| Author |
Message |
    
Etennuly
| | Posted on Wednesday, February 24, 2010 - 08:22 pm: | 
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Awww crap! I really wanted to see pictures of it hanging upside down with you fishing in the plug hole with a magnet!
Oh well. |
Dio
| | Posted on Wednesday, February 24, 2010 - 10:44 pm: |
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Snojet: Are those intake seals the blue James ones that were mentioned in another thread? I just put a set of these in my Road Glide (carbureted), and they went in OK, tight,but OK. |
Motoskier
| | Posted on Thursday, February 25, 2010 - 07:09 am: |
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Congratulations, u'er a real mechanic now.
Definition of RM: 1) must lose at least one tool per session. 2) must have at least one left over part, washer, nut, screw, etc., preferably several items.
On another note, I would check the top of all valves just to make sure the bit did not bounce off the piston into the open valve space.. |
Snojet
| | Posted on Thursday, February 25, 2010 - 02:32 pm: |
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Hey Dio - Yes I am in the process of installing those blue seals, and man are they tight.
Hey Motoskier - Thanks for graduating me to the mechanic ranks now. hahahhaha  Although, I would just prefer to ride this bike and not work on it!
Etennuly - There will be no hanging anything upside down and/or picture taking. |
Etennuly
| | Posted on Thursday, February 25, 2010 - 04:38 pm: |
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There will be no hanging anything upside down and/or picture taking.
Another sad day, in perhaps what could have been a great week. I really thought that would have been cool to see!
Hope you'll be out riding it soon! |
Tootal
| | Posted on Thursday, February 25, 2010 - 07:15 pm: |
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Those blue seals may require you filing the ends off a little. Remember the stock ones don't wrap around the end of the manifold like the blue ones do. I had to file quite a bit off. Sometimes if you get them too tight they could tear after a few heat cycles. I do like them though. |
Hmartin
| | Posted on Saturday, February 27, 2010 - 09:06 pm: |
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Well, as of 30 min. ago, I, too, have got a #27 torx bit lost somewhere on or around the engine. I was trying to get that torx screw off of the intake when the wrench slipped and the bit clinked around through the cylinders like a Pachinko machine. It never hit the ground. I think it vanished out of thin air.
I bought 3 new tools to try to get access to the 1/2" bolts, the torx screw and the 1/4" hex bolts on the intake. Nothing works. I'm 0 for 3, plus the missing bit. @%$!# I'm debating whether to keep buying tools or just button it back together and take it to the shop - or trade it in. |
Ulynut
| | Posted on Saturday, February 27, 2010 - 09:11 pm: |
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Lean the bike over as far as you dare from side to side. If that doesn't shake it out, blow air from a compressor all around the motor. You will find it. |
Froggy
| | Posted on Saturday, February 27, 2010 - 09:21 pm: |
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If possible fire the bike up and lean it over that way the bike shakes it loose. |
Dio
| | Posted on Saturday, February 27, 2010 - 10:15 pm: |
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Does anyone put any kind of lube on these intake seals? I used some SuperLube, which is a thick looking grease-like gel with teflon. Supposed to be super slick, good to 450 degrees, not attract dirt, and stay put according to the label. |
Stevem123
| | Posted on Sunday, February 28, 2010 - 10:38 am: |
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I used some silicone grease on mine. Silicone won't deterioriate the seals over time like petrol grease will.
BC Steve |
Tootal
| | Posted on Sunday, February 28, 2010 - 12:59 pm: |
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Dealer mechanics I've talked to just use WD40. I used Dow Corning 111 since it's for sealing o-rings. Non drying too, great for gaskets. |
Nobuell
| | Posted on Sunday, February 28, 2010 - 04:00 pm: |
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What are the Blue seals made of? If they are silicone, you should not silicone based lubes. Silicone grease is fine for many other types of seals.
Many of the o-ring type lubes are designed to make the seals swell slightly once installed to improve the seal. This may or may not be beneficial for the intake seals. I have not replaced them so I am not sure about this.
We just designed some nuclear valves with silicone gaskets and o-rings and were warned by the rubber manufacturer not to use silicone based grease. It will ultimately degrade the material.
For silicone rubber and many plastic applications we use UNIFLOR 8172 or similar type grease (Polyether or Perfluoropolyether based).
Using the correct lubricant when installing a critical seal such as the intakes can provide contribute to long term serviceability.
Any know what the seals are made off? I can verify the proper lube for that material. |
Tootal
| | Posted on Sunday, February 28, 2010 - 06:57 pm: |
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The blue James gaskets are silicone and I've had no problem using the silicone sealant on them. The 111 is a lubricant/sealant and has had no effect on the seals after 60,000 miles on a Harley. |
Nobuell
| | Posted on Sunday, February 28, 2010 - 11:26 pm: |
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Tootal
Dow 111/7/4 are great silicone based compounds and lubricants. We us them on many of our o-ring and gasket application for our nuclear power equipment. If you have had success using it on Silicone rubber seals, that is great.
I was just passing along my companies experience using lubricants on elastomers in critical service applications.
The dow data sheet limits application to "O-rings or other components made of silicone rubber because they can deteriorate the silicone rubber. These compounds will also slightly swell natural butyl rubbers. Any rubber should be tested for excessive swell or shrink" See data sheet at:
http://www2.dowcorning.com/DataFiles/090007c880038 423.pdf
Just trying to pass along my companies experience. |
Snojet
| | Posted on Sunday, April 11, 2010 - 02:42 pm: |
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Badwebbers,
I have gotten my bike to finally work. Here is how.
This is the first post on my problem, if you wish to catch up on this long tale...
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/532944.html?1264647383
What I would recommend on anyones "run skip" or "stumble/hesitation" symptoms is to use ECMSPY and disable (turn off) the BAS and give that a try. I don't know if this is really related, but I also disable (turned off) the Active Muffler Control/Actuator (I'm at work, (can't look at my manual) I think that is the proper name) in ECMSpy. The reason I did that was because of code 21 was always present. I would test it and it worked fine. To note, I've done the test and twisted the throttle to WOT and turn on the key on and watch it operate. And, I've also took the air box cover off and rode it "like I stole it" and seen it operate. For code 21, I have followed the troubleshooting tree and found that my ECM needs to be replaced. I have one on order along with a Muffler control/actuator.
The bike runs just like it should with those two components disabled. Go figure...
Glad to have my bike run like a champ now! |
Snojet
| | Posted on Sunday, April 11, 2010 - 02:56 pm: |
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Hello Badwebbers,
Here is the latest on my long winded problem.
Here is one of the first detailed posts on my problem. Read if you care too...
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/541247.html?1267417584
What I would recommend on anyones "run skip" or "stumble/hesitation" symptoms is to use ECMSPY and disable (turn off) the BAS and give that a try. (Ride it like you just stole it) hahaha I don't know if this is really related, but I also disable (turned off) the Active Muffler Control/Actuator (I'm at work, (can't look at my manual) I think that is the proper name) in ECMSpy. The reason I did that was because of code 21 was always present. I would test it and it worked fine. To note, I've done the test and twisted the throttle to WOT and turn on the key on and watch it operate. And, I've also took the air box cover off and rode it "like I stole it" and seen it operate. For code 21, I have followed the troubleshooting tree and found that my ECM needs to be replaced. I have one on order along with a Muffler control/actuator.
For about two week now the bike runs just like it should with those two components disabled. Go figure...
Glad to have my bike run like a champ now! |
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