Author |
Message |
Loganwolf
| Posted on Saturday, March 06, 2010 - 05:26 pm: |
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Ok I have the manual for my blast and it says 24 inch pounds and then back it off a 3/4 of a turn. But I have also read where Ez said to only tighten it 11 to 12 flats. What is a flat and is there anyway I can get around using an inch pound wrench? And with the flats thing would I have to back it off? |
Buellistic
| Posted on Saturday, March 06, 2010 - 06:08 pm: |
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"YES", there is and if you want the "How to adjust your PRIMARY CHAIN Class 101", e-mail me(Ljenne73c@verizon,net) so that "i" can get your e-mail address and it is yours ... "MAY THE LONG LASTING TROUBLE FREE BLAST BE WITH YOU !!!" |
Loganwolf
| Posted on Saturday, March 06, 2010 - 06:20 pm: |
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Thank you buellistic but after a bit of searching on the site I found the directions on how to tighten it from one of ezs posts. I will check it again in the morning after the bike has cooled to make sure it is right. I believe that after tightening it tonight if I had had enough road it would have gone to about 95. I am getting this thing back to running like new little by little. |
Swampy
| Posted on Saturday, March 06, 2010 - 06:23 pm: |
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Let me give a little chain lesson.... There are MANY ways to tighten your primary chain, from very simple methods, to very precise difficult methods. A brand new Blast is shipped with an adjustment spacer, with the spacer inplace the primary chain runs very loose, normaly the original adjustment is run to, what, 1000 miles? then it is removed and the first adjustment is made. There are exactly three adjustment settings, too loose, too tight, and just right. With a loose chain you will notice alot of primary noise, that is it, kind of like a box of rocks. Adjusted too tight and you will hear a whirring noise, which is your chain wearing away on your adjustment shoe and wearing out your clutch bearing and causing all sorts of shifting problems and clutch dragging. Just right and you will be happy with how the clutch disengages, shifting and lack of noise. So I would adjust it while the bike is warmed up to just where the fast idle is off, loosen the adjustment, till you hear noise, then adjust it tighter until it goes away, back it off and try it again, loosen it till it starts to get noisy, then tighten it till it gets quiter, then back it off till it just starts if you tighten it too much to the too tight setting you will actually hear the engine slow down as the chain starts dragging the engine down. After you adjust your primary, then adjust your clutch. It is a very simple adjustment to make and is not critical to be "By the Book" With the lock nut backed way off you can just about turn the adjustment screw by hand and its sort of like adjusting a idle air screw on a carburetor, tighten it up till it slows down then back it off till it makes noise, then retignten it just to where it stops making noise and the engine speed doesn't drop and you should be OK! |
Swampy
| Posted on Saturday, March 06, 2010 - 06:25 pm: |
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Gosh, everybody jumped in while I was typing! LOL! Man, it's winter where I am at, whats everybody elses excuse for being on-line tonight? |
Buellistic
| Posted on Saturday, March 06, 2010 - 06:44 pm: |
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If you can not find the tight spot on the chain and you adjust it on the loose spot then the chain will be too tight ... That means the clutch will not work correctly ... If the clutch was adjusted correctly in the first place it stays is adjustment a very long time ... The clutch cable will break before it will needs to be adjusted ... If you drill a small hole over the clutch cable end on the clutch lever to oil the end you will never break a clutch cable !!! The too tight primary chain will cause a poor shifting transmission ... |
Kenster32
| Posted on Saturday, March 06, 2010 - 06:59 pm: |
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still cold as witches nippleez in WI tryed to start the bike last weekend but only got a couple pops and no go k |
2hrcommute
| Posted on Friday, July 09, 2010 - 08:10 pm: |
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Hope I'm in the right spot. I goofed big time. I tightened my primary 90% in b4 I noticed I was using FOOT pounds!! Now what do I do? I'm afraid to do anything until I here from you guys. |
Swampy
| Posted on Friday, July 09, 2010 - 08:18 pm: |
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Back the adjusting bolt off, throw away the torque wrench, start the bike, and start to tighten the adjusting bolt, as you tighten it you will hear the sound in the primary case go from a box of rocks sound, to a whirring sound, once you get to the whirring sound, back it off till it just goes away and tighten the lock nut. |
2hrcommute
| Posted on Friday, July 09, 2010 - 08:31 pm: |
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I did as you said, but something must've broke because I shifted into 1st and now it won't go into neutral. Man I really did it this time uuuggh. |
2hrcommute
| Posted on Friday, July 09, 2010 - 09:00 pm: |
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Where do I go from here? |
2hrcommute
| Posted on Friday, July 09, 2010 - 09:35 pm: |
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Look, I know I did it wrong. I can't find neutral... Let me find neutral and I'll do it anyway you want. How do I find neutral so I can start the bike? |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Friday, July 09, 2010 - 09:41 pm: |
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Please post in a civilized manner. ALL CAPS IS YELLING AND ANTAGONISTIC, per normal and universal online protocol. |
Swampy
| Posted on Friday, July 09, 2010 - 09:45 pm: |
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With the bike off, pull the clutch, then rock the bike and try to shift the shifter. |
2hrcommute
| Posted on Friday, July 09, 2010 - 10:17 pm: |
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That got it back in neutral. It should be alright from here. I'll finish in the morning and let you know. This forum is awesome!! Thanks guys!! |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Friday, July 09, 2010 - 11:21 pm: |
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"I am a Buell Motorcycle Enthusiast and wish to contribute positively to and participate thoughtfully in discussions on BadWeatherBikers.com (BadWeB)! By registering for participation in this Buell Motorcycle Enthusiasts' discussion board/forum I hereby agree to honor and affirm all of the following absolutely and in entirety. I will not post profane language, nor will I engage in personal attacks or in derision in any form of other users of the board. I agree to treat with respect and courtesy all members of this online Buell enthusiasts' community. I realize that there is never any justification to violate this policy, and that if I do, I may forfeit my BadWeB posting privileges. I will honor without question, debate, or argument any/all custodian/admin request(s) concerning the content and/or decorum of my contributions to the forum. I realize that there is never any justification to violate this policy, and that if I do, I may forfeit my BadWeB posting privileges. I agree to treat others as I would hope to be treated; I will only post commentary with a respectful demeanor just as if I am speaking face to face. In all cases I will avoid flame wars and hateful, derisive, insulting, and divisive commentary. I understand that derisive personal commentary in any form is entirely unwelcome on BadWeB. I agree and understand that those sowing disharmony and malcontent are unwelcome at BadWeatherBikers.com, a forum for folks who are enthusiastic about Buell motorcycles. I will not masquerade under multiple usernames, nor will I seek to disingenuously conceal my identity." |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Saturday, July 10, 2010 - 07:52 pm: |
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Derisive and inflammatory posts will be moved. Everyone is free to offer their own opinion on repairs as long as it is in line with Badweb policies. The last 3 offending posts offered no information, insight or help whatsoever and failed "to contribute positively to and participate thoughtfully" in the discussion. Thats why they were moved. |
Ezblast
| Posted on Saturday, July 10, 2010 - 10:05 pm: |
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Yeah - what he said! EZ |
Milt
| Posted on Saturday, July 10, 2010 - 11:00 pm: |
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I always look to Thumper Forum as the model of civility on this sometimes less than civil website. (Also, I'm old enough to remember terminals that did not support lower case letters!) |
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