| Author | Message | ||
     Mattmcc00 |
Anybody else suffering from chronic pulg fouling? I cleaned my plugs last week, drove it, then started it yesterday to drive it into the garage, and this morning the front cylinder isn't firering again. Should I change my plugs? Would new plugs reduce foulings? Would irridium help reduce fouling? | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Quit blipping the throttle. I fouled out the original rear plug at 5000 miles. Didn't blip the throttle after that and I haven't fouled another plug and have 25,000 on my 06'. Front plug is the original. I always run 10% ethanol gas. | ||
| Mattmcc00 |
I never touch the throttle on start up. | ||
| Oldwesterncowboy |
I went through 3 sets of plugs. then figured out.. DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE AT STARTUP for a couple minuets. especially if the temp in below 50 | ||
| Ratbuell |
...and do NOT "start it to ride into the garage". If you start the bike, RIDE IT for at least 20 minutes to get it out of coldstart (i.e. "choke") mode. If you don't have 20 minutes to kill riding an always-entertaining motorcycle...push it. It's only 400lbs, they roll easy. Left hand, handlebar; right hand, passenger grab rail. Also - the updated plug spec with better "anti-fouling" characteristics for the DDFI-3 bikes ('08 and up) is the 10R12X. 10R12A's were super-prone to fouling; the X takes care of a lot of that. But you still have to ride it every time you start it. | ||
| Mattmcc00 |
PRICELESS information guys thank you!! Also here is another Noob question, Do I have to change the plugs in pairs? I would assume so, but on the off chance that I can only change the front one... (I seem to only ever foul the front one, 3 times so far) as the back one is a real pain. | ||
| Terrible1one3 |
These bikes don't respond well to starting for a second and turning it off. If you start it you should really try to get it through a full heat cycle. Also, the bikes can also foul from riding them like a Harley and bogging the motor down a lot. Remember it is a performance engine made for revving and finds between 3k and 4k RPM to be where the sweet spot is. If you are dogging it and cruising around in 5th gear ant 40 mph you will most likely experience lots of "Coughing or Hiccups" and fouled plugs. I have 15k on mine on the original plugs since new and have had zero issues with the tips above. | ||
| Etennuly |
Rat +1. Also, once a plug is fouled they seldom are ever "cured". It may run OK, but not often as good as one that has not been fouled. If I wet one and get it to run again, I replace it, in part because it can foul easier the next time. I have changed only one as needed with no problems(sometimes when it is 20F degrees and very humid - crap happens  ). My general rule about starting the bike to move it.....only if really necessary and never more than two times, let it warm up for four or five minutes before moving it, do the short move, and the next time you fire it up, be ride ready and put at least twenty miles on it. This and only turning the throttle when you mean it, will keep it from fouling again. | ||
| Mattmcc00 |
Also, what about using Irridium plugs? They are supposedly better resistant to fouling. NGk recommends DCPR8EIX, but many people talk about using DCPR9EIX seeing as the "9" model has a cooler heat rating than the recommended "8" model. | ||
| Mattmcc00 |
Knowing that the back cylinder runs hotter than the front would thier be a benefit in using a hotter "9" heat rated plug in the front and a cooler "8" heat rated plug in the back? Would you want a hot rated plug in the hot cylinder because that is at the temp that it works best, or would you want a cold rated plug in the hot cylinder to better cool it??  I'm so confused?? so many possibilities? | ||
| Xbeau12s |
I've never had issues fowling plugs on these bikes. You should at least let it run for about 5-10 minutes before you touch it. And all the other knowledge above is right on to! | ||
| Tootal |
Hey Vern, next time your around a campfire, a decent one anyway, throw all those old plugs in the hot coals and leave them till the aspirin kicks in the next day. Dig them out and rinse them off, good as new! | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
You don't have to let a ULY run 5 or 10 minutes before you ride it. I start mine up and ride it immediately, even in cold weather. | ||
| Etennuly |
Greg, What do you recommend rinsing them with? Some Tennessee mountain spring water?  Irridium are a good choice. I would run the same heat range front and rear unless you are doing some custom fuel mapping. You could hit some plug mfgrs web sites for information that may answer what you are looking to know. | ||
| Tootal |
I thought that's what you were putting in the fire!  | ||
| Ratbuell |
I start mine up and ride it immediately, even in cold weather Good. And your demand will make sure they keep rockerbox gaskets and base gaskets in the parts pipeline for the rest of us. Starter-to-throttle doesn't always mean EFI hiccups, but it DOES always turn into gasket leaks eventually. These are aircooled engines, and the bits need to expand properly before putting a ton of revs (and hotspots) to 'em. Even with the good, later-generation gaskets. Mattmcc - I would not recommend putting different heat range plugs in each cylinder. I also do not see the reason to put iridiums in. I run stock 10r12A plugs in my '06, and in 12,000 miles have yet to foul one. | ||
