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Buell Forum » Knowledge Vault (tech, parts, apparel, & accessories topics) » Electrical - Battery, Charg Sys, Lights, Switches, Sensors & Guages » Archive through May 14, 2010 » XB9S '03 Starting issues... « Previous Next »

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Thunderheart
Posted on Thursday, April 15, 2010 - 12:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

A pal of mine just got his bike back from a shop checking out his turn signal issue, they couldn't replicate it. (randomly blows fuse)

Anyways, the bike started fine, till we closed up shop here, then it wouldn't even cut the fuel pump on until either the clutch was pulled in, or the kick stand was up.

Once home, the same thing was happening, but when we took the seat off to check fuses, and tried again, the fuel pump wouldn't cut on at all, clutch or stand. Then after scratching our heads a bit, we turned every switch off, then back on and flicked the high beams on and off, then it went back to starting the fuel pump (and firing up) but only if clutch was in or stand was up.

When it does fire up, it doesn't hesitate at all, so is there a ground or a wire that has jostled loose?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Sparky
Posted on Friday, April 16, 2010 - 01:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Did you find out what causes the turn signal to blow the fuse?

That may be related to the starting problem. More info on that: There is a starter interlock circuit that used diodes located in the fuse box.

Diode #2 provides a ground path to the neutral switch and allows the Start Relay to energize independently from the clutch switch which provides a direct ground path to energize the Start Relay.

Diode #2 prevents the Clutch Switch from activating the Neutral Light.

Diode #2 is jumpered to Diode #1 in the Fuse Box.

Diode #1 provides a ground path from the Neutral or Clutch Switch to energize the Ignition Relay whereas the Sidestand Switch provides a direct ground path to energize the Ignition Relay.

I'd look for that jumper wire in the wire harness where it connects with the Fuse Box in the connector at pins 2 and 7. It should be tan with a light green tracer. Check if it may be loose, broken or has bare spots in the insulation which may be shorting to something it shouldn't.

If the wiring checks out OK around the fuse box and the problem persists, try replacing the 3 relays in the Relay Cluster.
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Thunderheart
Posted on Tuesday, April 20, 2010 - 10:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

We replaced the Start Relay, and the fuel pump came on like it's supposed to once the key switch and emergency switch were set to on. The bike started up perfectly as well.

Now the down side, he was on the way over for a hike and as soon as he put the left turn signal on, it blew the fuse yet again!

I'm thinking that somewhere from the switch to the fuse box there is simply just a rubbed down wire housing and just needs to be taped up with electrical tape... but I could be wrong.

Any ideas?
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Sparky
Posted on Wednesday, April 21, 2010 - 02:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you don't find a wire with a bare spot in the insulation along the wire harness somewhere, there might be a wire shorting in either the front or rear turn signal housing.

To check this out, try disconnecting one or the other and see if the short goes away.

If it does, then remove the turn signal and inspect carefully for bare wires or wires touching near the base of the bulb socket. That's been know to happen before.
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