The wheels in my 09 1125R and 07 XB12R are the same with the reminder that the rear wheel runs the other way round and if fitting an XB wheel into an 1125 then you need the rear disc with the extra holes in to allow for rear calliper installation bolt access
and then something changed for the '10 models? Or was it unique the the '10 CR? I think there's conflicting info floating aroudn the web about this (yes, it's shocking, I know...)
Frog: Just a guess, but I'm thinking that I already HAVE an axle -- at least I think I do. Otherwise, the rear wheel would most likely have come off at some point.
In this case, if the external diameter of the bearing race is identical (mean the ID of race receptacle on the wheel is the same) for any year 1125 or XB, then all I actually need to do is get a fresh set o' proper bearings, flop the xb wheel so driveside/brakeside are correct, spoon on some slicks and I'm off to the races (semi-literally)?
but if you were to get a 2010 wheel and try to put it on anything other then a 10 it wouldnt work without the updated axle. they have made the pocket in the 10 wheels deeper to sandwich 2 bearings beside eachother on the drive side. and as far as i can tell. the older axles taper down right after passing through the first bearing, meaning that an old axle with new wheel would leave that inside bearing basically hanging out and doing nothing. i think the new axle has a longer shoulder so both bearings have some place to sit on the new axle.
thats my figuring anyway, i havent had a 10 axle in my hand, but i have seen the deeper pockets in the 10 wheel and having looked at my 08/09 axles im pretty sure that tappered part would need to be relocated farther towards the center of the wheel because of the second bearing on the drive side..