Author |
Message |
Avc8130
| Posted on Tuesday, February 23, 2010 - 06:35 pm: |
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As some may remember I went on a quest for a factory looking switch to use for heated grips. Here is what I came up with. ac |
Ccryder
| Posted on Tuesday, February 23, 2010 - 06:45 pm: |
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Wish I could tell what it looks like! |
Ratsmc
| Posted on Tuesday, February 23, 2010 - 06:50 pm: |
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Click on the picture. |
Froggy
| Posted on Tuesday, February 23, 2010 - 06:57 pm: |
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Quite interesting. |
Therealassmikeg
| Posted on Tuesday, February 23, 2010 - 07:11 pm: |
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nicely done..which heated grips did you go with? |
Avc8130
| Posted on Tuesday, February 23, 2010 - 07:19 pm: |
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Symtec. I like them because they are balanced clutch vs throttle side. The clutch side puts out more heat to compensate for being directly on the metal bar as opposed to the throttle side that is insulated on the plastic tube. ac |
Illbuell
| Posted on Tuesday, February 23, 2010 - 09:24 pm: |
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Are the 1125's prewired for heated grips? |
Usanigel
| Posted on Tuesday, February 23, 2010 - 09:27 pm: |
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Where did you get it from? |
Avc8130
| Posted on Tuesday, February 23, 2010 - 09:32 pm: |
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Depends how you define "pre-wired". There is an accessory power plug in the front wiring harness to supply power. This is NOT plug and play. I had to modify the control housing to make the hole large enough for the switch. The housing normally has a small cover here and under that cover is a slot and the detents for the factory heated grip switch. I ran the 3 switch leads out along the factory wiring and slipped loose heat shrink over just like the factory setup. I soldered the switch leads directly to the terminals normally designed for spade connectors. I cut the spade terminals off after soldering at the base. I did this to maximize clearance between the switch and bar. I would say this looks 80+% factory. The switch "style" matches the factory "home brew" look well enough. I got the switch from an electronics supply house. Obviously they are not a sponsor so I can't pimp their product. I do have a few extra. ac (Message edited by avc8130 on February 23, 2010) |
Captain_america
| Posted on Tuesday, February 23, 2010 - 11:19 pm: |
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Looks good AC. Has anyone tried the heaters that go inside the bar? maybe I'm thinkin about something else. I think i saw them at the HD dealership I love so much..... NOT! AC, What motor is on the stand there in your pic? |
Avc8130
| Posted on Tuesday, February 23, 2010 - 11:23 pm: |
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Jornum has used the Polly in bar heaters. I was waiting for someone to ask about stuff in the background of the pic. That is a roller 302 for my 65 Mustang project that hasn't been touched in 2 years. ac |
Captain_america
| Posted on Tuesday, February 23, 2010 - 11:38 pm: |
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haha nice. I got one of those "bag" projects too for my '72 GMC Sprint (also going on 2 yrs in the making). a healthy 355... Lemme know if you want EFI on that thing man, go looka my webpage. Powerjection III. I can get you a good price. I would like to know how Jornum's setup works. how do yours? |
Avc8130
| Posted on Tuesday, February 23, 2010 - 11:46 pm: |
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I am very happy with the setup I have. The heaters seem to warm quickly and appear to be even clutch to throttle side. I will definitely be doing EFI. At this point I was planning on going 5.0 setup since I have the intake and TB already. I have injectors and fuel rail too. I basically need a harness and an ECM. ac |
Captain_america
| Posted on Wednesday, February 24, 2010 - 12:01 am: |
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I've got ya covered no matter what kind of setup you decide on... |
Xnoahx
| Posted on Wednesday, February 24, 2010 - 01:32 am: |
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Im running the symtecs also and they are fabulous. I dont know what I was doing without heated grips |
Captain_america
| Posted on Wednesday, February 24, 2010 - 01:42 am: |
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While were at it, where is the plug for the accessory power at exactly? |
Littlebutquick
| Posted on Wednesday, February 24, 2010 - 03:32 am: |
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i got myself some heated gloves got small batterys in cuff last 3.5 hrs work really well |
Therealassmikeg
| Posted on Wednesday, February 24, 2010 - 05:50 am: |
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I was gonna ask why you had a Craftsman tool box??? Just Kidding of course |
Avc8130
| Posted on Wednesday, February 24, 2010 - 08:19 am: |
