Author |
Message |
Athens_blaster
| Posted on Tuesday, April 13, 2010 - 08:56 pm: |
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So I just got this bike 5 weeks ago, its an 03 with a little over 3000 miles on it. It had been fine at idle until last Friday, I noticed at idle it was running really hard. I backed the idle adjustment screw on the side of the carb out and got it where I wanted it. It was fine until today, when i noticed it was running really weak at idle. I put it in a little bit, went for a 5 minute ride and when i came to a stop, the idle was really strong again. I backed the screw out a little to get it sounding right, and headed home. By the time I made it home, it had done it again and was idling really strong. This is also accompanied by a backfire or two when im coming to a stop, usually after ive downshifted it into second gear. Does anyone have any tips for getting that idle screw to stay in place or if anyone else has some suggestions feel free to throw em out there. Sorry if I'm not explaining the problem very well, I can go into more detail if it is needed. Thanks all |
Ezblast
| Posted on Tuesday, April 13, 2010 - 10:37 pm: |
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Das Boot! |
Athens_blaster
| Posted on Wednesday, April 14, 2010 - 02:08 pm: |
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Dang, well sorry for making a meaningless thread, i had looked around wasn't sure. I reseated the boot to see if that was all it needed, and at startup after the auto-enricher thing calmed down it sounded fine. I started moving and it still sounds fine, until i start coming to a stop. When i get down into second or first and pull in the clutch to come to a stop it starts revving like crazy again, then when i release the clutch and start moving slowly it seems to go back to normal. could you explain a little of why the boot is causing it? just curious, still learning and have not had much mechanical experience before i bought this bike. the boot looks to be in alright shape, but then again, that boot might not have been replaced since 2003 for all i know. |
Crackhead
| Posted on Wednesday, April 14, 2010 - 05:52 pm: |
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a tiny tear causes air to leak past the throttle body and will raise the idle and make the bike run lean. |
Ezblast
| Posted on Wednesday, April 14, 2010 - 07:32 pm: |
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A very tiny crack - sometimes a series of cracks that the eye can't see - just due to age of the boot. EZ |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Wednesday, April 14, 2010 - 10:10 pm: |
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To clarify, the crack in the boot causes it to run lean and as a result, the idle rpms increase. PS If your thread was meaningless, we would've moved it! |
Reuel
| Posted on Thursday, April 15, 2010 - 01:08 pm: |
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All that idle screw adjustment may have set you in a spot where it is going to rev when it is sucking extra air. I have seen two causes. The boot can work its way loose and get dirty, leaking between rubber and metal. It also cracks right in the middle. Cleaning can fix the former, but it seems that more often replacement is done either way. If you replace it, you should still do a good cleaning on the metal parts. So, turn that idle screw all the way in, then turn it out 2 1/2 turns (this number varies slightly, depending on what results you want, but for troubleshooting, this is a good starting point). Go after that boot and see if it fixes all your troubles. |
Athens_blaster
| Posted on Monday, May 03, 2010 - 10:59 pm: |
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O my lord. I just got my new boot in the mail from Harley the other day. I will say I should have noticed it before, but the previous owner of my blast for some reason decided to just cut a piece of rubber tubing and use that as the carb-intake coupler. I mean, it looked kind of right, but after replacing the boot, it has solved every thing that i would consider problems with the bike. It idles correctly, doesn't change after riding, and the vibration of the bike has been dramatically reduced. I just wish I had known sooner.... |
Ezblast
| Posted on Tuesday, May 04, 2010 - 12:23 am: |
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Welcome! |
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