| Author | Message | ||
     Snojet |
Ok Bad-webbers, I have been pulling my hair out (click on my name and see my pic of no-hair haha) over my problem with my bike. To summarize, with the bike at operating temp if I do a heavy roll-on or "thwack" on the throttle the bike will hesitate/stumble, basically loose power. If fact, if I continue into that throttle position I will then actually loose power and engine RPM's drop down and of course so does my speed. This is really bad if you want to get around someone or get out of a possible dangerous situation, or simply want to play a little with the power that these bike have. All I have to do to "cure" this condition is to simply slow down enough to go into neutral or stop and cycle the key off then turn it back on after the gauges sweep. Then start the bike and I have all the power that the bike will produce at whatever throttle I apply. But, shortly after this "reset" the condition returns. At home I've checked for codes - none. I've check for leaks on my new intake seal replacement - no leaks. To read further on my previous progress or work accomplished with this problem, click on the below links.... http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/532944.html?1264647383 http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/541812.html?1267056743 - (this link is about the replacement of the intake seals) I am very sick of working on this bike. I really just want to ride it and that's it!!!!!! Now I'll see what you guys think about my next idea. This idea stems from looking over the Engine Management Circuit in the SM. In my mind I was looking at what can be "reset" when the Key/on-off switch is cycled. In my mind that is the whole key to this (the "reset" thing) problem. I believe it could come down either the ECM or Ignition Coil. To support this... If fact, when I recently replaced my plugs and plug-wires; with the ignition coil out and accessible I ohmed out all the pins and compared to what the SM says the tolerances were suppose to be. I remember that at least one of the checks on one set of pins produced a reading that was right at the limit (SM page 4-99). But since it was right at the limit I let it go, that's what limits are for. Right? Also to note, I remember when I was a teenager that car coils would "collapse" or something like that and then come back to life and work for awhile. I'm not a top-notch electrician, but I know an enough to get into trouble. As for the ECM, it's the whole control over all things and I think possibly it somehow messes up and gets "reset" after power is remove and then reapplied. I've seen these kind of occurrences with the machines that I deal with at my job. Okay, what to you guys think? | ||
| Ratbuell |
When's the last time you reset the TPS? I rushed the tech once doing mine, and because of that it wasn't right and the bike fell FLAT on its face inside of ten feet. Left poor Travis alone the next time...and it's run perfectly ever since  | ||
| Dio |
Is there any way this could be related to the BAS - Bank Angle Sensor? That is how these are reset - cycle kill switch or ignition. | ||
| Snojet |
"Ratbuell" - I have reset the TPS many times, both while the engine is hot and cold. No help there. If fact, a year ago or so, I performed "Threadmarks" (I think that's his name) famous TPS reset procedure. I didn't really notice any real effect on my bike after that. "Dio" - I'm at work now, so I don't have the SM wiring diagram in front of me, but I don't remember the BAS being in that circuits. I will look when I get home. Anyone support my idea or either the ignition coil or ECM? | ||
| Ratbuell |
I thought the BAS was reset by the kill switch, not the master (ignition). Where is yours physically? Under the triple-tail? Or up by the ECM? It should have been relocated to the back, under the triple, by a recall...if not, you could be getting too much heat/vibe for it to work properly. That's not to say it *can't* fail in the new (tail) location... Problem is, the BAS acts like...well, like you hit the kill switch. It doesn't lose power, it turns OFF. | ||
| Snojet |
I'm not sure how the BAS is reset. Maybe to clarify, I use the key (master ignition) to perform my "reset". I've tried the kill switch by the throttle - it did not help. My BAS was reloaded in the tail (Under the triple-tail), right by the locking mechanism where the seat is secured. When I was in ECMspy recently, I think I have an option to turn the BAS off. If this is true (I'll check tonight), I will temporally do this and see if my problem goes away. Thanks for the advice...  | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
is this only after the bike warms up? and then of course soon after these rolling restarts that you mentioned.. Sounds to me like one of the sensors that is part of the closed loop FI system is causing your problem. If the bike runs fine when cold and when first restarted, then that's because it's running strictly off the fuel maps in open loop. I'd check IAT, ET, O2, and TP sensors. | ||
| Towpro |
I would log the event with ECMspy. I can't recall, but I think there is a way you can "mark" your logs when an event happens (I might have this confused with my VW software). IF you can't mark it, start a stop watch when you start the log, then record the exact time you experience the problem. Once you have the log, others here would be willing to look at it. I think you can ride for 1/2 hour and record only 1 meg of data. | ||
| Blake |
Steve (Snojet), "Okay, what to you guys think?" I feel your pain. I too prefer to do my own diagnosing and correcting. But with your situation and you already having given admirable effort in that regard, if it were me, I'd take it to a reputable shop with a reputable Buell technician and let them diagnose it. Most likely they'll find the issue in short order, resolve it, and you'll be on your way riding and enjoying the bike again. That said, do you have a service manual? | ||
| Florida_lime |
I'd check IAT, ET, O2, and TP sensors. I hope it's not the ETS, they have been on Back Order for 4 months now.  | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
This just crossed my mind.. I used to have a problem with my X1 when restarting it warm, and the problem was heat on the IAT sensor, but the sensor itself was fine. When replacing the stock airbox with a forcewinder, I exposed the IAT sensor to more heat rising from the then un-coated header while the bike was warm, engine off, and sitting still. When I tried to restart, it was hard to get the bike running because the IAT sensor was telling the ECM that the outside air temp was XX degrees warmer than reality. I could unplug the sensor, and get the bike started. Unplugging the sensor would trigger a check engine light, but I could plug it in a few miles down the road after it had a chance to cool in the wind and the engine light would go out as soon as the sensor was back. I realize this doesn't relate very well to XB models, but I said all that to say this - some of those sensors could be diagnosed by unplugging them. TP sensor definitely cannot be unplugged, but I would venture to guess that the other three can be unplugged long enough for you to check if the bike runs any better. |
