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Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » Archive through May 06, 2010 » Archive through April 15, 2010 » Uly running without power « Previous Next »

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Mattmcc00
Posted on Tuesday, April 13, 2010 - 10:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Ok so I added in about 4 table spoons of 5w-30 (thats all I had, and without transportation was the best I could do). When I started her up the oil light turned on, then off, then on, then off, then came back on after 2 mins of idling. So I added in another 2 tablespoons of 5w-30. Then I started her up and the light turned off.

Ok so thats good news, now I can go to the store and buy proper oil, a filter, some loctite, and a new o-ring (just in case).

But, no... something else is very wrong, The big has lost most og its power I have to open the throttle 3/4 to aviod stalling in first gear! also, even when I crank open the trottle wide open there bearly is any power, feels like I am running on 1 cylinder. Bike backfires upon releaseing the throttle.

Temperature was 6 celsius, sunny.

I think I am still on warrenty, I bought this bike in March its a 2008 and I think the warrenty expires in May. I wonder if i can ride it like this the 20km to the dealer?

Any ideas on what could be wrong?
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Etennuly
Posted on Tuesday, April 13, 2010 - 10:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

We are missing some information. What was happening before you added the oil? What year is the bike?
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Froggy
Posted on Tuesday, April 13, 2010 - 10:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Fouled plug or bad plug wire.
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Etennuly
Posted on Tuesday, April 13, 2010 - 10:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

OK, I found you on the other thread. It sounds like you just fouled a plug. A normal thing for a bike that is started and shut off several times while not warmed up.

Start the bike, within seconds you can note, by wetting and quickly touching the header pipe with your fingers, which one gets hot(very hot) and the one that is not running will be cold.
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Mattmcc00
Posted on Tuesday, April 13, 2010 - 10:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Sorry, here is more info:

2008 XB12X, bought in March with 13,000km, now has 14,000km. Previous owned stated having changed the oil.

Yesterday morning the oil light came on and after about 35sec of idling didn't shut -off so I shut off the bike. Buewulf suggested I add in a little bit of oil.

So this morning I added in some oil, with the plan of beeing able to ride it to the store to get what I need to make a proper oil change with AMSoil.

I can check the wires this evening.

Also, can plugs get fouled if you dont play with the throttle when you try and start it (which I never do)?
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Mikef5000
Posted on Tuesday, April 13, 2010 - 10:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Yes, but being an 08, there is a procedure to clean the plugs....

Here it is:
To clean the plugs, kill switch on RUN position, Hold throttle at WIDE OPEN, turn key switch ON (don't hit starter). The ignition fires for four seconds and cleans the plugs.

(Message edited by mikef5000 on April 13, 2010)
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Mattmcc00
Posted on Tuesday, April 13, 2010 - 10:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

THis is very interesting Mikef5000. let me see if I got this straight:

1. I insert key in locked position,
2. I set kill to ON,
3. I turn the throttle to maximum WIDE OPEN and hold it there,
4. While holding the throttle WIDW OPWEN, I turn the key to the ON position,
5. I keep holding the throttle WIDE OPEN until the ignition has fired for 4 seconds,

At this point what is step 6.? do I need to leave the bike stand in ON position, turn the key back to lock? or hit starter button and start her up?

Thx,
MMcC
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Mikef5000
Posted on Tuesday, April 13, 2010 - 11:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

After the 4 second fire, the bike should go back to like normal. Meaning you could do anything you listed. If you're ready for a ride, release the throttle and hit the starter. If not. Turn the key back off and walk away.

Just don't start it, let it idle for a bit, then shut it off again. That's most likely where your problem came from in the first place.
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Xbimmer
Posted on Tuesday, April 13, 2010 - 11:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Previous owned stated having changed the oil.

Did you check it then and/or since?

My brother bought his first R90S from an original owner who had "just serviced it". Tranny started making noises on the ride home. He pulled the plug, bone dry. After adding oil that tranny went 200K with no problems, tough s.o.b.

Hope the oil light just meant it was low in volume...
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Swampy
Posted on Tuesday, April 13, 2010 - 12:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

When the oil light goes on it means it is low on pressure......Bad!
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Tootal
Posted on Tuesday, April 13, 2010 - 05:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

If your tappets didn't collapse then you still didn't hurt anything. Roller bearing cranks have their good points!
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Two_buells
Posted on Tuesday, April 13, 2010 - 06:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

SPARK PLUG CLEAN

Automatic

Starting the engine without running it up to operating temperature
can foul the spark plugs. To execute a spark plug clean,
the ECM rapidly fires the spark plug up to three times without
enabling a start.
The ECM records the number of starts without running up to
operating temperature. After five starts without running up to
operating temperature, the ECM will automatically execute a
spark plug clean before starting the engine.

