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Kirb
| Posted on Saturday, April 10, 2010 - 03:40 pm: |
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Decided to attempt to make a pod much better looking while waiting for the replacement.... worked through 120,220,400,600,800,1000,1500,2000 grit before moving a buffer with Novus #2, then a clear coat glaze. Not for the faint of heart or for the lack of spare time. start
![](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290431/554570.jpg) a little rough rub out
![](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290431/554571.jpg) closer
![](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290431/554572.jpg) closer
![](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290431/554573.jpg) close enough
![](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290431/554574.jpg) Not perfect, but you can't tell unless you focus on the pod and look for the 2-3 short deep scratches that were left. The goal was to take the eye away from what was in the first pic. |
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Cjr83
| Posted on Saturday, April 10, 2010 - 04:30 pm: |
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GOOD JOB |
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03fatboy
| Posted on Saturday, April 10, 2010 - 04:39 pm: |
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Great job that definitely looks much better! |
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Jules
| Posted on Saturday, April 10, 2010 - 04:46 pm: |
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That's an astonishing job, really well done! |
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Fierrosc
| Posted on Saturday, April 10, 2010 - 05:36 pm: |
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You should start a business, plastic repairs, as long as you can do it for less than a new one you could make some money doing cosmetic repairs. |
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Hogzilla
| Posted on Saturday, April 10, 2010 - 09:32 pm: |
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In about 7 years this will be your only option. Good to get the practice in now. Great job! |
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Puzzled
| Posted on Saturday, April 10, 2010 - 10:18 pm: |
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Nice job! |
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Kevinjgray88
| Posted on Sunday, April 11, 2010 - 07:06 pm: |
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do you start at the rough grit and work to the smaller grit? |
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1_mike
| Posted on Sunday, April 11, 2010 - 07:52 pm: |
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Kevin - "?" Kirb - Excellent work. Mike (Message edited by 1_mike on April 11, 2010) |
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Kevinjgray88
| Posted on Sunday, April 11, 2010 - 09:22 pm: |
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he said he used different grit sandpaper. i was wondering if you would start at the rougher grit paper and worked your way to the finer stuff or the other way around |
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Steeleagle
| Posted on Sunday, April 11, 2010 - 09:31 pm: |
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I just went through the same process and grit sequence, tossing in some wet editions as well. I feel your pain, but the results are rewarding. Nice work. Patience is the key. Do NOT look at a clock while you're doing it or the results will suffer! Question: Has anybody figured out a way to dress up the scoop plastic (the assembly in front of the pod plastic) to remove scratches/gouges and make it look more presentable while maintaining the factory grained finish? |
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Jules
| Posted on Monday, April 12, 2010 - 06:44 am: |
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he said he used different grit sandpaper. i was wondering if you would start at the rougher grit paper and worked your way to the finer stuff or the other way around Kevin - start with the roughets first and work your way up the grades to the smoothest. To get a job anywhere near this good you'd need a LOT of patience |
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Kirb
| Posted on Monday, April 12, 2010 - 09:35 pm: |
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FYI...all grits from 220 to 2000 were done 'wet'. It's easier to keep an even surface and wash away the plastic with a water base. The paper gets clogged too easy without water. You can start to use Novus 2 as the lube once you get 1000 or higher. I was also using a magic eraser as a sanding 'block' for 800+ grits. Kirb (thanks for the props, I thought for sure I'd have more 'why bother?' posts than 'good job') |
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Dipstick
| Posted on Monday, April 12, 2010 - 09:50 pm: |
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Steel, just sand the front scoop to get scratches out. It will discolor and turn a lite, ugly, gray-white color. Clean with alcohol. Then take a big black Marks-a-lot and mark it on the discolored area and quickly rub it in with your thumb as it's drying. It does a surprising decent job. Works for mirror plastic housings too. |
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