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Kevinjgray88
| Posted on Sunday, March 28, 2010 - 11:02 am: |
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i wanted to keep my swingarm, tire, etc. clear of soot and junk from the exhaust. i found tips but over 100 dollars!! thats insane. is there anything else someone has dont instead. thanks |
D_adams
| Posted on Sunday, March 28, 2010 - 11:23 am: |
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It depends on what you want it to look like really. You could throw a set of turnouts on it from autozone for $10, but it's not going to look right. You also run the risk of having either one or both fall off. Welding them on or replacing them is an option, but it's not a cheap one unless you do the welding yourself. If you can, then you can get straight stainless tubing relatively cheap, radiused tubing is a bit more, maybe $70 or so, but then you have to put time into it. To do the internal mod takes about 5 to 6 hours, plus painting. The external mod (replace the tips) takes about 2 hours. Time and materials costs. The mods are documented here, search for "stock exhaust modified" for researching it. |
Kevinjgray88
| Posted on Sunday, March 28, 2010 - 11:25 am: |
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so no matter what it involves welding |
Jules
| Posted on Sunday, March 28, 2010 - 11:43 am: |
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Not necessarily.. I bought a single 90 degree bend of the appropriate size SS tube and cut it in half across the bend... I ended up with two 45 degree curves with straight sections.. I trimmed them to the right length, drilled through them and drilled and tapped into the OEM outlets, slipped them on and bolted them down.. Cost me about $15 for the tube off eBay and about an hours work (if that). The item I bought was described as: 90 degree Mandrel bend 1.75" T304 Stainless Steel tube 1.75" was too small but luckily i already had a pipe expander (also really cheap to buy) so just opened the straight end up enough for it to be a tight fit over the OEM outlets... TBH they were so snug the drilling and tapping was probably not needed.. $15 and an hour of my time versus $100... easy decision.. (Message edited by Jules on March 28, 2010) |
Vinb
| Posted on Sunday, March 28, 2010 - 11:51 am: |
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Look into summitracing.com they got stuff that cheap in s.s. if you look for it. |
Jpinkerton
| Posted on Sunday, March 28, 2010 - 02:36 pm: |
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Jules, do you have any pictures of your modified stocker? |
Afhans
| Posted on Sunday, March 28, 2010 - 03:08 pm: |
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Jules, thanks for the idea. I'd like to see a pic of turnout job too. |
Jules
| Posted on Sunday, March 28, 2010 - 06:15 pm: |
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I didn't take any as I was doing it (oversight on my part) and I've heatwrapped it since (and subsequently removed the pipe to fit the Barker).. Here's a couple of pics, it looked better when fitted!
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Jules
| Posted on Sunday, March 28, 2010 - 06:21 pm: |
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One more thing I did before fitting them was to make some holes in the baffle plate by putting a VERY long screwdriver into the outlets and using a big rubber mallet to drive it through the baffle plate.. It made a bit of a difference (enough to satisfy my need for a bit more noise) and doing it that way meant I did not need to remove either the pipe or the rear wheel. I used the same rubber mallet to "force" the turnouts down the (pre-greased) OEM exxit tubes (hence what I said earlier about the drilling/tapping probably not being necessary).... (Message edited by Jules on March 28, 2010) |
Anakist
| Posted on Sunday, March 28, 2010 - 07:21 pm: |
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Here are mine. Just a mild steel 1.75" 90deg mandrel bend welded over the stock outlets and the whole thing powdercoated black.
James (Message edited by Anakist on March 28, 2010) |
Thurstonbuell
| Posted on Monday, March 29, 2010 - 09:15 am: |
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Here's what I made for about 3 bucks ....
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Tbenson
| Posted on Monday, March 29, 2010 - 10:47 am: |
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Purchased turn-outs for mine off of Ebay. Some say it was not worth the cash, I disagree, the cost was nothing for the purpose they serve, just my opinion though.
