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99x1
| Posted on Friday, June 27, 2003 - 11:01 pm: |
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My speedo sensor recently died, and after a bit of searching I found the Allegro ATS660LSB gear tooth sensor that costs $6.01 US from Newark. I drilled the dead sensor out from the top (using a 3/8" drill bit) until I hit the magnet. I then drilled a small hole through the bottom, and using a punch knocked the magnet out the top. I then drilled through with a 23/64" drill bit (~9mm) to fit the new sensor. After attaching wires, I glued the sensor (flush with bottom face) into the old plastic holder (using crazy glue), and fixed the wires with Loctite ColdWeld. . Works well, will have to see how it holds up... |
99x1
| Posted on Friday, June 27, 2003 - 11:08 pm: |
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I also noted that when the bike is first turned on, the fuel pump seems to create a lot of noise on the speedo sensor output wire - but is nice and clean after a few seconds...
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Ocbueller
| Posted on Saturday, June 28, 2003 - 07:14 pm: |
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99X1, Sure sounds like your onto a couple of breakthroughs here. As a fellow 99X1 owner, I sure do appreciate your efforts to aid us by sharing your findings. SteveH |
99x1
| Posted on Sunday, June 29, 2003 - 08:16 am: |
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"...do appreciate your efforts.." Thanks! The ATS660 geartooth sensor is a neat product(see ATS660). It is meant for automotive transmissions and is a newer design then the Harley part. If someone could make a cheap sensor holder that simply had a 23/64" (9mm) through hole to mount the sensor..... Block diagram of ATS660LSB |
Kahuna
| Posted on Sunday, June 29, 2003 - 10:36 am: |
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you are too much john! great stuff!! we missed you yesterday on our ride up to tobermory, a great day was had cheers...
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Reepicheep
| Posted on Sunday, June 29, 2003 - 05:47 pm: |
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Outstanding John... If that thing holds, then thats the best solution yet. So the new part is all self contained, and does not need the existing magnet? Thats great... Seems like a quick and easy way to do a replacement would be to just throw the old sensor in the drill press face up, drill a hole through the length of it that will allow the new sensor part to be a snug fit, thread in the new sensor with attached wiring, then pot the whole length of the hole with JB Weld or RTV Black. $6 is perfect. We need to get some of these things on "problem" bikes without filters so we can see if the upgraded part lives longer then the Harley one, or if it is nuked by the same phenomena that is eating the stock parts. Even if the new ones get baked just like the old ones, a $6 part with a filter makes a lot more sense then at $50 part with a filter. Awsome find. (and very cool handheld storage scope!) Bill |
Ocbueller
| Posted on Sunday, June 29, 2003 - 06:06 pm: |
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Ding, Ding, Ding! We have a winner! Has BADWEB devised any Medals to be awarded to Buell groundbreakers? SteveH |
99x1
| Posted on Sunday, June 29, 2003 - 07:51 pm: |
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(Kahuna: I'm working this weekend, couldn't make the ride, next time...) Reepicheep: The data sheet for the sensor shows using filters if powering from an unregulated source, and one of the failure modes of most sensors is shorting and blowing fuses - your regulator limits the current on shorts and would keep the bike running. Filtering is still a good idea with this sensor. Drilling right through is difficult - because the magnet is very hard to drill through, and all of it has to come out. The storage scope is a Fluke 199B/M ~$4K (paid by my employer) John |
Hootowl
| Posted on Sunday, June 29, 2003 - 11:19 pm: |
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And it matches your bike. Seriously though, I'm jealous. |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Monday, June 30, 2003 - 07:59 am: |
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It would keep the bike running, but I don't know how long the filter would survive, I have avoided putting a heatsink on it for size and cost reasons, though it it would be an easy enough addition. Without a heatsink, I don't know how long the regulator could handle a dead short. Of course, the part that would then fail would be a 50 cent regulator, so it is not a big deal. I etched a board with the new parts and layout last night, and am burn in testing it now. Seems to be working perfectly. I will need to try and optimize my procedures to be sure, but I think I can crank these things out pretty quickly now. I have parts on hand for making 20 more filters, though I am not sure I have enough material to fabricate that many boards. I am using this really cool setup called press-n-peel blue. It is resist painted onto a mylar sheet. You run it through your laser printer with your artwork, then use a household iron to bond it to coper clad PC board. Then peel it away, and it is ready to etch. I thought I had a pile of it left, but it looks like I used most of it up, and I will have to mail order more. I should be able to get 10 out anyway, and that is more then enough to cover outstanding requests. I'll order more supplies this week. John... if you send me a shipping address (email me offline, email in my profile) I will send you one of the filters. My scope is *decidedly* non-portable, and has no storage capability. I would like to see the results of a live on-bike test, and it looks like you are in a good position to do that. I did bench testing, and introduced enough noise on the input that I was seeing RF on the scope and still not seeing any noise on the output, but it would still be nice to have a live test.