Manual

If fouled plugs are suspected, a spark plug clean can be initiated
manually . Repeat the following sequence three times:
1. Roll and hold the throttle wide open.
2. Turn the ignition to ON.
3. Wait three seconds.
4. Release the throttle grip.
5. Turn the ignition to OFF.
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Mattmcc00
Posted on Wednesday, April 14, 2010 - 10:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Ok so I did the spark plug auto-clean proceadure last night, and nothing.

I started up the engine and I can confirm that the front cylinder stays cold, and the back one gets hot.

I rolled and held the throttle wide open,
and turned the key to ON,
the dash lights turned on and the dials self-checked,
Then, the engine light turned on then off 7 times and then stayed off; all of this without any other perceivable effects (no sounds, etc.),
then I released the throttle and repeated 5 times.

still nothing.

I have an appointment with my Harly/BMW dealer (because calling them a Buell dealer would be an insult to Buell) to get the comfort kit re-flash done tomorrow morning. Bike is still under warranty untill April 25th (10 days). Would cleaning fouled plugs be covered under warranty?

Do you beleive I can drive my bike on 1 cyclinder the 15km drive to the dealer?
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Oldwesterncowboy
Posted on Wednesday, April 14, 2010 - 10:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

did you pull the plug and look at it.

the front one is the easy one to get too.

However, when I first got my Buell I had fouled the plugs. twice.

when I pulled the wires off, they came off at both ends. so check the connections.

I found the hard way that
only start it if your gonna ride it. and dont touch the throttle at start up until your off and riding.
especially if the ambient temp. is below 50
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Oldwesterncowboy
Posted on Wednesday, April 14, 2010 - 10:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

oh and the first time I fouled the plugs

I rode mine on one cylinder for about 10miles before I realized something was wrong.

it was 40 degrees and I needed gas. I thought it was underpowered but figured it was just cold.
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Mnrider
Posted on Wednesday, April 14, 2010 - 11:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Like Owc says you can replace that front plug by removing your left side scoop.
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Mattmcc00
Posted on Wednesday, April 14, 2010 - 11:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Really? I was under the impression that I had to remove the airbox cover, and the actualt airbox to get at it?
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Mattmcc00
Posted on Wednesday, April 14, 2010 - 12:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

In the event that I cannot get my plug out, or whatever, Do you think I can drive it on 1 cyclinder the 15km to the dealer?
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Mnrider
Posted on Wednesday, April 14, 2010 - 12:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Yes but the gas that it not being burnt in the cyl. goes in the oil so the oil should be changed.
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Mattmcc00
Posted on Wednesday, April 14, 2010 - 01:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Ok thats good to know, and in fact I have asked them to change the oil.
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Mattmcc00
Posted on Thursday, April 15, 2010 - 09:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Found a Firebolt service manual on american biker. With it I was able to pull the front spark plug in less than 10mins, simple job when you know how and have the right tools.

My spark plug was really black and smelled heavily like gas. I sprayed it with electrical contact cleaner, wiped it, sprayed somemore, then let it soke in it while I had supper. Dryed it off with some compressed air, filled the contacts, then gapped it to .9mm (SAE .035), put some Dielectric grease on the tip and slipped her back into her socket. Not sure if i should have given her some loctite blue or not?? opted for not.

Runs like a charm now.

Drove her to the dealer this morning for ECM re-flash, and asked them to change the oil & filter while they are at it. I brought some AMSoil 20w50 for them to use.

That should make her feel better.

Thx all for your comments & advice.
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Etennuly
Posted on Thursday, April 15, 2010 - 05:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

No lock tight. It is important to use antisieze on those threads and torque them as properly as you can, given the circumstances of their locations.

The steel of the spark plug and the aluminum of the head can make for a bad combination if done improperly. The steel is much harder than the aluminum, thus over tightening can rip the threads out of the head. Under torquing can result in the plug coming loose and leaking compression(which you can hear as like an exhaust leak on the compression stroke). If they get too loose the plug will be hammered in and out with the in and out stroke of the piston which can also result in the threads being ripped from the hole. Not a good situation either way.

I would recommend that while you have it in for the for the other services, ask them to put in a new set of plugs. Once the electrode of a plug has been wetted, cleaned, and reinstalled, it may run better than it did, but it will be much better with a new set in there.
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