i finally spent the money and got the after market fairings for my '08 1125r. i know that a lot of you have written in with issues and i have read only a few. well i am going to install mine this weekend and i am asking for knowledge. if any one knows of issues that i need to be cautious of, please let me know. if there is something that is not in the parts that i need to go pick up, please let me know. if i need to add more heat shield protection, please let me know.
i do a lot of my own work but i like to know what i am getting into and that is why i am ask all of you.
the front bracket on the right side needs bent out. or you can get a 1/4 to 1/2 inch spacer and longer screw. dont bother putting the head shield on. get some other stuff from off the interweb! i bought 2 packages and only needed one... i might sell it if your interested.
The std heat shield is rubbish, swap it out for something better (not puffy).
The front bracket can be bent out, but I also added a 1/2 inch spacer between the bracket and the fairing. That and the non-puffy heat shield should give you the airgap you need to stop it from melting..
You will find the stock heat shield won't last so save yourself a PITA and replace it with something better before you install. The right front bracket can either be bent or you can make a spacer or use washers to get the bracket spaced from the case about 1/4" or so. When fitting the right side fairing be sure to look down and do whatever you need to do to get a 1/4" gap between the header pipe and the heatshield.
Again: replace the stock heatshield with better material.
I did this video when these first came out to help explain how they attach and what not. So if ya want, take a look, I go over the brackets on the left and right side quite a bit and you can see how much clearance you need. Shortly after this video I took the time to adjust them again and gain even a little more clearance and have yet to have any problems with the fairings.
you guys have been outstanding help. thank you so much. hey geforce, i did see your video when you first made it but i guess i forgot about it. after watching it i realize how dirty my bike is. i now know that i need to head out and do some shopping. thanks again guys
If you install the fairing correctly and spend some time on those right side brackets getting plenty of clearance you won't need the additional heat tape. I have a few hundred miles on the setup in the video now and the heat tape looks great. If in the future it ever starts to fall apart I will remove that side and replace it with a better solution.
i got every thing done i believe. i did use the heat shield that came with it but i also used some tape that i have. its a good heat tape and i didn't want to use just that so i combined what i have and what they gave me. i pulled the bracket out and used a spacer. the weather should be nice for a test ride today. thanks again for all the help.
You asked us what to do then didn't listen..... the stock heat shield SUCKS, I wouldn't risk it. But let us know what happens! If it starts to melt and doesn't work shoot me a pm, like I said I have stuff rated to 2000 degrees that works great for sale and its enough to do almost the whole fairing (that isn't needed but just saying)
For what its worth Summit racing has different size heat mat that you can cut to fit,the stuff is rated I believe to 1200 degrees. 12"x12" was 9.99 or there about. It kept mine from melting.
I still think taking the original shield off would have been a better approach, after less than 200 miles mine was lifting at the edges and was so easy to peel off I have no confidence in them..it wasn't tacky enough..
Assuming you taped over the top of it to stop it "puffing up" you'll probably be OK though.
Before fitting the heat shield to the panel I marked out the area and roughed it up with some wet and dry to give a better key for the glue.
I'll let you know if it adhere's better once I get round to fitting the panels.
I'm still waiting for the bodywork to be released on EBR before I make a final decision on what to fit - I really want the 1190RR body kit - but I suspect that it's going to be out of my price range.
i had originally wanted to do all the mods that i had planned this weekend and this was news to me that i did not have everything that i needed. for example i did not know until i made this post on Friday that the heat shield was not worth installing. this weekend i denoided the bike then i worked on making a better bracket for the license plate and installed new lights for it. that was not fun with the fuses popping because i did not have a load equalizer. i picked one up on saturday and finished that project. now i have to go shopping again due to the equalizer is way to hot to have in the tail of the bike near the battery. as for the fairings, i did listen but i just made a modification to what you all said. i placed the heat shield in the proper location but i added three layers of the heat tape i own across it. i think i did four layers at the leading edge. i added the spacer and even bent the bracket out a bit. i rode to work today and every time i stopped i took off my gloves and felt for heat. all i can say is so far, so good. i mean it when i say thank you for all your help.
Is the load equalizer a ballast resistor? And is that for your flashers or the actual tail light?
I briefly changed the stock flashers for smaller LED ones but the flash rate was too high (wrong load), I toyed with the idea of fitting the ballast resistors in parallel but decided just to black out the stock flashers and live with it..
i took off the oem light and replaced everything back there. i am using the led lights that are inside of bolts that hold the plate on. when i used them on my honda i had no problems but as soon as i put them on this bike they blew the fuse every time. a guy told me about this load equalizer and everything works but the heat is not safe. i will most likely have to find a different light to use to light up the plate.
That's interesting.. I wouldn't have thought they'd have been an issue, the LED bulbs would want to draw less current so not sure why that'd cause a blown fuse. I'd have suggested you might have a short but if the load equalizer stops the fuse blowing that shouldn't be the case..
Any chance of posting a pic so we can see what you're working on?
i thought a short also until i connected the oem light back up. no blown fuse then. i still dont like the fact this equalizer is putting off so much heat so i think i might have to use a different set up to light the plate. i work second shift so i need the light to stay legal. if i get pulled over for speeding i dont want the lights to be tacked on to the ticket. maybe i should start a new thread just about this issue?