| Author | Message | ||
     Hangetsu |
I hate to expose my electronic ignorance here, but I have a dilemma. I recently bought a set of PIAA 1100X driving lights and in my desire to have the setup as clean and clutter free as possible, I bought a slick little bar switch from PMR Components (see pic below.) Now here’s the problem. The stock PIAA switch has three leads, one of which controls when the switch power can be operated; i.e., only when the ignition switch is on, etc. This third lead seems to be an integral part of the harness that came with the lights. The switch from PMR, as most switches do, only has connecting points for two leads. So my question is, how can I utilize this standard two prong switch and still use the PIAA harness and the system it provides to control how and when the power will run through the system? Input from anyone with knowledge and experience in this area will be GREATLY appreciated. Froggy, you out there?  | ||
| Ronmold |
Is the third wire a ground for the stock switch pilot lamp? | ||
| Froggy |
God damn you, I'm gonna have to tear into the corpse and see  | ||
| Hangetsu |
Ronmold - No, the third wire channels the current through the positive lead. It you connect it to the ignition switch, the running lights can only be run with the ignition switch on. If you connect it to the high beam switch, they will only run with the high beam on, etc. | ||
| Froggy |
My wiring was too buried to get a good idea of whats what, but if I am not mistaken, the stock switch controls a relay. The relay would tap into something like the accessory port, that way you can't leave the lights on when the key is off. The lights should still be powered off the harness it came with. Check the manual, I pulled that info out of old memory. | ||
| Hangetsu |
Correct on the relay Froggy. The positive lead directly from the battery goes into the relay. Out from the relay come a cluster of wires, some going directly to the lights and two, a black and a white wire going to a connector that connects to the switch. However, where two wires from the relay to the switch connector, a third, open ended white wire comes back out of this connector. On the downstream side of this connector, three wires, a white, a red, and a black go to the switch. It’s this loose, third wire that connects to another switched component of the bike to prevent the lights from being switched on when the bike isn’t running. It’s the use of this feature that I want to retain, but use a different, two prong switch. I know you used these same lights. Did you use the stock PIAA harness, or did you make something from scratch? | ||
| Prowler |
After trying to find a place to mount a switch for my Hella driving lamps, I decided to try an Auto-Switch (uses the high beam flasher to activate the lights). This thing works great and eliminates an exposed switch altogether. Also came with an LED that I've dash mounted to indicate when the lights are on. Very slick unit. | ||
| Froggy |
I used the stock setup, all 500 feet of it all rolled up under the seat. Skintains was nice and helped me out and cut the excess wire down so it wasn't wasting a soda cans worth of space under the seat. | ||
| Hangetsu |
The more I hear about it, I'm thinking I should have gone for the autoswitch. It sounds like a slick setup. This PMR switch is such a nice looking piece though. It connects to the clutch lever in a way that makes it look OEM. However, if I can't use it with the stock PIAA harness, I may have to explore other options, or just use the switch that came with the lights. It's too bad, because that PMA piece was $$$ ;-( | ||
| Ronmold |
Does the factory switch have a pilot lamp to indicate when it's on? If so it's either the black or the white wire that gives the pilot lamp ground and the loose wire is your ignition. I would assume* it would be the black wire that is ground, check it with a meter and if so tape it off, not needed. Your new switch needs 1 lead going to ign., L beam or H beam (the same place that loose PIAA wire should have gone to) & the other lead from the new switch going to the white wire that was not open-ended and went to the PIAA switch. That PIAA white is the relay trigger that lights everything up. You should see it going to one of the relay terminals. * you know what that means! (Message edited by ronmold on April 17, 2010) | ||
| Froggy |
Factory switch has a green status LED | ||
| Ratbuell |
You could do what I did with my Hellas - I eliminated the switch altogether. Lighting from the relay is as-designed. The relay is wired for power and ground as-designed. But, where the switch would wire into the relay, I simply took a wire to my high beam circuit (the switch setup is normally trigger circuit-to switch-to relay - close the switch to turn your item "on", and you're basically creating a constant lead from your trigger circuit to the relay). Power to the switch "input" terminal on the relay turns on the lights - in other words, every time I hit the high beams, my aux lights come on because that relay terminal sees power. No switch, no fuss, no dead batteries from lights being left on. | ||
| Hangetsu |
Thanks guys. Yes, there is a lamp in the stock switch that indicates the driving lights are on. I'll analyze what you've explained here while eyeballing the harness and see if my electronically retarded brain can't figure this thing out. Thanks for your time. |
