| Author | Message | ||
     Mikezx9r |
I guess this is a suspension question. WHen I get up to higher speeds on my 1125r, it feels unstable. Almost like it wants to wobble. The fastest Ive taken it up to is 115mph because it scares me to go any faster. Its not the speed that scares me. Ive gone close to 60 mph faster than that on other bikes. The suspension is adjusted to my weight. Is there something to check that would cause this feeling? Maybe Im not tucked enough? Everyone says the 1125s are suppossed to be very stable bikes. I cant see what I could be doing wrong. Ive never experienced this on any other bike. Do the bikes get too light in the front end upon acceleration? Would I feel it that much at that high of a speed/gear? I usually dont wear a jacket cause I feel too restricted in it. When I did wear mine, I felt the wobble at a lower speed. maybe like 80-90 mph. Thats what made me think maybe Im not tucking enough? | ||
| Illbuell |
Your probably not use to the steep/short rake it has. Possible that you have front tire out of balance too. Just a guess.. I'd have to ride it to tell you any different. My CR is great at top speed banging off the rev limiter. Of course its not as fast as 99.99% of sport bikes its CC. | ||
| Captain_america |
When I Accel hard, like WFO the front end is very light. 2nd the front wheel is off the ground and 3rd its trying to lift. Tank slap has/is always in my mind. This has been something I have just gotten used to... It got better after I set the suspension to the min weight adjustment. I weigh 160. | ||
| Chevycummins |
Front end got really light on me at the drag strip, that was the only real time I was uncomfortable with it. At high speeds mine seems fine. I just drove through it at the track, probably about 80 mph when it did it at full throttle in second gear. | ||
| Ratbuell |
If it got worse with a jacket on, your jacket is too big. You're parachuting - the jacket is filling with wind, the back is puffing up, and the wind pulls it from one side to the other back and forth. That pulls on your arms. Also, if your suspension is too firm in back, that's putting the bike in a more nose-down stance, which makes it turn-in faster. Soften your rear settings and see if that helps - nose-up or tail-down will slow turn-in, making the bike less twitchy. | ||
| Mikezx9r |
It does it with and without the jacket. It did it before and after the suspension adjustments. Ill have to take it on the highway and see if I notice any other details. Ive been considering a steering damper anyway, so I may try that and see if it helps at all. | ||
| Duggram |
GPR damper takes care of all that wobble. Last year a guy died at Fonatana cause he didn't have a damper. Macho riders will tell you that you don't need one, but I use one to stop the wobbles on the track. And, yes my suspension is setup right. | ||
| Captain_america |
Does anyone have a damper for the CR? | ||
| Redliner172 |
Mine used to do the same thing at about the same speed. get a GPRV4, well worth the money and will potentially save your life. | ||
| Illbuell |
For real.. I would buy one. All though I'm way to macho for one...LOL | ||
| Duggram |
There are a number of good dampers for 1125's. I'm sure the GPR would work on the CR. Illbell, you're too cool!! | ||
| Illbuell |
This kind doesn't fit  And for the record I'm a dork.. Almost as bad as Froggy. Right Froggy.LOL | ||
| Tbowdre |
Personal experience, my 1125 scared the crap outta me at like >130mph, she got really light and started to wobble. This was while I was sorting the suspension and playing with adjustments and tire pressure. You could try increasing rear preload a click to help keep the front end planted when accelerating into triple digits. This might also slow down turn in when hitting the twistys. check tire pressure A damper will stop it for sure. todd | ||
| Dannybuell |
Mikezx9r; Springs are important to your weight. At 250 lbs My S1 was a tank slapping SOB until I got the suspension setup properly for my weight. As the bikes speed increases the natural tendency is for wind resistance to create a certain amount of lift. Generally speaking full fairings tend to reduce lift. Lift places additional pressure on the rear spring causing it to compress more, your front is now coming up. The suspension is in tank slapping range. A steering stabilizer just slows this tendency with heaviness. Lowering the triple trees/Raising the forks up a tiny bit will put more weight on the front. Try that, it's free. If you want to try a short suspension travel version of a good setup increase the rear preload to the next higher weight level and do your speed tests. If that doesn't do it increase preload again. I will bet that these two tricks will get you darn close unless you are over 170 lbs. Why do racers spend so much money on forks, shocks and components while others are satisfied with what they are given? http://www.ebracing.com/shop/page4.html Another factor the book doesn't address is riding ability, more experienced riders understand the benefits of what suspension tuners offer and gladly uses their services for their performance needs. dannybuell | ||
