| Author | Message | ||
     Kesselrunner |
Hey everyone, V&H SS2-R: three of the four end-cap rivets/bolts vibrated their way or bottomed out and busted out of the canister, the baffle busted in half and naturally all the glass blew out the dangling end cap. I was going to just buy/trade a new system, however... My limited technical knowledge of bike anatomy tells me that the exhaust system is comprised of header>can (baffle inside)>end-cap. So my header is fine, the can itself is not too banged up. The baffle is shot, and the end-cap is either salvageable or easily(?) replaced. The V&H eats up glass pretty quickly and I would love a custom set-up that would let me repack easily and cheaply. My logic being, why spend $200-400 on a new system when a custom welder might help me out for under $100? I was thinking a welded (or clamped) metal strip around the outside end of the can that would cover up the torn rivet holes. Then, instead of rivets using something else that would allow for easier removal of the end-cap. What do you all think of something like that? I'm sure people have customized exhausts. I'm still reading through archives on here. Also, I need to quiet down the V&H (moving to CA after graduation, staying with elderly relatives). Will the Big Shots /Python Quiet Baffle (http://bit.ly/bjilMg) fit in the SS2-R? Any info or suggestions on this matter is appreciated! Sorry if this is a repost - there is a lot of info on the site and I'm still plowing through it all. TJ | ||
| Kesselrunner |
I was thinking either having someone cut the bad part off or wrap it in a metal strip to reinforce.  See the two ways to remove the exhaust - either the bolts directly connecting the bracket+can, or the bolts connecting bracket+bike - which one do I remove!? They are both pains in the butz   My poor baffle... Is there a quieter replacement or a standard V&H SS2-R baffle that I'll need to order?  | ||
| Swampy |
That can be repaired by redrilling the holes for the attacing screws. Then get a piece of mesh tube or expanded steel to weld in place of the rusted out part. | ||
| Kesselrunner |
Thanks Swampy easy-breezy! ... What rusted out part? | ||
| Kesselrunner |
Update: Found a guy who welded the holes back into existence for $20. the weld does not look that great, one has a definite crack all around it. He said if i brought him a 1" stainless steel strip he would bend it around the edge of the can and drill holes for me. I think that is the way to go? Next up is ordering the baffle (and fiberglass). Please help me with this! I googled V&H SS2 R replacement baffles but there are mediums, race spec, std streets, which ones do what and how do i make this thing as quiet as a V&H can be? Thanks you! | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Just call V&H. The baffle is about $35 Packing is extra. You might want to try the packing kit from American Sport Bike. Mine is still in my S2 after over 18,000 miles. I checked it last fall, still good! | ||
| Kesselrunner |
According to HD the only baffle made (at this time) for the SS2R is a quiet baffle (part #21397) that is $47.00 and takes two warm sunny weeks to get  According to V&H the only baffle they make is the standard un-quiet one (also part #21397) that is $47 and takes three weeks to ship and another week to get to KS..  I didn't order it from V&H while on the ph. I'm gonna find the 'medium' replacement that around for $37 and will ship in less than a week. In the meantime I'll have welder guy reinforce the can. At least I'll have the downtime necessary to fully concentrate on cleaning the wheels... (Message edited by Kesselrunner on April 20, 2010) | ||
| Fahren |
What Swampy said - you obviously are working with a welder, so have him make up a tube of expanded steel mesh to replace the (rusted out/broken) baffle tube. The fiberglass packing kits may not quiet the can down as much as your grandparents' neighbors would like. I am ordering some stuff to experiment with re-packing, per an older badweb post - it involves fiberglass "stove/fireplace" rope and a basalt insulation matting wrapped around the core. Here's the old thread: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/444831.html I'm hoping that this method will not only stay put far longer than the fiberglass, but that the increased density will soften the edges off the pipe's sound. I never saw another post from the OP on the results of his pipe packing, so I don't know if it worked, but the basic materials and method seemed to make sense to me. | ||
| Ezblast |
Should work - furnace insulation has been mentioned as well. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I stuffed (and I mean stuffed) my White Brothers with the FMF packing and I really thought that might actually make it louder since it was packed so tight. Although its distinctive sound can still be heard from way across the racetrack, its very quiet, especially for a race bike. Very quiet! PS I'm running the WB without discs so, its just like a V&H. | ||
| Fahren |
I think that, even compressed, the packing is still acoustically absorbent, so more of it, as you have experienced, Eric, should definitely absorb more sound. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Kesselrunner: Did you ever fix your exhaust? |
