| Author | Message | ||
     Pso |
I replaced the melted #77 connector w/spade connectors. I had previously replaced melted #77 connector with hard wireing. Took bike out yesterday voltage reading was: Idle 13.4-13.8 3-5K 13.9 5-6K rpm 14 to 14.1 Is this pretty much standard voltage for an 06? Also bike turned over immediatly when I hit the starter. I had the short pause after inital start sequence. | ||
| Sparky |
Hey, at least it is starting. Voltage sounds fairly good but the battery may be marginally not good. How old is the batt? The short pause is one indication of a battery not fully charged or with some other problem. If you have a low rate charger, no more than 2 amps, you might try giving it an overnight charge to put some juice back into it. Then try a start and see if it starts better. If it does, then repeat the charging voltage test and see if it goes to around 14.5 VDC. | ||
| Pso |
So Sparky am I looking for a fairly constant rate of 14.5V? I have a low rate battery tender, will put it on tonight. Battery is only about 6 months old. | ||
| Sparky |
It should rise to around that much unless there is something else in the electrical system drawing excessive current like some other component shorting (not likely but it can happen). Since it's a fairly new battery, it sounds like it needs a charging session to make it act like new again. Note: the bike's charging system won't deliver the overcharging current needed to restore any lost capacity. Regarding the battery tender, it may help if it'll stay on high charge with the red light on but after it goes on float charge (green light), it won't put more juice into the battery. But give that a try and see if it helps. More than likely, if it helps, you might want to keep the bike on the tender at nights. It's times like this that I would use my Sears auto charger - it's rated at 6 amp max - but it tapers off when the battery starts coming up in voltage. Speaking of Sears, you can take your battery to them and they'll charge it at 2 amps for about 4 to 6 hours for a nominal charge (bad pun, sorry). Most any MC shop would likely do the same, if need be. Keep us posted on how it goes. | ||
| Sparky |
Maybe I misinterpreted what you meant about the 14.5 VDC. With everything nominal, the bike's charging system should should rise to about 14.5 VDC +/- a few tenths at revs over 4k. If you were talking about a battery charger putting out fairly constant 14.5 VDC, that's a different subject: There are two types, constant current and taper current chargers. -- With a constant current charger, one needs to monitor the temperature of the battery so that the battery doesn't overcharge to destruction. But at 2 amps and 6 hours, you're only putting in 12 amp/hours charge. -- A tapering charger will overcharge at its max rated current until the battery meets a predetermined voltage point and then taper down to prevent overheating. Either one will work as long as the battery doesn't overheat in the process. A battery tender won't overheat & ruin your battery though, so good call. | ||
| Pso |
Sparky-Maybe I was not clear in my previous message. I just went out and started the bike. I got the following readings on my radar detector voltage readings.The detector seems to be very, very accurate as to voltage being put into the battery. Idle 14.1 Volts 4k RPM 14.3 Volts So if the stator is putting out and the regulator is allowing 14.3 Volts through to the battery that means that I am in an acceptable range? Thanks for taking the time | ||
| Sparky |
You should be good to go.  | ||
| Pso |
Thanks |