| Duggram |
So I was wrong about the GPR fitting the CR? Maybe the Ohlins cylinder type will work because it mounts low? OK Wayne, let's not start name calling. If you keep it up I'll call you a stunter!   BTW nice picture. I couldn't do that without falling. I think there is one more point to make and that is your grip on the bars. You'll get a lot more shake, and get into it easier if you hold the bars too tight. I still consider my self a new racer and grip pressure is on my mind a lot. If I don't conciously monitor my grip I will catch myself with stiff arms and a tight grip. | ||
| Duggram |
Dannybuell, having expert riders set my suspension and replacing my front spring are other things I did. I weigh between 190 and 200 with all my gear. Traxxion recommended 1.1 kg/mm springs. Certainly stiffer than stock. It was explained to me that Buells take stiffer than normal springs because their forks have a steeper angle (less rake) than other sport bikes. YMMV | ||
| Mikezx9r |
I weigh in at just over 200 lbs. Maybe 205. Ill try to keep an eye on my grip and see if Im squeezing too much. Ill probably get the damper regardless. | ||
| Dannybuell |
Duggram. That what I'm talking about! My S1 has 1.0's GP Suspension valving and a Penske 2 clicker in the back. I really enjoy the heck out of that bike. I am not sure what the front spring is in the CR now, I suspect it needs a bit more. GP Suspension re-valved the forks and rear showa for an appropriate spring. It holds up to the engine torque now and doesn't rock back. I am riding as per the break in procedures in the manual so I can't be too sure if this is the final setup. So far so good. Mikezx9r did you weigh yourself with full riding gear on? dannybuell | ||
| Duggram |
Danny, I'm holding off on the shock and cartridge until I figure out my future racing plans. Your setup sounds like what I need but just not sure yet whether or not to do it. | ||
| Ratsmc |
115 without a jacket? | ||
| Xtreme6669 |
you could try sliding the fork tubes down in the triple clamps a bit... I moved mine down about 1/2 way between stock and flush and it made my bike feel much more stable at speed. it also made it feel less twitchy to me. | ||
| Duggram |
X, I did the same thing. But this seems backwards to me. It steepens the rake which I thought should make it more twitchy. Lots left for me to learn. | ||
| Jdugger |
"1/2 way between stock and flush" is actually moving the front end of the bike HIGHER, which slows steering and increases rake angle (less steep). What's confusing about X's description is he is referencing the tubes with a perspective of the triple clamp. The tubes are "lower" in the clamp, which is actually raising the front end. | ||
| Captain_america |
Does anyone know how much change can be achieved in rake and wheel base from stock? It can't be much but all you need is a lil bit I guess. I used to play with this on my CRF450, but that was 5-6 yes ago and I don't remember Whether I moved the forks up or down in the triple tree. I imagine that I probably moved them down in the clamps as well... | ||
| Dennis355 |
I asked this question about high speed wobble months ago and got no answers that worked . It happened to me at about 130 mph. I currently am getting ready to race the bike and have the forks out getting revalved and new springs and will install the ohlins damper. Hopefully that will be the cure | ||
| Mikezx9r |
The suspension was adjusted with me on the bike in full gear. Ill try the steering damper, but Im not modding the suspension. If the damper doesnt work, Ill just have to accept the bike isnt safe to be ridden above 115mph or so. Most people I ride with see a Buell and figure they will have to go slow for me to keep up anyway. I would love to prove them wrong, but Im not risking my life to do it. | ||
| Jules |
I don't have the same issue with my R, it took me a little while to get used to how direct the steering input is (clip ons in front of the forks will do that!) but it's stable at any speed I throw at it. Managed a nice 152MPH on it last week for a good 5 mins with no issues. I have a zero-g double bubble fitted but it's otherwise stock. If there's someone close to you that you could "swap" bikes for a spirited run on that'd narrow down whether it's an issue with the bike or not... | ||
| Mikezx9r |
I dont know anyone around here that has an 1125r. Ill have to get it on the highway and really pay attention to how tight I grip and any other details about it. | ||
| Jdugger |
How's your grip on the bars, btw? When you get bar twitch, it's very important to have a light touch (no touch at all is best, but alas, impossible). Just let the bike do its thing. | ||
| Mikezx9r |
Ill try to watch it. I may be unintentionally squeezing tighter as I go faster. The thing is, its not the bars shaking. it feels like the whole bike is wobbling. I guess putting pressure on the bars could cause that. I already put it up on the stand and checked the rear wheel bearing to see if it was loose. |