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I have the Craftsman tool box because it was CHEAP. Blingy tool boxes won't win me any cred. There is actually THAT box in the picture AND another Craftsman off to the right. I am not a professional mechanic so I don't use my tools to make money. I never understood mechanics that spend $15k on tool boxes. The box doesn't help get the job done, the TOOLS do. The plug locations depend on the bike. CR: Under the flyscreen easy to get to. R: Under the fairing, back behind the headlights centrally located. Pull the mirrors and the 2 fairing mount bolts to get to it. ac |
Justa4banger
| Posted on Wednesday, February 24, 2010 - 08:47 am: |
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NICe job, looks good. i wan't planning on heated grips, but that switch would work for other gadgets i've been thinking of... |
Captain_america
| Posted on Wednesday, February 24, 2010 - 10:49 am: |
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I look at it like this: Snap-off, Mac, Mat co, whatever, your mostly paying for polished smooth-ness. Once you break one of those at your house, good luck finding the truck... oh there he goes down the street.... "wait come back!!!!!" Nope, he doesn't give a flying F*ck bout you. Break a Craftsman, go to sears and have a brand new tool in no time! I choose Craftsman |
Kirb
| Posted on Wednesday, February 24, 2010 - 10:58 am: |
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I like Craftsman's cost, but not the recent reduction in quality. Plating (or lack of it), socket thickness, drive gears, etc. The old craftsman stuff was great and I have a set that is near the quality of Snap on, but those are hard to find these days at Sears. I still can't justify having all snap on tools. I buy things here and there that are unique or worth it, but for the most part try to stick to my old stuff. The only snap on socket that I have is a 5 point one used to open utility transformers...that is welded into a T-handle so it doesn't get stolen. |
Timxb9s
| Posted on Wednesday, February 24, 2010 - 11:38 am: |
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I installed the Symtec heaters on my r a few weeks ago. I also have them on my Ninja 650. They are great. Plenty of heat even on the LOW setting. The Ninja I used the supplied round rocker switch and mounted it in the left side fairing pannel. That worked great on that bike. But the Buell had nowhere to mount it. I ended up snapping it into the webbing of the front fairing bracket. It fit well but it looked terrible. I ended up getting the right side switch assemy. from american sportbike. Now it looks factory and works well. I wish you had posted this sooner, could have saved some coin copying your set up. |
Daggar
| Posted on Wednesday, February 24, 2010 - 12:52 pm: |
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Looks good man. I used the Symtec heaters on my last bike. They work very well. |
Jeepinbueller
| Posted on Wednesday, February 24, 2010 - 01:34 pm: |
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Any advice on adding a heated grip kit to the Buell Traction grips? I have a set and am looking to install them soon, but I only want to it ONCE with the adhesive (clutch side). Does the throttle tube just slide over the element on the bar? |
Timxb9s
| Posted on Wednesday, February 24, 2010 - 01:49 pm: |
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Jeepinbueller, Install the heater directly to the throttle tube. Not the bar. The instructions advise to use an epoxy type adhesive, I like to use 3M spray trim adhesive. It helps to slide the grips on and if I want to replace just the grips in the future, it is easy to use brake cleaner to remove the old adhesive and save the heaters. Just carefully slice old grip off w/razor knife, clean up and install new grips. If you want to install the heaters to your existing grips, like I did, Just use compressed air between the grip and bar along with some WD-40 and patience(especialy on the clutch side) and work them off. |
Avc8130
| Posted on Wednesday, February 24, 2010 - 01:50 pm: |
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No, you have to separate the throttle grip from the tube. It can be done, contrary to American Sport Bike's opinion. We can start a new thread to bitch about American quality. Bottom line: If I break a Craftsman while working on my transportation there is a Sears 1 mile from my house I can walk to and get a new one. If I break a Snap-on I have to wait until the truck shows up at a buddy's shop. I posted MONTHS ago that I would find a solution. I found one that I wasn't too happy with and then I came across this switch. Fully satisfied now. ac |
Therealassmikeg
| Posted on Wednesday, February 24, 2010 - 03:24 pm: |
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Really Avc... I was kidding... honest! You owe me no explanation. I did see the engine off to the side. If you need some inspiration I can be coaxed with a few cheap beers... we'll have that baby running in no time! PS It's not tools that make a mechanic good... Cheers Mike G |
Avc8130
| Posted on Wednesday, February 24, 2010 - 05:40 pm: |
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Mike G, I didn't take any offense at all. I was just giving my excuse for the "cheap" box. LOL Getting the engine running is the LEAST of my worries. The body is in primer (as I bought it) and needs sanding/blocking and paint (as well as underbody/interior/truck/engine bay treatment. This is a bonafide project ac |