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Captain_america
| Posted on Wednesday, January 27, 2010 - 01:32 am: |
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First of all, I would like to say this forum is awesome and you guys are the Sh*t! Ok, after some brown nosing I wonder if you guys could throw some ideas out there on three issues I have with my CR. I have searched "quickly" about # 1 and 2 1. I have gotten the Low Fuel System Error (B10056) CEL several times now. In Previous reading, I saw that all that this requires is a cluster change ... Is that correct? Bought my bike new 12-31-09 mfg date: December '08 It has never been re-flashed that I know of. Never been back to the dealer with it yet either. I've got 2800 miles on her. 2. Front End Vibration When I apply the front brake @ anything over 40mph, and it doesn't matter how hard I apply it. Doubt its a warped rotor. The lever does not pulse but the whole right front of the bike vibrates. If I look down at the right fork i can see it vibrate fore and aft. It also vibrates the right mirror so that i can't see anything out of it. Its worse stopping from a higher speed. 3. I lost my parking lights and turn signals sometime today. All I have left is Headlights and a brake only light. This is strange to me, as I would consider myself very good with electronics. All fuses are good. Front park light and tail/brake light is good. I have removed the license plate light (unplugged). What else is left to check here? Thanks |
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Froggy
| Posted on Wednesday, January 27, 2010 - 02:04 am: |
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1, Yes new cluster in most cases. 2, Thats a new one to me, tire pressure and suspension setup is good? Wheel bearings good? 3, The turn signals (not sure about parking light), are controlled by the instrument cluster. Since the fuses are good, I am not sure what else you could do off hand. Time to break out the electrical manual ![: )](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/clipart/happy.gif) |
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Captain_america
| Posted on Wednesday, January 27, 2010 - 02:12 am: |
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Thanks Bud. 2. I've been too busy to really check all the mechanical things on the front end (Hour lunch is all the time I can find) like caliper bolts, rotor bolts and so on... I adjusted the rear sus. a couple weeks ago and haven't touched the front yet. This problem developed within the last two or three days. Is it possible that prob 1 and 3 can be fixed with a new cluster? |
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Syonyk
| Posted on Wednesday, January 27, 2010 - 02:16 am: |
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Is it possible you have some uneven pad deposits on the rotor (often caused by stopping when the rotor is hot, or holding the front brake when it's hot) and that's causing the vibration/pulsing? I'd try going out and re-bedding the brakes. |
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Captain_america
| Posted on Wednesday, January 27, 2010 - 02:19 am: |
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The Rotor Looks Perfect to me... a little dirty as it has been raining like crazy for California standards... I'll post a pic in the mornin' |
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Patkin
| Posted on Wednesday, January 27, 2010 - 08:53 am: |
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Im in UK, new 2010 CR. I have the low fuel and engine management light when cold. Also with 450 miles only I now have a pulsing through the forks from the front brake, unlike yours its a buzz at higher speeds reducing to a slowing thud (1 per rev) as I come to a stop. |
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Kirb
| Posted on Wednesday, January 27, 2010 - 08:58 am: |
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2. Front End Vibration When I apply the front brake @ anything over 40mph, I would suggest the wheel bearings (or mounting of wheel), head tube tightness, rotor mounts, caliper mounts...how many miles on the bike? |
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Illbuell
| Posted on Wednesday, January 27, 2010 - 09:59 am: |
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Its the rotor. You can't "see" its warped anyway. Change it.. The shaking will go away.. |
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Xtreme6669
| Posted on Wednesday, January 27, 2010 - 10:10 am: |
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1 I get this sometimes too on start up even if its not all that cold and the tank is plus 2/3rs full... 2 I got the rotor pulse on mine too after a bunch of city riding... do some very aggressive stops using the front over and over to burn all the crap off but dont come to a complete stop while your doing it, also drag the front under acceleration... it should clean it up... it cured mine.... |
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D_adams
| Posted on Wednesday, January 27, 2010 - 10:15 am: |
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You can test for runout on the rotor and also the wheel with a dial indicator. Not sure what the specs are, but I'd imagine it's under .030" or so. Spin the wheel, record the amount of runout, check the book, replace what's needed or out of spec. |
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Captain_america
| Posted on Wednesday, January 27, 2010 - 11:08 am: |
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Well all you're thoughts are the same as mine. 2800 miles now... Patkin: I think our brake issue is the same but it doesn't vibe at anything less than 40 mph so its hard for me to count the revs. This B*tch is still under warranty, , obviously so I'll Let the "Brothers" Lol at HD take care of it this weekend Thanks a bunch for you're input!! |
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Buellbaker
| Posted on Wednesday, January 27, 2010 - 01:40 pm: |
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I also get low fuel and engine light on when the engine is cold. Got mine in December 400 miles on it now Dealer is getting new clocks for it. Great bike the only down side I have wit it is the mpg 35 and riding steadily running it in. |
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Ratbuell
| Posted on Wednesday, January 27, 2010 - 02:47 pm: |
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You say you've never touched the front suspension settings? DO IT. The bikes are NOT preset at the factory for ANY weight range. Matter of fact, the forks are not even set to match each other. You might have one set up for a 245lb rider, and one for 140lb-and-under. All they do is bolt on an assembly at the factory, and ship the bike. SET YOUR SUSPENSION. As for the CEL and signal issues...yes, it is possible that it can be fixed with a new cluster. Although...I'd double-verify you don't have anything shorting the wires from your removed tag light. To test the signals themselves...unplug and hook to 12v and ground. If they don't light, reverse the wires (LEDs are polarity sensitive). But...if it's all four signals...I'm leaning towards cluster. |