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Blake
| Posted on Thursday, July 03, 2003 - 04:09 am: |
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Bill, Your brother in filters on UKBEG is charging 35 quid (like $58) for his filters! The sensors there apparently sell for $91. Buell will probably be somewhere in between. How much were you planning to charge for your new improved versions? |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Thursday, July 03, 2003 - 08:00 am: |
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So far they have all been pro bono. I was able to get the parts from a local surplus place for like pennies on the dollar, so I have maybe $5 in parts. The PC boards I am fabricating probably end up running me about $1 each by the time I am done with them. The rub is assembly. By using the PC boards I can get it down to 30 to 45 minutes per board (fabricate the PC board, solder in the parts, add the pigtails, and pot the assembly with liquid electrical tape). I have been shipping the thing first class USPS, so that runs like $1 or something. So the parts cost is basically still background noise. Up to this point, it has been an interesting and enjoyable excercise. Doing home engineering projects like this keeps me sharp for and breaks up the monotony my "real" work (which is all software). But with three kids and a 2 hour per day work commute, my ability to make these things on a timely basis will be limited. I am already getting a little backed up, my 1 day turnaround time is now up to a week or two. I have no interest in charging for reasons that I won't bore the board with. It's a a really easy call, and not a big deal. But I also will be pretty limited in how many of these things I can put together per week, so the backlog might get ugly. And I have a family vacation coming up, and a transmission that likely needs a new shift drum and 2nd and 3rd gear pair, and a rear tire carrying a nail that needs to be pulled and patched, so things will get worse not better. If anyone else wants to build them, I will be happy to post all necessary information, including the board artwork. It would also be really easy for me to send out kits with all the parts and instructions, but nothing soldered, either with or without the PC boards. Assembly time is what's killing me, I have done all the work to round up sources for cheap parts and a decent PC board fabrication setup, and that stuff scales really well... I could get the parts for and make the boards for 50 kits in an afternoon easy, but assembling that many in my available time would take weeks. So the short answer is the assembled filters are free, but may not be timely (though most have been so far). Kits are free and will ship very quickly. Plans and schematics are free and are available by just scrolling up. Just another reason BadWeb is better then all the other Buell sites! |
Hootowl
| Posted on Thursday, July 03, 2003 - 09:02 am: |
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Reep, you truly are a noble mouse. |
Bluzm2
| Posted on Thursday, July 03, 2003 - 11:09 am: |
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Bill, I'd be happy to do the assembly on mine. If you want, you can ship a bunch to me and I'll do the assembly and get them back to you for distribution. It's the least I can do to do my part. Ping me at my email in my profile, I'll get you my address ASAP. Brad
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Reepicheep
| Posted on Thursday, July 03, 2003 - 11:21 am: |
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Fantastic Blue, thanks! I have to order more supplies to etch more boards, but I can get you enough to do your own bike and a few extra anyway. It will be a huge help. I have your mailing address from a previous email, I will just ship everything out.
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Bluzm2
| Posted on Thursday, July 03, 2003 - 03:53 pm: |
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Glad to help Bill. Just give me a rough pic of the finished product and or a schematic and I'll do the rest. Brad |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Friday, July 04, 2003 - 09:20 pm: |
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OK everyone... I have a great big pile of filters ready to ship. I am leaving on vacation, and will probably have to ship them from the road, so I don't know how good a directions I will be able to include. Anyway, just in case, the black wire is ground, hook it to black. The green wire is V+, it goes to the Red wire (V+ from the bike). The white wire is the signal wire, it just passes straight through, and hooks to the white wire. So anyway, black to black, white to white, green to red. I will mark the input and output sides, but just in case the stickers get lost, the side with the LED is the output (low voltage regulated) side, but the wires cross and come out opposite sides. So the wire that is attached to the board near the LED but comes out of the assembly opposite the LED is the output wire. The other side (the one attached opposite the LED and that comes off the assembly on the LED end) is the input wire that comes from the bikes wiring harness. The directions may not be up to my normal high standards, but I got everyones filters built and exhausted my on hand supplies. I figure a filter in hand with directions to come is better then a nice read and another blown sensor. Blue M2... I just built you one. If another batch of "orders" come in before the Buell part comes out, I will ship you a pile of kits and we can split the work for the next round. Thanks for your offer to help. Bill
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Dan
| Posted on Saturday, July 05, 2003 - 03:00 pm: |