| Buellerxt |
Okay, Ratbuell, I'll bite. What's the guesstimated optimum warm-up time? I use 1.5-2 minutes from a cold start. 30 sec.-1 minute if a re-start from a 30 min, or so, stop. No science involved; just trying to get the engine warm without over doing it. Your thoughts/comments? Others? Thanks. | ||
| Ratbuell |
I start the bike, then gear up. Wintertime, it takes longer (more layers, more fidgeting to seal all the airgaps between gloves/sleeves, helmet/collar, etc). Summer, not as long - but still overpants, jacket, gloves, helmet. Winter can take me 3-5 minutes; summer, probably 1.5-2. Rule of thumb is, if you can feel heat with a bare hand on cylinder head fins, you're OK to ride. Not "oh s**t" hot, but feeling them warm up. Head, not cylinder. But...I've used my gear-up method for 12k miles on the Uly, and on a handful of tubers in the past. Although...I'm getting spoiled by my CR and it's coolant temp display - when it stops flashing "COLD", you're good to go! | ||
| Etennuly |
Greg, when I put it in the fire it is used!  For me warm up is dependent on ambient temperature. If it is 80F+ no real warm up is needed 30 seconds or so for the oil to fully circulate, at 50F to 70F I let it warm for 2 to 4 minutes, below 40F it can idle for fifteen minutes before the fan comes on, but I usually let it warm for five minutes or so, or how ever long it takes to get my outer gear on. That means when it is 20F it takes ten minutes to gear up. Warmed up too much.....I would think that threshold would be after the fan has run for quite a while. Not really a concern unless you leave it alone in a bad neighborhood, are nearly out of gas or feel like you are wasting it, go out for a big meal, or take a nap.  | ||
| Id073897 |
Good. And your demand will make sure they keep rockerbox gaskets and base gaskets in the parts pipeline for the rest of us. What a bullshit. Engine warms up 3 times as fast when riding than when idling, cold running time is much shorter and operating temperature is reached much earlier. | ||
| Froggy |
My warmup time is how long it takes me to get gloves + helmet on. Any more than that is just wasting gas  I love the 20 minutes minimum of engine running suggestion, I can't remember the last time my engine ran for that long without being turned off.  | ||
| Buellerxt |
Thanks guys. Funny stuff there, Etennuly!  | ||
| Tootal |
The secret is to start up and ride but be gentle on the throttle for the first mile. The cylinders grow a substantial amount and this growth is what helps your base and head gaskets to seal. Rocker gaskets are not effected by this growth. I start and ride out of the hood with a gentle throttle. This warms up quicker and does no harm. If you run the crap out of a cold motor you could blow the head gasket. I will say that on 40 degree mornings I will start it before my helmet and gloves go on. 30 seconds of warm up does allow it to run smoother while I putt through the hood. | ||
| Johnboy777 |
I never warm up my bike - I start it, ride it, it runs like chit for a few minutes, then all is well. Kinda like my granddad's old John Deere. . | ||
| Ratbuell |
Engine warms up 3 times as fast when riding than when idling, cold running time is much shorter and operating temperature is reached much earlier. You are correct. The engine does warm up faster while riding...IN HOTSPOTS. If you warm up the engine PROPERLY, you get good, even heat throughout the engine allowing the bits and pieces to expand and swell (and SEAL) properly and evenly. Personally, I'd rather not risk any more leaks than I absolutely have to live with. I've gotta suit up anyway...might as well kill 2 birds with a single five minutes - gear up, and warm up, at the same time. | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
I like the start up, gear up, warm up method and I've never had a problem with leaking gaskets or fouling plugs on my Uly. BUT..... My STT had a leaky rear rocker box gasket. The previous owner was a teenager... He may have not been that patient | ||
| Mikef5000 |
Engine warms up 3 times as fast when riding than when idling And 5 times faster when holding WOT than when riding, so hell, just hit the starter and hold the throttle wide open! Engine is fully up to temp in seconds! (and toasted in minutes) I let mine warm up about a minute or two in the summer, 2-4 in the winter. I heard lots of good things about iridium so I made the switch in both my XB's. | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
Hey Mike, no luck on the turn signals. You wouldn't happen to have a set of rear passenger pegs and heel guards would ya? I was thinking Lemon and V may want to do some two up riding once we get to Homecoming. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Mark - pegs/guards for....? I have the set I took off my CR if you need to use 'em, AFAIK they're identical to XB-S and XB-R. I can bring 'em along to HC, no problem. I only have the RH side's bolts, though - the LH side bolts are in the bike, holding the tender harness and the overflow/vent tube (they gave me a place to zip tie those two items). | ||
| Mikef5000 |
Yes, I have a set I pulled from my XB-S when I turned it back into a solo bike. Remind me to bring them over sometime! And since we royally hijacked this thread, anyone have a set (2 rears or all 4) oem XB signals PM me! OK SORRY! carry on with your plug talk... |
