| Author | Message | ||
     Bishopjb1124 |
I am looking at an HID kit for my uly and am not sure which one I will need. The offer a single and double bulb kit. Which one do I need to get. They also offer a 35w and 55w. Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks Jimmy | ||
| Froggy |
http://www.ddmtuning.com/index.php?p=product&id=10 1&parent=85 55W, H7, 4300K. Use those options for the most output. Damn, they dropped the price again, its half what I paid a year and a half ago for my first kit, I need to stock up for my 1125R, 1125CR and Blast | ||
| Bishopjb1124 |
Awesome thanks. Exactly the website I was looking at also. Wasn't sure if I could post the website. Thanks Jimmy | ||
| Rwven |
VVME has worked well for me. http://www.vvme.com/ | ||
| Eulysses |
Forgive my ignorance in advance (FMIIA?) but where do those lights mount? Do you need shells for em? And where do the ballasts go? | ||
| Bishopjb1124 |
Bulbs replace your stock bulbs. Ballasts mount behind your windscreen. Jimmy | ||
| Rwven |
Spring for the compact ballasts. I didn't and fitting two full sized ballast behind the flyscreen is a PITA. I mounted one ballast horizontally over the headlight unit, that helped. I went with 35W units on my bike. They still put out far more light than stock and don't require using relays and such. A little less drain on the Buell's not much over adequate charging system. I would recommend 4500-5000K for the color temperature. I ordered 6000K and they are "too" white, almost blue. The perceived light at the lower color temperatures is better. (Message edited by rwven on March 29, 2010) | ||
| Dynasport |
OK, just to show my ignorance, here are some dumb questions. Do you replace both hi and low beams? Do you not blind the oncoming drivers? And since the reflectors are made for a different bulb, do they direct the light efficiently? Finally, do you fry your reflectors with these HIDs? Thanks. | ||
| Svh |
Dyna- 1) Some people only replace one some both. Its your call really. 2) They are quite bright but I am not sure about blinding oncoming. They will see you though. 3) They reflect the light wonderfully. This lighting system is so much better at lighting the road you will be amazed you waited as long as you may have to do the swap. 4) I haven't yet but I have heard of people frying the reflectors with stock bulbs on here. Hope that helped a little | ||
| Rwven |
Yes (the high beam takes a few secs to come on full when cold but refires quickly when hot, I've also done the conversion so the low stays on with the high.), Not on low beam but high will fry retinas , they seem to have a better light pattern with the HIDs than with the stock halogens, No problems with fried reflectors after a year of use. | ||
| Ronmold |
Here's how I did mine: http://s678.photobucket.com/albums/vv141/ronmold/U ly%20HID%20install/?albumview=slideshow Reflective signs will light up like they had bulbs inside them 1/4 mile away. The 4300 to 5000k is the best light for really seeing at night. Still. some put in the blue/violet in their UJM crotch rockets for that "cool" effect but we don't need to add anything just to make our bikes cool, we ride Uly's! | ||
| Mnrider |
Holy crap $35 and $16 shipping for the 2 bulb kit. I think I'll order the 35W 4500 kit. Does that sound like the right kit. It says 3400 lumens and a stock bulb is 900-1200 lumens (Message edited by mnrider on March 30, 2010) | ||
| Svh |
Thats very cheap. The kit is correct. For that little money add on the slim ballasts if they aren't included. | ||
| Mnrider |
The kit comes with the slim ballasts. I ordered the wire harness also on sale for $10.  | ||
| Xb12xmike |
My low beam bulb blew the other day so I picked the 55 Watt 4500K,.. I just clicked Froggy's link and bought that kit. After that I looked around at the site and was worried that I bought the wrong product but called and the kits are the same (slim ballast: car/motorcycle). | ||
| Rwcfrank |
Mnrider do you have the part number for the wiring harness? Is it specifically for the ULY? | ||
| Froggy |
Its a CAR wiring harness. I posted this this morning on another thread
| ||
| Rwven |
With the 35W units there is no need to beef up the wiring harness that I can see. Just go plug and play. | ||
| Towpro |