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Speed sensor stopped working last week, i think i will try the solution from 99X1 with the allegro sensor if i can find one. Other one i might try is a complete sensor from Honeywell,didn't have the time yet to check if it is the same as Buell uses. I live in europe and pay 85 euro for the buell part and 50 for the Honeywell. I'll include some links if anybody is interrested. http://catalog.sensing.honeywell.com/pdbdownload/images/1gt105dc.pdf
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Reepicheep
| Posted on Saturday, July 05, 2003 - 10:16 pm: |
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The part looks close, but is missing an o-ring. Let us know if you try it and it works. I think 99x1's approach, with a filter, is the way to go. |
99x1
| Posted on Sunday, July 06, 2003 - 08:48 am: |
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The Honeywell GT1 has an outside diameter on the portion that sides into the transmission of ~18mm, the Buell part is 15mm and sticks into the transmission about 29-30mm. Send me your mail address - I will solder leads to an ATS660, and send it. (a beta tester!) Could someone who also owns a Sportster, hold an AM radio (with earphones) near the bike (tune off station about mid-band) - and compare the noise to their Buell? (The loud grinding sound through the radio when you first turn on a fuel injected Buell is normal fuel pump noise). TIA. |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Monday, July 07, 2003 - 06:04 pm: |
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Darthene... I need your shipping address to send out a filter. Sorry if you sent it already and I lost it, I packed up everything before going out of town and it is probably sitting at home on my desk... Email me (email in profile) before tomorrow afternoon and it will go out then, as will everyone elses. Bill
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Dan
| Posted on Tuesday, July 08, 2003 - 11:26 am: |
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99x1 Allegro ATS660 is not in production anymore. What do you think about the new ATS665LSG,could this be a replacement? I can get this sensor in 2 days. |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Tuesday, July 08, 2003 - 04:06 pm: |
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All outstanding filter requests (except Darthene) went out this afternoon via first class USPS, should be there by the weekend. If anyone who needs one has not gotten one by the middle of next week, email an address and I will ship one out. I tried to keep all the requests straight, but could have missed a couple.
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99x1
| Posted on Tuesday, July 08, 2003 - 05:28 pm: |
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(Newark has 297 ATS660's in stock) The ATS665 has the sensor face at 90 degs to the leads, you may have to figure a different way to mount it? Possibly the leads can be bent around - it is slightly smaller (8mm vs 9mm) - the internal block diagram looks the same.... |
99x1
| Posted on Wednesday, July 09, 2003 - 06:43 am: |
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BTW, the sensor has to be oriented so the gear moves in line with the pins (ie from pin 1 to pin 4 or pin 4 to pin 1) - as there are two sensors in the face. The ATS665 is also less expensive - $4.87 US, but doesn't seem to be stocked. I think a small shielded flexible microphone cable could be used from the sensor up to the speedometer - the speedometer has small ring terminals on screws, which would bypass the expensive Duetsch connectors. If someone knows of an inexpensive way to make a sensor holder..... |
M2me
| Posted on Tuesday, July 22, 2003 - 10:41 pm: |
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It finally happened to me!! Speedometer sensor died on my 2001 M2! It happened tonight at 11,254 miles. Seems like it lasted a long time compared to other stories I've read. I should say that I'm assuming it's the speedo sensor. The tach works and the odometer still displays 11254 miles but I'm always going 0 mph and I'm not adding any more miles (I mean when I'm riding it, not when it's parked in the garage ). This is the classic speedo sensor failure right? I'm going to take it out and try cleaning it. I figure it's worth a shot but I have a feeling it's going to have to be replaced. For now I think I'll just replace it and worry about filters later. Isn't there supposed to be a "new and improved" sensor available? |
Bluzm2
| Posted on Wednesday, July 23, 2003 - 01:08 am: |
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John, It's toast. A new one is about $50. Put the filter on it as part of the install. I've got a spare if you want it. I'll get another one for the Blast. I've already put one on my M2. The S2 doesn't need one! Brad |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Wednesday, July 23, 2003 - 07:51 am: |
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M2me... Have not heard of the new sensor/filter assembly hitting retail yet, but it should be any day now. Email me offline if you don't want to wait, I still have a few of the last run of filters built and ready to ship. The filter with the old part will probably be functionally identical to what the factory will produce (and likely a little better, I threw more parts at it then were likely necessary). Factory part will probably have a cleaner install though (mine needs 2-3 cuts in wires and 4-6 joints). Email address in profile. |
Hootowl
| Posted on Wednesday, July 23, 2003 - 08:36 am: |
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Reep, I just gave my Blast! to a buddy of mine in Oregon. Think you could save one of those filters for him? I don't have his address at the moment. Jeff |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Wednesday, July 23, 2003 - 09:05 am: |
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No problem. Wow! Giving away motorcycles... (note to self: Make friends with Hoot )
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