| Author | Message | ||
     Patagonia_101 |
I'm doing an engine rebuilt right now because of the same issue. I just finished splitting the case last night. Cost me about $100 in new tools and about 8 hours spread over a couple weeks. The tools I needed were: Clutch spring compressor, Primary locking bar, ball end allens (very important) and a couple large sockets (can't remember sizes right now). Definately cheaper to rebuilt then buy a new engine. And you never know what you'll get if you buy a used engine...might be back in the same situation. | ||
| Xb9rnutt |
Patagonia, Can you keep me up to date on how the job goes. Any insight and tip that are not mentioned in a book would be great. I'm thinking of doing the rebuild and then saving some money and maybe upgrading to the 12. | ||
| Xb9rnutt |
Well its out. Now this week I will tear into it. Took about 3 hours to get it out and clean up. I will post pics as I go along to get some advice so I hope everyone is ready for the questions.   | ||
| Hughlysses |
I think you should go shopping for an XBRR plant...  | ||
| Jstfkndi |
Patagonia, if you are well versed in rebuilding then it is worth it and depends on what you need. If you need a piston and some sleeves and a gasket kit...no problem. If you need a crank (like we are thinking it is)....well, it gets a bit pricier unless you are lucky enough to find a cheap one. Besides the cases, cranks are one of the most expensive items in the motor. Still fun to tear it apart and you never know until you check it out! I'll answer what I can for you XB9Rnutt. Happy wrenching! | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
Found this!! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Buell-Lightning-XB9 -XB-CRANK-SHAFT-CRANKSHAFT_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZ item1e5a368f82QQitemZ130362544002QQptZMotorcyclesQ 5fPartsQ5fAccessories http://buellsterparts.com/product.sc?productId=497 &categoryId=6 Good luck!  | ||
| Xb9rnutt |
Brother in Buells, Thank you!!! Is 2005 was the same as the 03. I think they are till 07 but I wanted to make sure. | ||
| B00stzx3 |
Engine rebuilding seems like a serious, super serious task but.. did the service manual tell you everything? | ||
| Xb9rnutt |
Well heads are off and so far everything is looking good. Hopefully by wednesday I'll have everything else apart. It sucks only having 2 hrs a night to work on it. | ||
| Jstfkndi |
B00stzx3: The manual gives a lot of details and is pretty decent at explaining the overall procedure. The only thing I would say is that I wish they had better photos and depending on what year you have there have been some updates. If you have any questions about certain items, this certainly is the place to ask. Alot of torque revisions, special lubricating procedures and other items are usually addressed when people are rebuilding. I know that the one thing I will say for sure is, take your time and be careful with the aluminum pieces!! Make sure your bolts are threaded properly and when in doubt if the torque specs don't seem tight enough....red locktite! The book is definitely a must if you are doing it by yourself and not experienced.  | ||
| Hughlysses |
Well heads are off and so far everything is looking good. Can you tell if the rod bearing is shot yet? | ||
| Crackhead |
I am tearing down my blast for a possible rebuild. How do you tell if the rod bearings are shot? I have a little bit of side to side rocking to the rod. | ||
| Fast1075 |
A little side to side on the small end is normal...the rod side clearance (big end of the rod) service limit is .030 you check the rod side clearance with a feeler gauge. (Message edited by fast1075 on April 06, 2010) | ||
| Xb9rnutt |
As far as the book goes I would agree with JST, it is a must. Hugh, At this point I cant tell everything is pretty tight. No play in the crank that I can tell. If someone knows of a way besides taking it completly apart and looking at the bearings and looking at the pin I'm game to hear it and try it out. This is my first engine job so I have been taking my time and reading everything the book and this web has to offer. | ||
| Xb9rnutt |
I will post some pics tonight so everyone can see what these things look like apart. | ||
| Jstfkndi |
You know....I just wrote this really great, long comment and...WTF??!! Hit post and thought it did. Oh well, if it is the crank pin on the primary side, then you will be able to tell by the gouging on the main shaft once you pull the magneto off. If there is alot of metal shaving around the area where the shaft sits in the bearing, then you may have to split the cases. If you have it out, I would go for it. If the crank is fine, then you are really only out about $10 for case sealant.  Besides, you can get a better look at the bearing and if it need to be replaced, cases will have to be split anyway. I think I split mine because of necessity and shear curiosity. You will learn alot just getting in there. Heres to much progress!  | ||