Here is how I did it.  When in Low beam mode, the bike wires send voltage to low beam and the diode does nothing. When in High beam mode, the bike wires send voltage to the high beam, and the diode conducts, sending voltage to the low beam bulb. Since all high/low switches have some overlap, the low beam never shuts off. (I think this overlap is required by law so your headlight don't momentarily turn off during low/high or high/low transition. My 35w HID lights draw 5amp at start up and 3 while running. I wanted to use a 10a diode (common in solar cell installs), but I only had 6amp diodes so I used 2 of them. (But the way diodes work, only 1 is probably passing current). I put the diode under the fly screen, on the bike side of the headlight assembly wire connector where the wires are heaver gauge. This circuit has several design features. It is simple (KISS no relays),and during engine cranking, both lights still go off. If I was to install a relay, I would only need to put it on the high beam side before the diode because the low beam wire only ever sees the load of 1 bulb. The flash to pass still works, in fact when you first apply power to a HID it flashes like a flash bulb on a camera. Now I am 99% sure I drew the diode in this picture in the correct direction. All that will happen if it is backwards is the high beam will come on when selecting low beam. I have around 1000 problem free miles on this setup. (Message edited by towpro on March 31, 2010) | ||
| Mnrider |
For $10 I wanted to have the harness just in case but it sounds like I won't need it. The part# for the harness is in Froggy's link. Thanks for the info guys. | ||
| Xb12xmike |
Will I have a problem using the 55watt kit? I intend to wire a relay from the battery to power them. Not 100% on how it will be wired in. I should get the kit this week. I have 2 relays I got from Americansportbike.com, one was to be used for my recently installed heated grips but I haven't used it yet. | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
Mikef5000 showed me his set up last night... I think you could have cooked a hotdog in front of it...... LOL | ||
| Bikertrash05 |
I have the 35W 5000k for my low beam, and I don't even need my stock high beam anymore, but I do have it wired for both on when high beam is on. I have mine wired like this, but I guess with only a 5amp draw at start up and 3amp constant, this is overkill:  | ||
| Nadz |
VVME H7's worked for me too. 35W x2 is more than sufficient! | ||
| Ronmold |
Diode is simple but some drawbacks, it probably gets hot, A diode will lose .6 volts or so (not really a problem with HID's except on startup), and now your switch has to handle 2 loads on one set of contacts. To me it's almost as easy to tie into the blue wire ( you have to cut into the taped up loom but it tapes back up easily) that goes to the LH control cluster. Now you have both lights powered off the lighting fuse like they were, but lows stay on. Take a look at this kill relay drawing, very handy for doing mods & service as it keeps the lights off when doing several start/stops, a time you don't want your HID's cycling repeatedly. If you have the H/L switch on H when turning on the key, lights stay off. Switch to L and the relay engages and lights are normal.  (Message edited by ronmold on March 31, 2010) | ||
| Towpro |
For those of you reading these posts, and wondering why we are even messing with the wiring, here is why: HID lights need a second or 2 before they are at full brightness. Your riding along with your low beam on, you think to yourself "boy these HID's are amazingly bright!" then you switch to high beam; what happens is the high beam comes on real dim, but your low beam just went out, and for what feels like a couple seconds, your riding with less light then the stock bulbs  . Maybe it's not that dim, but after riding with HID's it feels like you just turned off all the lights. Then you experience the same thing when you switch back to low beam. If the bulb filament is still hot, it brightens pretty quick, but I notice after as little as 30 seconds the bulb cools off enough that you experience this "dark" factor while switching beams. By keeping your low beam on all the time, you don't experience this "darkness". I do like the design Ron uses, it is on my "to do" list. | ||
| Froggy |
Or just do the pin swap in the headlight connector to put the low beam on the Euro bulb line and be done with it? | ||
| Rwven |
Or just do the pin swap in the headlight connector to put the low beam on the Euro bulb line and be done with it? That's working for me. | ||
| Motorfish |
With the pin swap, you can still run HIDs, with the low beam always on. right? That sounds like the easiest way to do it. | ||
| Mikef5000 |
HID lights need a second or 2 before they are at full brightness. or 20. | ||
| Commissar |
I love my Uly, but I have to say that the lights on the bike is mediocre, so I’m looking into ways to improve it. Maybe you guys can help me out. If possible I would like to use both lights for hi and low beam. If I remember right the Uly uses a H7 bulb. Is it possible to have a H7 bulb that incorporates both hi and low beam? I have been looking at the MC-kits at DDM tuning. http://www.ddmtuning.com/index.php?p=catalog&paren t=61&pg=1 The set that have both hi and low beam uses H4 bulbs. Is it at all possible to fit those on the Uly? If it’s not possible to have both hi/low beam in both lights, I understand that it is still a good idea to have make sure the low beam stays on when you turn on the high beam. What kind of setup have you guys used? Will the 55w system generate too much heat? Could it be an idea to have a 35 w on the low beam and a 55w on the high beam? Thanks in advance, |
