| Author | Message | ||
     Mrzifear |
I went down to get a new set of tires put on the bike and all seemed fine. My girlfriend and I were watching when they worked on the bike and they were a little rough with the front tire change. It was the last bike of the night they were working on and we could tell they were in kinda a rush. so I went to go for a ride on the next saturday and the bike felt a little different but i was thinking it was just me not used to the new tires. I went out again Sunday and it still felt different. I stopped and pulled over and looked down and saw this. (it wasn't there on saturday because I was looking at the tires and didn't see it after my first ride)   Does anyone know what broke? Is it the wheel bearings? Could it be because they were rushing trying to get my bike out the door? They said they will look at it next saturday but I don't know if i can ride it down or should I tow it. mrzifear | ||
| Fresnobuell |
I don't know what that crud is, but I HATE when other people work on my bike. | ||
| Mountainstorm |
Sometimes the mechanic will grease the axle shaft. That might be grease spun out from the excess that glorped out when they installed the shaft. If you can rock the bike up on the stand so you can spin the front wheel and see if you feel any resistance or grittiness. My main concern with non Buell guys working on my bike is they might not know WTF they are doing and break it. Especially the front brake/caliper assembly. | ||
| Jdugger |
That could easily be excess lubricant/anti-seize coming out -- it's not necessarily bad. Can you pull the front wheel and take a looksie? I resisted getting into doing my own work until I got serious about track riding and it became a financial necessity. Now that I do my own work, I enjoy working on the motorcycle, and I'm proud of maintaining my own machinery. I whole heartedly recommend it; at least for me, taking pride in the workmanship of properly servicing the bike is part of the fun of ownership. All that is to say: Tires are really where you should start. A basic tool kit, front and rear stands, and a good torque wrench won't set you back $500 total, and I think you will be surprised how quickly you can "earn" that money back. | ||
| Jules |
+1 on it being grease or some other lubricant they used to get the axle back in.. I'd whip it off and clean it up and see what's what.. It may be nothing (fingers crossed). | ||
| Metalrabbit |
The bearings are the sealed type aren't they?. If so whats all the grease about? | ||
| Jdugger |
Standard procedure is to lightly coat the race and axle with a bit of anti-seize compound when reinstalling the axle. It don't take much, and any extra just oozes out all over everything. | ||
| Neufey |
Make sure you check the torque on the axle when you take it apart. I found the dealer substantialy overtorqued my rear axle the last time the installed it. so much so it actualy distorted the axle. had the replace it and the bearings. | ||
| Cherry_bomb |
looks pretty much like a broken bearing... | ||
| Endoman33 |
It's an antisize spray the tech puts on the axels when they reinstall a wheel from a tire change. Mine looks like that every time the tech who works on my bike changes a tire for me. | ||
| Illbuell |
I would say grease unless there is metal shavings in it.. Look at it closely and make sure you don't see any metal in it. | ||
| Andros |
its antiseize grease! Don't worry. Just wipe it off and ride... | ||
| Mountainstorm |
Wow I don't feel quite so iggerant now  | ||
| Dannybuell |
Almost all of the above. do not pressure wash or use chemicals. The water or chemicals might get into bearing area and contaminate grease. Just wipe it up with a cloth of some sort. You might have to do this for a couple rides before it settles down. | ||
| Two_buells |
For the 1125's Tighten the rear axle. a. Initially tighten to 31.2-36.6 Nm (23-27 ft-lbs). b. Back off two turns (720 degrees). c. Final tighten to 65.1-70.5 Nm (48-52 ft-lbs). d. Tighten pinch bolt to 54-61 Nm (40-45 ft-lbs). The front axle thread is a left hand thread. 3. Install front axle. a. See Figure 2-24. Apply a light coat of LOCTITE ANTISEIZE LUBRICANT to the threads and bearing surfaces of the axle and the right and left wheel bearing bores. b. With pinch fasteners loose, insert threaded end of axle through left side fork, wheel hub and thread into right fork. c. Thread in the front axle. 4. Install and finger tighten the front fenders fasteners. 5. Compress the front suspension to center the components and to check for binding. 6. Install the P-clamp fastener. 7. Tighten the fasteners: a. Caliper mounting bolts to 48-50 Nm (35-37 ft-lbs) b. Axle to 53-56 Nm (39-41 ft-lbs) c. Alternating between bolts, axle pinch bolts to 27-30 Nm (20-22 ft-lbs) d. Front fender fasteners to 8.4-9.3 Nm (74-82 in-lbs) e. P-clamp fastener to 4-7 Nm (36-60 in-lbs) (Message edited by two_buells on March 29, 2010) | ||
| Dcmortalcoil |
Note: the rear wheel on 1125 is also left hand threaded like the front. XB's have normal rear thread. Kind of make sense since the shaft is moved from the left side on 1125. |
