| Author | Message | ||
     Redbuell1203 |
Have 61 miles on the bike and went to try and go for a ride and bike would crank over, but would not fire over. Called the dealer and they said the plugs could be fouled. Has anyone on here changed their plugs themselves? They battery is fully charged and have enough fuel to run. The closest dealer that I trust to work on the bike (full warranty) is 118 miles one way in Joliet, Illinois. Any help would be nice. | ||
| Ridenusa4l |
try this, its the spark plug cleaning procedure, and it MIGHT help: If fouled plugs are suspected, a spark plug clean can be initiated manually. Repeat the following sequence three times: 1. Roll and hold the throttle wide open 2. Turn the ignition to ON 3. Wait three seconds 4. Release the throttle grip 5. Turn the ignition to OFF Jake P.S.- the search function is a good thing to be aquatinted with hahahaha  | ||
| Redbuell1203 |
Yep did that and got a HUGE backfire. Scared me it was so loud. | ||
| Ridenusa4l |
well try it again, then do a TPS reset: 1. turn key on 2. turn throttle to full throttle and hold for 3 seconds 3. do step 2, three times 4. start bike. and if that doesnt work, disconnect the battery for about 5 min. and try to start it. Jake (Message edited by ridenusa4l on February 21, 2010) | ||
| Mr_incognito |
Is it the battery? The charging systems have been known to kill the battery on some years, so you may check that. If you need your plugs changed already, its not something you can just do in a snap like most bikes. I believe you have to rotate the motor down to get the plug in the front cylinder changed. I dont know if they told you at the dealership, but the biggest cause of fouling plugs is starting it and not letting it warm up. If you dont let it get over 150 degrees, you stand a good chance of fouling plugs....which means starting it and revving it so your buddies can hear, then killing it is a no-no. This is all info the dealership gave me anyways, hope it helps. | ||
| Moosestang |
If you got a backfire, then you have spark. Are you sure you have gas? We know you have air, lol! | ||
| Therealassmikeg |
I believe the latest tune for 2008's addressed a cold start issue along with a few other things... a trip to the dealer might be your best bet. (Message edited by therealassmikeg on February 20, 2010) | ||
| Redbuell1203 |
Was able to do the plugs. It is able to be done without rotating the engine, but only if your hands are able to be dislocated(really) got them out and they were soaked with gas. Was too late to see if it would run will find out in the morning. I have to say I am new to the letting it run for not long enough. So it was my fault for that. I just hope that I got the plugs cleaned enough to get it running. | ||
| Usanigel |
leave the plugs out over night to let the gas evaporate from the cylinders. If you have an airline you can also blow out the cylinders via the plug hole, might need an extension on the air line. | ||
| Bcrawf68 |
If you have liquid gas in the cylinders, you probably have gas in your oil now as the gas will seep past the rings. If you have the plugs out, perhaps you might take out the oil dipstick to let the gas dry out of the oil also. Unless there's some petrochemical reason for this. Any chemical engineers, please feel free to correct me. | ||
| Babboo |
2. turn throttle to lock and hold for 3 seconds What does to lock mean? thanks | ||
| D_adams |
To the lock = WFO or wide effin open. | ||
| Tbowdre |
what is with the "plug cleaning" procedure? what does it do? curious thanks, todd | ||
| D_adams |
When you do the full throttle twist and hold it, it will signal the ecm to fire both plugs, which in turn will burn off any residual fuel in the cylinders, thus, the loud bang. It may take more than one try to get the engine "cleared" of fuel, depending on how wet it is in there. | ||
| Ridenusa4l |
i edited it, sorry for the confusion. Jake | ||
| Redbuell1203 |
Thank you all for the information given. I did get the bike to start and run, let it idle for awhile and took it for a nice wet ride to get it cleared out. So the plugs were the problem...hopefully I won't have to go through the plugs again. | ||
| Tbenson |
Sounds like a cold starting problem? I struggle with mine to get it to start after sitting in the cold for some time too. Lots of backfiring and playing with the throttle, but it eventually starts. I don't think this should be this way, but it is, and I have not come up with a consistent method to remedy the problem for me, other than just fumbling with the throttle, until it starts. | ||
| Syonyk |
The bikes definitely don't like to be shortstarted (start, shut down without warming up). They're a bitch to start if you do this. ... they're a bitch to start if it's below about 20F out too. And, randomly, they just don't want to start on the first press of the starter. My guess is that they're very, very rich (but not rich enough in the cold) on startup, and you end up with fuel pooled in the throttle bodies on the intake valves, evaporating and generally making a fully fuel-saturated mixture that gets sucked in & won't light (above the upper explosive limit). One thing that I think would help these bikes a good bit is a bit of ECU logic that cuts the fuel injection off if the bike is being cranked at WOT. Mazda RX-7 and RX-8s have similar short start issues with the wankels, and the RX-8 ECU will cut fuel if you're cranking at WOT. I had a similar setup in my RX-7 with a fuel pump cutoff switch. If the engine is flooded, cranking at WOT with no fuel coming in will help air it out. You just tend to get one hell of an explosion in the exhaust system after doing this, which probably doesn't do it any favors. Sadly, I don't think this would be trivial to add to the ECU. | ||
