinker | ||
| Freight_dog |
So thats how Froggy gets his big mpg numbers.  | ||
| Bobbuell1961 |
Mike , I like your idea, My Uly light up every time , The CR has been hit and miss, i always have to make sure it's on. If you could post a wiring diagram it would be appreciated. Thanks,Bob | ||
| Benzo_mike |
Brief description - brake light hot feeding the coil, other side of coil to ground. Low beam hot passing through the high current part of the relay (4-lug relay, SPST). Back-feed the coil (hot feed) off the high current hot out. So basically, the relay will trigger whenever the brake light is energized, and not before. Once the coil triggers and starts feeding current, it will feed the coil and latch on until the high current hot feed is disrupted (until the low beam - read "ignition" - is turned off). Put diodes (electrical check-valves) on the high current back feed leg to the coil and on the brake light hot coil feed. This prevents forward feed from the coil hot to the headlight, and also prevents hot backfeed from the high current relay out to the brake light. | ||
| Benzo_mike |
Diodes should be rated for at least 1.0 A @ 12.0 V. Radio Shack is your friend on this one. | ||
| Dktechguy112 |
i ordered the 35 watt ddm kit, will i have this problem? I just want to change out my low beams, so when i start the bike should i just flip on the high beams, as it will still be a stock bulb, or will the fact that my kit is only 35w keep it from having this problem? | ||
| Jules |
Flipping to high beam shouldn't make any difference as the low beam is still on anyway (On the R)... actually I just looked and you have a CR so that's probably different... forget I said anything... | ||
| Avc8130 |
CR high is BOTH lights so that won't work. ac | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
also wonder if it may be because of the 55w kit vs 35w the OE harness is designed for... | ||
| Froggy |
The OE lights are 55w on his CR. | ||
| Gemini |
could always use the acc. relay for supply voltage. it doesn't turn on for about 15-20 after engine has started and is running. | ||
| Jules |
I'd be worried about that as it switches off if the ECM recognises a low voltage situation... That'd be a bit scary at night.. | ||
| Gemini |
adjust the low voltage threshold. | ||
| Dktechguy112 |
does anyone with a 35w low on a cr have this problem? The cr only has one low bulb, and 35w is the stock specification, so i figured it wouldn't cause any problems. also, if the low cuts out, does the high still work? | ||
| Avc8130 |
35W is NOT the stock configuration. The CR uses a 55W H7 from the factory. ac | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
k i figured it'd be the same but i guess one vs two they could have a 55w and not cause charging issues from that alone | ||
| Oldog |
AVC i had similar issues, My hid was from a different supplier, it is as you say a voltage drop issue or a cable problem lamp to balast. i have an inturuppter switch i installed under the seat of my tube frame ( h4 with H/L by moving the lamp ) most good balasts will restrike the lamp when it goes out, check the cable and all connectors, check the feed voltage 8~9 volts the balast drops out, | ||
| Avc8130 |
I am looking at delay circuits. It appears they are about $15 and pretty easy to install with spade connectors so I can take it out should I have a warranty issue with the HID. ac | ||
| Ccryder |
There was someone recently that found a pointless relay that had a delay circuit built in so it would not fire the HIDs for 10-45s after key on. Here is a link: http://www.wolstentech.com/index.php (Message edited by ccryder on April 23, 2010) | ||
| Jules |
Why would you buy something that's pointless? OK - I am sorry, I couldn't resist that... | ||
| Ccryder |
Just to confuse you ;+} Sorry I couldn't resist it either. Time2Ride home, I'm outta heeeeere! | ||
| Dktechguy112 |
i thought the lows are 35w and the highs are 55w. | ||
| Avc8130 |
You thought wrong.  | ||
| Benzo_mike |
With a latch to the brake circuit you could work on the bike, perhaps some stuff with the key on but the engine not running, for as long as you want without the HID running the battery down. Just saying. | ||
| Froggy |
How about even better? Make a relay that gets signal off the ignition line, then put a switch in it mounted next to the regular light switch. Bingo, lights on whenever you want, off whenever you want, and off when the key is off. Who can I pay to make me this? | ||
| Avc8130 |
Hmm, that would be pretty easy. Since he HIDs use spades you could just run the ground through a switch. ac |
