| Author | Message | ||
     Lastonetherebuys |
I know it has been discussed be 4 but just wondering what ppls opinions are on the long term use of either the 6mm rotor or the 5 mm finned rotor. also looking for benefits and downsides to both | ||
| Jdugger |
My suspicion is you don't need either. But, just in case, please post up a picture of your existing rotors. The 6mm rotor is cheaper, but also thicker and heavier. In exchange for better handling the heat of a track day, you get some additional unsprung weight and rotational mass. The 5mm is finned and cools better, plus weighs less than the 6 while offering similar heat handling performance. It's more expensive. With the right pads and brake fluid, the OEM rotors can do surprisingly far. I'm starting to replace mine with the 5mm finned option, but that's only as the OEM rotors are wearing out. | ||
| Lastonetherebuys |
I was thinking for when my rotor is due for replacement seeing as the coin is going to be out of my pocket i would rather see it go to EBR than HD and possibly face non availability. I am more so thinking for best bang for my buck when it is time to replace | ||
| Arcticcr |
Don't forget about the hardware upgrade as well.  That may be the best bang for the buck. ~ Jay | ||
| Captain_america |
Whats the Story behind the hardware upgrade? | ||
| Skntpig |
I read on here that it is an updated design that now incorporates an additional washer that helps dissipate heat from the rotor to the wheel under heavy use. I could be wrong but thats what I recall. | ||
| Jdugger |
> I am more so thinking for best bang for my buck when it is time to replace The 6mm for rotor and hardware is a titch less $$ than the OEM, and would perform better under hard use at the expense of some extra weight, and slightly slower steering. If you aren't doing track days, I doubt you'd notice, and you would support EBR in the process. | ||
| Jdugger |
On the new hardware, yes, the spring is now a diaphragm washer instead of in the wheel like the OEM setup. The copper increases the transfer of heat to the wheel itself. I've not tried it, but using RBF600 fluid, even though I was actually turning my brake *lines* a straw color from the heat, I was not getting brake fade on the OEM system. I suspect the combination of the 5mm finned rotor, good fluid, and this mount kit would put the brake's heat dissipation capability above any of us here as riders. | ||
| Littlebutquick |
Got my front/rear 5mm plus bolt kit today they look sweet well made don't really need them to stop any better just for less weight and rolling mass might be 1000 of a second in it down the black strip  seemed a good deal till i got import charges added | ||
| Captain_america |
K so here is my question: My stock front rotor warped @ 2800miles. I feel that I am very easy on brakes compared to 90% of the people out there... without driving 18mph like all the immigrants here in So Cal... Cars included. Sooooo will this trick heat dissipating hardware prevent or help against future warpage??? My Bike is currently getting the rotor changed as we speak. | ||
| Froggy |
Your rotor isn't warped. 99% of the time its either your brake pads leaving deposits on the rotor or its a buildup of brake dust on the float springs. I have only seen one XB rotor that was warped, and that was on a race bike. | ||
| Blackflash |
Mine was warped when I bought it.lol covered by warranty. | ||
| Captain_america |
Froggy... The Brothers, lol, at HD said it was warped. They are wrong? | ||
| Cataract2 |
There's an updated brake pad part number. I got my pads swapped out under warranty and the problem of the warped feel went away. This has been a long time known thing with the brakes. The old pad design built up an uneven deposit of brake dust that would give you the warped feel. | ||
| Froggy |
Most likely. It often is mis-diagnosed as warped. Cleaning the springs and giving the rotor a good scrubbing can get rid of the pulsing. Also some report that doing some hard braking from 70 to 10mph a few times can help scrub off the rotors if its that. | ||
| Johnnys999 |
All the immigrants drive 18mph? If you say you are easy on brakes then I would say your pad to discs don't generate a lot of heat. Heat is an element that can contribute to warping. Check out the Italian made ALTH rotors for the Buell. I don't know how thick they are but I bought pair for my 916 Ducati and they were thicker than normal. ALTH claims they do this to prevent warping. I would be inclined to pick a rotor that is on the thick side. Too thick however and you might have contact issues, that happened to me once. | ||
| Captain_america |
Johnny's... if I read correctly, you statement contradicts itself | ||
| Johnnys999 |
How so? if you mean being inclined to get a rotor on the thick side, I did indicate getting one too thick however is not good either. As in the case of extremes. | ||
| Jdugger |
If you are "light on the brakes", think your rotor is warped, and you get race rotors/pads as a solution, it won't be long until you think all the new stuff is REALLY warped. The OEM pads like to be used HARD. If your rotor is pure silver (instead of tan, blue and purple), you are not using the brakes hard enough. Buy a softer "street" pad. The OEM pad is really more of a "trackday" pad, IMHO. | ||
| Jdugger |
> If you say you are easy on brakes then I would say your pad to discs don't generate a lot of heat. Heat is an element that can contribute to warping. Yea, but that's not his problem unless his rotors look MUCH WORSE than this (notice coloring around mount points and of rotor itself):  There's a 99% chance in my opinion the issue is an uneven deposit on the rotor from the OEM pads. | ||
| Captain_america |
Right. So being light on the brakes would NOT cause a lot of heat which would NOT cause warping... My rotor was blue in the middle and gold around the outsides. That rotor looks cool... I like it. If you. Guys think I should put more heat into the front rotor by using it harder, I will. | ||
| Jdugger |
Run it up to 90 or so and use the brake hard to come down to 10 or 20 mph. Actually, it's really good practice in general in case you ever need to emergency stop. You will know when you are doing it really right when you can consistently manage to get the rear wheel to slightly hop. | ||
| Captain_america |
You can only go as fast as you can stop right... That's how it think about it. Well when I get my bike back with the new rotor on it I will really pay attention to what happens and being as though I didn't put the first 100miles on my bike anyway I will be able to ensure that the rotor and pads are properly bedded in this time.  | ||
| Froggy |
Do yourself another favor, use the rear brake to hold your bike at lights/signs, this will also prevent the pads from leaving deposits.  | ||
| Captain_america |
HUH? So if you hold the brake after using it to come to a stop it leaves deposits!?! that's either one of the dumbest things I've ever heard of, or its has to due with "track duty" that I'm not aware of. This doesn't happen with cars as you MUST leave the brakes applied when coming to a stop... I don't care what brakes you have on it. | ||
| Froggy |
How is that the dumb? Think about it, you get the rotor and pads nice and hot, pad materials are sticker. The force of the caliper clamping down can cause material to stick to the rotor. Ever have a bit of a cheeseburger stick to your grill? Same thing. Oh, and it can happen in cars too. | ||
| Captain_america |
Ya I understand that (in theory) but I've never seen that happen with brakes, or even hear about it. | ||
| Westmoorenerd |
Happens quite alot in cars...most "warped" rotors are due to this. | ||
| Blazin_buell |
I've had my Finned 5mm on for almost 3 weeks now and I'm very happy with it. I had a little bit of pulsating with my oem and I wasn't sure if it was pads or rotor. Well I left the stock pads in(2mmm left)and it was like a new rotor(cause it is). I guess my point is the weight and heat benefits of this rotor at this price point is phenomenal!! When the parts 1st appeared on EBR I thought it was a mistake,so of course I went ahead and ordered. For almost half of what a Braking or Galfer would cost I think it's the dogs danglies! |