| Blackflash |
If it doesn't start up when cold the first time 1.I roll the throttle on 25% while cranking . If it does't start like this I then 2.keep the throttle close and try to start it. It usually fires the second time with my method.I think when the helicon is cold their is very low vacuum and it doesn't draw the fuel in the bores very well.Thats why I open the throttle and crank it for a second then close them and it fires right up.Try it ??You might be amazed at how well it works Also check your tps and see where its at. | ||
| Syonyk |
I don't think this should be this way, but it is, and I have not come up with a consistent method to remedy the problem for me, other than just fumbling with the throttle, until it starts. "Don't ride it in the cold," duh. I was rather disappointed that a 2008 fuel injected bike didn't start in the cold any better than a late 70s carbureted bike. | ||
| Zac4mac |
I rode about 20 miles 2 days ago at 27 dF Do NOT touch the throttle when cold starting or you WILL flood. The plug cleaning routine fire three quick pulses to both plugs to clean. If it doesn't fire after 5 or 6 turns, stop - wait a few seconds and try again. Most I've seen is 3 tries. Mile High in Colorado Zack (Message edited by zac4mac on February 21, 2010) | ||
| Mikezx9r |
I was rather disappointed that a 2008 fuel injected bike didn't start in the cold any better than a late 70s carbureted bike. I feel you there. My other bike is 8 years old, carbureted and has 25k miles on it. It starts easier than my 1125r in the hot or cold. | ||
| Jules |
Make sure you have the latest flash. mine was a 'mare to start until I had that. Now it's perfect, even overnight camping trips in the snow don't hurt it  It really was like night & day.. | ||
| Anakist |
I found if you turn it off with the key, it is harder to start than if you turn it off with the kill switch, then key off. James | ||
| Redbuell1203 |
The rear plug is a breeze to get out. As far as the front, the air cover in the front has to be taken out, unplug the O2 sensor and you can get to the coil going that way the coil was a bit hard to get to, but using 1/4" drive 8mm socket. To get the spark plug out I used the flex drive socket and a 1" extension with a special adapter the fits into the 3/8" end...the tool converts the end into a end that you can use a racheting wrench on. I bought the special tool at Sears. Comes 3 in a pack 1/4",3/8",and 1/2". I hope this helps someone in the future. (Message edited by redbuell1203 on February 21, 2010) | ||
| Torquaholic |
Redbuell1203, Thanks for sharing your experiences on the plug swap. To clarify, you did mean that in order to do a front cylinder plug swap without rotating the engine, one must remove the lower airbox, including the air intake snorkel that runs between the neck of the frame and the front side of the motor, correct? Take a look at the pictures I provided below. In addition to a 1/4" drive socket wrench, do these pictures show the correct tool set for the plug job without rotating the engine? Any other tools necessary? Thanks!   | ||
| Zac4mac |
Wobblers and u-joints are a good addition to your toolbox. Wobblers are like ball-drivers for extensions. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem. taf?Itemnumber=31203 Z | ||
| Illbuell |
XBs do the same thing.. Never touch the throttle when starting a XB or 1125. It will flood easy. I have had 5 XB12s 1 XB9 and now a 1125CR. They have started every time with no problem as long as you dont touch the throttle.. I would take one to the dealer and it would never fail some wash boy would whack the throttle and flood it out.. | ||
| Mikezx9r |
My 1125 seems to start easier when cold if I throttle it a little. If I dont twist the throttle, it almost never starts on the first try. If I do twist it a little, it will start on the first try about half the time. | ||
| Zacks |
I would take one to the dealer and it would never fail some wash boy would whack the throttle and flood it out.. Well, then it's a good thing (I guess) that my HD dealer doesn't wash Buells :-) I thought it was just more of the 2nd class citizenship. Now, I find out it's so my engine doesn't flood. | ||
| Redbuell1203 |
Ok don't have ability to get pic up so will put on here the tool part number so anyone can go to sears and get these tools. It is called a 3-piece socket cap set #943303. This tool turns any socket into a bolt head to ease getting into those very tight spaces. The rest was just as pictured a flex socket and a 3"(sorry just looked at the tools at lunch) extension. I have to be honest the coil was a pain in the a@@ to get out, but was able to get out and back in. Make sure to use some lube on the side of the coil to help it slide back in. Roughly took me about an hour because I have never had anything apart before on this bike. I really want to do the de-noid on it yet. I only removed the one cover in the front under the triple tree...it has one torx bolt in it....Just look for the front O2 sensor wire and that is the one. It also has a wire on the side to what looks like the air temp sensor. (Message edited by redbuell1203 on February 22, 2010) | ||
| Redbuell1203 |
I hope this helps someone in the future. You all still might have to help me in the near future with the de-noiding thing. |
