Author |
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Hunn
| Posted on Sunday, March 14, 2010 - 06:16 pm: |
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I did a check engine light diagnostic with a jumper wire on my 06 Uly, 20 000 miles, and got a code 21, that is a fault in the interactive muffler control or brake lights or horn. Found a blown 10 amp fuse in that circuit, replaced it, started engine, no more check engine light for about 40seconds, then the fuse blew again. In that time I did not touch horn or brakes, but revved the engine couple of times. Is it the active muffler control thats messing up? Has anybody experienced that? |
Dirt
| Posted on Sunday, March 14, 2010 - 07:05 pm: |
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I have experienced error 21 about a half dozen times. In each instance the 10 amp fuse was blown. I actually took the bike to the dealer once when it was under warranty and they told me they could not find a problem. I don't think they actually looked for one, but that is another topic. I always assumed it was the muffler valve, but in my case it happened randomly, say maybe every 5 to 8 thousand miles. Sounds like you have a persistent problem. Some have reported that lubing the cable and or adjusting it corrects the problem. Might want to do a BadWeb search on "error 21" or "muffler valve" for details. |
Xbeau12s
| Posted on Sunday, March 14, 2010 - 08:02 pm: |
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Maybe the cable for the servo needs some lubrication. My buddies GSXR has an interactive valve system. |
Tootal
| Posted on Sunday, March 14, 2010 - 10:20 pm: |
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Turn on the kill switch. Crank the throttle wide open and turn the ignition switch to on. You should hear the muffler valve actuating. Even better, remove the air box cover and watch the actuator when you turn on the ignition switch, again with the throttle wide open. If it doean't move or doesn't move freely then it probably needs replaced. The new ones have steel gears in them instead of plastic, seems to have fixed the problem. |
Hunn
| Posted on Monday, March 15, 2010 - 04:53 pm: |
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Did a lot of trial and error testing yesterday, used up a godly amount of 10 amp fuses by disconnecting and connecting brake lights and switches,horn and the actuator for the muffler valve and reinserting new fuses. The culprit that is blowing fuses is the 12 volt actuator for the muffler valve. The valve and the cable by themselves move easy and freely. I replaced the 10 amp fuse with a 20 amp and the little actuator motor actually started smoking. For now I disconnected the plug that goes in the actuator and have the muffler valve wired open till I have a replacement actuator. Does anybody have the parts number? Where do I get a new/used one?? |
Garrcano
| Posted on Monday, March 15, 2010 - 05:06 pm: |
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S1138.1AA |
Natexlh1000
| Posted on Monday, March 15, 2010 - 05:15 pm: |
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In the future, try hooking up a headlight bulb to one of the blown fuses. If the headlight shines, that's 5A right there. I don't think that little motor would ever draw 5A unless toasted. |
Oldwesterncowboy
| Posted on Monday, March 15, 2010 - 05:37 pm: |
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The original units part # was S0138.2AAA, and the new unit is # S1138.1AA. new unit has metal gears. |
Hunn
| Posted on Monday, March 15, 2010 - 06:24 pm: |
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Thanks a bunch for the good help and advice from you all. One more question : Since I really have not seen that muffler valve cycle, what is closed, what is open? In other words is pulling the cable opening the muffler valve or closing it? What effect will an always open valve have? Should I just forget about the whole thing and mount an aftermarket exhaust? (sorry,thats more like four questions) |
Tootal
| Posted on Monday, March 15, 2010 - 07:31 pm: |
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Pulling the cable will open the valve. This makes it sound better but might lose some grunt at low rpm. Mine failed in the open position and I liked the sound but since it was under warranty I let them fix it. Some guys wire it open and I don't blame them, sounds better! |
Oldwesterncowboy
| Posted on Monday, March 15, 2010 - 07:40 pm: |
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my dog told me that(I think) the valve is spring loaded to close, so pulling the cable will open the muffler valve
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Hunn
| Posted on Tuesday, March 16, 2010 - 02:42 pm: |
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Been driving around with the muffler valve wired open after removing the broken actuator of the active exhaust control and there is a noticeable decrease in low end torque combined with a rather hefty exhaust note, that send the neighbors dog running for cover. Since I'm not into loud bikes I started looking for the actuator replacement, part S1138.1AA and its a hefty $164+tax+shipping--Ouch!! Any better/cheaper Ideas anybody? Used parts anybody? |
Froggy
| Posted on Tuesday, March 16, 2010 - 02:54 pm: |
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You can easily get them used, 95% of the aftermarket pipes don't use it, so many just have them laying around and you could get a used one for beer money. |
Tootal
| Posted on Tuesday, March 16, 2010 - 05:12 pm: |
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Beer money? That could be expensive!! |
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