| Xb9rnutt |
Here are some pics   | ||
| Hughlysses |
Well, the insides are nice and clean. Be sure and install the heavy duty bronze oil pump drive gear while you're in there. | ||
| Xb9rnutt |
I'm hard pressed to find any shavings. But now I need that tool to hold the gear so I can get the nut off. Unless anyone know a way to do it without getting the tool to hold the gear. JST, tomorrow I will get the Magneto off and see how it looks there. FYI... I found out today that my wife has a bun in he oven so now my mind is going all over the place to wrap my head around everything. Wish me luck!!! | ||
| Hughlysses |
Hey, congratulations dad! | ||
| Jstfkndi |
Busy week!! Congrats!!  From what I can see in the pics on your crank pin, it doesn't look bad. Looks very clean all around and I don't see the gouges. Looks like you already got the magneto (stator cover) that I was talking about off. Did you get the tool? Oh, check the crank rod play as well. Give it a wiggle back and forth and see if it seems unusually loose. There are measurements in the book with a feeler gauge if you fell so inclined, but it is something to check. (Message edited by jstfkndi on April 07, 2010) | ||
| Xb9rnutt |
Thanks Guys, Its been 10 years since my daughter was born so now I have to learn the in's and out's of Baby raising all over again.  JST, I haven't got the tool yet I found one for 50 bucks on amazon that is including shipping. I'm going to check with the dealer today. But Man everything is tight from what I can see no play what so ever in the crank pin. No metal shavings I even took a magnet and placed it down under the crank and nothing. I was expecting to see the damage once I got in there but nothing so far. | ||
| B00stzx3 |
Jstfkndi: very cool mang!! Badweb can fill in the blanks  Good luck XB9nutt, if I had any advice I'd give it... | ||
| Jstfkndi |
Hahaha!Thanks! I wanted it as the license plate, but wasn't sure if DMV would comply. Might just still have to try! Xb9rnutt: I got 2 girls and was going for a boy, but realized I would just have more girl and I figured between my wife (at the time), the cat, and two daughters, my house had enough es-trojan in there. What's to say besides formula is more expensive and car seats are more complicated? Those are the only two for sures! | ||
| Xb9rnutt |
OMG... I have a nephew that is going to be 2 this year and the car set they have is crazy. What ever happend to a seat belt through the back it ordeal. Now it has to be welded to the car frame. Ok maybe thats a little overboard but you catch my point. | ||
| Xb9rnutt |
Well now I'm at a stand still until i get some tools. I have everything off that I can to split the case. I have the the crankshaft locking tool on its way. I do have a question why does it say I need a special socket for the transmission nut. It looks like its just a big nut. | ||
| Patagonia_101 |
 If by transmission nut you mean this nut...you don't have to remove that to split the case. Also, what did you use to lock the primary to get the engine sprocket nut off? If you throw the primary back in and lock it the same way you did to take it off, you don't need a separate locking tool for the nut on the cam gear side. | ||
| Xb9rnutt |
Pat that is the nut I was talking about. in the book it says to remove it. If I dont take it off do I need to remove the snap ring on the left side of the case. As far as the gear locking tool that locks the gear so I can remove the pinion nut. I was going to do as you mentioned but I thought when it comes to assembly i would have more control holding it while makeing sure its tight. Now after I do these two things is that it. The case should be able to come apart correct. | ||
| Patagonia_101 |
I'm surprised your service manual says you need to remove it...mine does not. What year is your bike? Mine is an '03...but I wouldn't think that would really change. I'm definitely not the expert though. If you look at the pictures of my case, you can see that the sprocket is still on and just slides away from the transmission.   I would do what you manual says though...I pretty sure it won't steer you in the wrong direction. | ||
| Xb9rnutt |
Maybe I was reading it wrong or just trying to take off more then need be. Kind of like the clutch basket. It says to to a bunch off stuff to take it off but really its a snap ring and a simple nut. No compression tool needed. Looks good by the way. So, have you been able to see that the crank and pin are bad? Or even the bearing? Mine is looking very clean and I dont feel any play or see any shavings. I guess I'm starting to feel worried because I was wanting to see some damage so I knew for sure it was the problem. |
