| Author |
Message |
    
Mr_incognito
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 13, 2010 - 06:24 pm: | 
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Ah, here we go, heres part of it.
Shell Rotella Motor Oils (A diesel oil commonly used in sportbikes) are now API-SM rated (Versus the SG Rating they previously held).
-------------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------
What Does This Mean?
-Lower Concentrations of ZDDP
-Lower Concentrations of Phosphate
-Addition of Wear Additives & Friction Modifiers
*Friction Modifiers cause wet clutch slippage
Ok, So What Does THAT ^ Mean??
-Anyone whose bike has a Wet Clutch (99% of us) should consider discontinuing their usage of Shell Rotella/Rotella T Motor Oils, or any other Automotive/Diesel oil with an API SM Rating Sticker/Logo on the back of the bottle. |
Zac4mac
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 13, 2010 - 09:05 pm: |
|
From the Owners Handbook, on page 88 it refers to a "normal" ambient range of 65-95 dF.
Then on page 100 it says 10W-40 for an ambient below 40 dF, 20W-50 above that.
Since Phoenix is above 95 dF from May to October, yes a heavier oil may be warranted.
Zack |
Captainkgb
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 13, 2010 - 09:17 pm: |
|
Rotella T still contains no or almost no friction modifiers, and meets JASO MA spec for wet clutch apps. T6 does require more frequent oil changes than a class 4 full synthetic.
I run this oil in my Vics and may do so in my 1125 when it is out of warranty.
1125 gets mobil 1 20w50 mc oil for now. |
Dannybuell
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 14, 2010 - 12:37 am: |
|
read this link and download the white paper from the link for even more detail.
Shear stability is viscosity loss based on heat and time.
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/mcv.aspx |
Metalrabbit
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 14, 2010 - 10:15 am: |
|
Thanks Danny,, quite revealing yeah? Syn3 did better than I thought it would. I dumped the Syn3 on my second oil change and it came out looking like miniature fish eggs it was so foamed up.
I used Amsoil from then on and it comes out like hot maple surple. |
Clk92vette
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 14, 2010 - 01:36 pm: |
|
I am about to perform my 600 mile oil change on my '08 1125r. I was curious to research the different oil's available and ran across an interestring article. They did testing on different grades and brands to determine the following:
1) Synthetic is signifcanly better than conventional oil.
2) There is a difference between the brands.
3) When you buy motorcycle specific oil, you do not get any notable benefit for the 120% cost increase.
Here's the thread: http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/oiltest1.htm |
Thefleshrocket
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 14, 2010 - 02:25 pm: |
|
Mr_incognito,
In my experience, any oil that does not say Energy Conserving on the API donut does not contain friction modifiers and is therefore safe for wet clutches. I have only seen the Energy Conserving rating on oils that are 30W or lower (IE 5W30, 0W20, etc). Where did you find that Shell is specifically putting friction modifiers in a 40W oil? |
Mr_incognito
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 14, 2010 - 02:58 pm: |
|
Thats just an article that somebody posted up on our local sportbike forums, knowing that a lot of people run that oil. Im not sure where he got it, and I dont even know how true it is....ive never used that stuff because im overly anal about my oil. I just thought it might be worth a read to some of you guys who use that stuff. |
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