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Jules
| Posted on Monday, March 29, 2010 - 11:08 am: |
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Some say it was not worth the cash I think I fall into that camp.. I agree they do a great job but considering they take all of 15-20 mins to "make" and cost $10-15 in materials I don't think they're worth the (anything up to) $100 being charged. Yours do look significantly more "professional" than mine though so definately worth a premium |
Whynot
| Posted on Monday, March 29, 2010 - 11:46 am: |
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I'm with Tbenson on this one. Got 'em when they were around $80 on eBay. Not a metal worker myself. (On the other hand, I just installed ebay LED rear turn signals ($25/pr.) that needed resistors. Searching on badweb for resistor info, going to Radio Shack ($1.99 for two resistors), taxing my brain re. series vs. parallel wiring, then the easy part, hooking them up, and they work great ... maybe four hours later all told ... . Depends what you can do and like to do with your time, and money.) |
D_adams
| Posted on Monday, March 29, 2010 - 01:01 pm: |
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I guess this falls under the expensive option, but it's welded in place. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show .cgi?tpc=290431&post=1663551#POST1663551 |
Myotherbike
| Posted on Monday, March 29, 2010 - 01:16 pm: |
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Tbenson, I have been looking at those also, how do they attach to the pipe? Did you have them welded on? |
Tbenson
| Posted on Monday, March 29, 2010 - 02:10 pm: |
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No they are not welded, custom slip fit for my bike (first set made). Slim to no chance of mine coming off on their own, a very tight fit. Mine do not come off with just a tug, they have to be manipulated on or off (what I was looking for). The redesigned tips are attached with a hidden set screw for true fit, easier on and off. It was found that there is a slight variance in the size of the OEM tips from bike to bike, so the set screw was put into place, as I was told. |
Rex
| Posted on Monday, March 29, 2010 - 02:46 pm: |
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I like those, but always thought they were too expensive. they look like good quality though. |
Rex
| Posted on Monday, March 29, 2010 - 02:47 pm: |
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Does it affect the sound any? Probably too short to do? I was wondering if it thru more sound out to the side, where the cops sit along the road? |
Milleniumx1
| Posted on Monday, March 29, 2010 - 03:05 pm: |
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Tbenson, are those the satin aluminum variety on your white/blue machine? I couldn't hardly justify spending $85 bucks for turn-outs, until the first time I went to clean that back wheel after 1K miles. Pain in the a$$ indeed! I'm picky about how my bike looks, so I'm fine with spending a bit more to make it right. Mike |
Geforce
| Posted on Monday, March 29, 2010 - 06:36 pm: |
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I struggled with these same ideas for a long while. The biggest concern for me was while cost may be nice, I HATE adding rigged crap to vehicles that requires an extra eyeball on occasion. It's worth the frustration to just spend a little cash on the stock exhaust and have someone like D_adams make the bike look and sound great. Then when you do decided to take it to the track you don't have to worry about a clamped or wrapped rig falling off or vibrating loose...doesn't sound fun. Call me anal...but I have nothing but smiles now with the MT pipe Dean hooked me up with. If I were forced to rig something up though, I'd go Tbenson's route. Looks sharp and seems to be cost effective as well. The rest of the mods... well Redscuell had an exhaust mod that those remind me of. It was pretty entertaining to say the least. |
1125caffinatedracer
| Posted on Monday, March 29, 2010 - 07:21 pm: |
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Tbenson? Are those Direct Flow tips the stainless $109, or the $89 aluminized steel. I know stainless lasts longer. But I want that satin almost grey look like yours. Stainless, or Aluminized? Thanks |
Tbenson
| Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 12:21 am: |
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Mine are painted mild steel, a close match to the color of the shifter arm, and rear foot pegs, not exact, but close. I originally was going to paint them flat black, but I thought they looked good with the satin aluminum, so I left them alone. Yes they are Direct Flow tips. Sound seems to have changed a bit, but I can not swear to it. The cost was not an issue for me, considering the money and time spent to clean the wheel and other critical parts. Thanks for the compliments!!! |
Anakist
| Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 02:00 am: |
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I know on mine the high, harsh ka-ka-ka-ka has been removed. James |
Rex
| Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 02:52 am: |
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when you guys start your bike, does it pop? Mine pops everytime. |
Tbenson
| Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 09:24 am: |
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Not like a backfire, but yes it does have sort of a pop when the engine fires. During the cold months, it does backfire quite a bit before it finally starts, sometimes it takes several attempts before it will start. Mine does not like cold weather at all! The sound is redirected, causing it to seem louder, and since the sound is not crashing into the brake rotor, I am able to hear it better. Again, not a huge difference, but slightly noticeable to me. If I could get the exhaust to seal better, I could probably hear it even more, but that is another discussion, and no, the exhaust has not been removed from the bike, nor loosened for any reason. Exhaust leaks are very irritating to me (tick,tick,tick)! |
Carbonbigfoot
| Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 09:35 am: |
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Yep to the pop. It went away mostly with the tune, but with the stock ECM and the Drummer, it sounds like a small caliber pistol going off. KAPOW!!! A lot more muted with the stock exhaust, but right after I installed the exhaust it scared the crap out of me. But I kinda came to enjoy it. Just realized I miss it a little! R |
The_rock
| Posted on Wednesday, March 31, 2010 - 03:21 pm: |
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Tbenson....those turn outs were worth every penny IMO. The color matches the body works and really makes the whole package complete visually. Nice work! |
Albert666
| Posted on Wednesday, March 31, 2010 - 03:45 pm: |
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i have some but i'm in the uk
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1125caffinatedracer
| Posted on Wednesday, March 31, 2010 - 04:57 pm: |
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Bought the same ones Tbenson did off ebay. Can't wait. Dig the satin aluminum look. |
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