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Justa4banger
| Posted on Wednesday, January 27, 2010 - 03:06 pm: |
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i Also have the fuel lamp issue when its cold.. but after riding it for a bit the lamp goes out and works fine... I just ignore it and use the trip odo...i reset it every fill up. its muscle memory now.. I also notice i have a slight shimmy in the front end when slowing down... I have adjusted the suspension per the manual, but i also notice i have what looks to be brake pad residue on the rotor.. from my reading on Badweb, it seems one trick might be to scrub the rotor with a scotchbrite pad or 200 grit sand paper just enough to remove the residue.. but if it continues it will go back to the dealer.. even a buddy at my dealership notice the rotor and thought it was warped but it doesn't act like it.. the bike itself pulses, not the brakes or lever... i have 2500 mile +/-... |
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Justa4banger
| Posted on Wednesday, January 27, 2010 - 03:06 pm: |
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Oh check the flasher for the signals.... |
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Captain_america
| Posted on Wednesday, January 27, 2010 - 03:21 pm: |
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I do need to do the front suspension, the ride is super choppy like it's set for a 300lb dude. But the thing that gets me is that this problem came out of nowhere within the last couple of days. I checked the tag light wires and all is well. The turn signals work by powering them straight from the battery. The indicator for the flashers on the cluster does not light in either direction |
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Captain_america
| Posted on Wednesday, January 27, 2010 - 03:29 pm: |
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![](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290431/533443.jpg)
![](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290431/533444.jpg)
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Ccryder
| Posted on Wednesday, January 27, 2010 - 03:37 pm: |
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The turn signal flashing is controlled by the IC. The parking, signal lights and such sounds like a ground issue. The brake might be the pads depositing material on the rotor. Due about 6 hard stops from 50-60mph and see if that helps. The fuel light is an known issues at lower temps. Bring it to the dealer and have it documented. Later |
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Justa4banger
| Posted on Wednesday, January 27, 2010 - 03:53 pm: |
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YEa your rotor looks similiar to mine... thanks for the info CCryder on the signals.. I just figured there would be a flasher.. |
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Captain_america
| Posted on Wednesday, January 27, 2010 - 04:11 pm: |
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I just made the front sus. adjustment based on my weight (Less than 170) so the 65 mile ride home tonight should tell me if that helps... |
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Captain_america
| Posted on Wednesday, January 27, 2010 - 04:22 pm: |
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If you tap your knuckle against the rotor does it make a loose sound or should it sound solid? Mine seems like it isn't tight against the wheel (floating rotor?) I don't have the correct torx bit with me to check. |
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Sportster_mann
| Posted on Wednesday, January 27, 2010 - 04:33 pm: |
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I also had the low fuel and engine warning lights this morning - temperature was about freezing point. Mine's a 2010 CR with 50 miles on the clock. Never had it happen on my 2008 R, instead I have a misting up issue ... |
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Hairy_cannonball
| Posted on Wednesday, January 27, 2010 - 07:06 pm: |
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My 2009 CR also has the fcl cel b1005 code issue when cold..yeah yeah I know another me too post...The dealer is willing to get me a new cluster, the one on the bike now is FW version 6.1, I believe the new one will be 6.2, but after reading Sportster mans post I am not sure a new cluster is going to address this minor issue. Shouldn't his 2010 have the latest IC firmware? Has anyone else with an 09 fixed this by replacing the cluster with 6.2? |
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Froggy
| Posted on Wednesday, January 27, 2010 - 07:15 pm: |
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2010's came with the same cluster software, only difference was it picks up the incandescent turn signals instead of LED. The fixed software came out after the 2010's were released. |
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Hairy_cannonball
| Posted on Wednesday, January 27, 2010 - 07:26 pm: |
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Cool, thanks Froggy..Well then I guess I will hold out hope that 6.2 will fix the issue on my bike. |
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Redscuell
| Posted on Wednesday, January 27, 2010 - 07:29 pm: |
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"1. I have gotten the Low Fuel System Error (B10056) CEL several times now." You being in the Northern Hemisphere, it's winter for you now: this error code appears on cold days (only the coldest here Down Under, which w/b around zero C about 6 months from now). Changing the cluster is unlikely to help; it's a problem with the sending unit. In other words, it's not warning you of any actual problem; so, not to worry. |
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Justa4banger
| Posted on Wednesday, January 27, 2010 - 10:53 pm: |
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yes the rotor is a floating design.. it should not feel solid against the wheel |
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Freezerburn840
| Posted on Monday, March 22, 2010 - 12:35 pm: |
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I had some of the same issues with pulsing from the front brakes. I still have good meat on my pads. So I tried some contact cleaner and a clean cloth and scrubbed both sides of the rotor. Sure enough it did the trick. When I get back home I will do it again for good measure. I thought initially it was a warped rotor. Try cleaning the rotor first like other people have stated. Sand paper and cleaner. I guess the stuff I use is pretty potent. I did not need the Sand paper although I would not of hesitated to use it. If the standard shop cloth wouldnt do it. |