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Duggram
| Posted on Tuesday, January 19, 2010 - 07:50 pm: |
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Is there a lighter battery for the 1125? If yes, where can I get one? I'm probably going to need one soon anyway. |
Family_buells
| Posted on Tuesday, January 19, 2010 - 08:21 pm: |
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I haven't used one, but I've been very interested in something like this: http://www.carbon-speed.com/prod.htm |
Fresnobuell
| Posted on Tuesday, January 19, 2010 - 08:33 pm: |
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Those are way cool and not overly expensive (at least the 4 cell battery.) Anyone know if the 4-cell could handle the 1125 for track duty? |
Fresnobuell
| Posted on Tuesday, January 19, 2010 - 08:37 pm: |
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PS--I read the part about bikes over 750cc needing the 8-cell....just hoping we might be able to get away with a 4-cell. |
Tibman260
| Posted on Tuesday, January 19, 2010 - 08:46 pm: |
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You are going to need the eight cell pack if you plan on running in sub 40 deg weather, in fact you'll probably need the 8 cell pack anyway. The 1125s pull well over 300 amps when they are cranking and need a fairly decent battery. The interesting part about the lithium ions is that in cold weather they will actually be really crappy the first couple times you crank but will gradually improve as the battery heats up. The other thing to watch for is those batteries didn't look like they had a balancing board which is really important for the longevity of the cells. |
Ccryder
| Posted on Tuesday, January 19, 2010 - 08:46 pm: |
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Is it really worth ~$57/ a pound in weight savings? |
Froggy
| Posted on Tuesday, January 19, 2010 - 08:51 pm: |
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I run a Speedcell 12 cell on my XB with no issues. I recall a post a while back that EBR has one coming out. |
Fresnobuell
| Posted on Tuesday, January 19, 2010 - 09:05 pm: |
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Found this one as well. Cheaper. http://ebattonline.com/index.html |
Fresnobuell
| Posted on Tuesday, January 19, 2010 - 09:12 pm: |
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Speedcell per Froggy http://www.oppracing.com/products/7400-speed-cell- batteries/ |
Bob_saggot
| Posted on Tuesday, January 19, 2010 - 09:43 pm: |
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Or you could not eat the extra Big Mac on the way home from work lol. |
Duggram
| Posted on Tuesday, January 19, 2010 - 10:02 pm: |
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In a Dec RRW article about the 1125RR it was stated that it weighs 38 pounds less than the standard 1125. If you could knock almost 5 pounds off with the battery that's a good chunk. For sure the cost is a lot, but if it's your only track bike we're talking about you look at it differently. I've been paying about $80 lately for similar sized battery. The CarbonSpeed cost $230. So, that brings the cost per pound weight saving down around $30. Did anyone notice that the CarbonSpeed batter doesn't need a tender? The battery only loses 1% of its charge when sitting for a year. I like that too. |
Fresnobuell
| Posted on Tuesday, January 19, 2010 - 10:30 pm: |
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Weight (or lack thereof) is HUGE on the track...the 20-30 extra pounds the 1125r carried in DSB were overlooked way too easily by most. |
Bob_saggot
| Posted on Tuesday, January 19, 2010 - 11:22 pm: |
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You guys could hire a midget to ride your bike on the race track. That would shave a few more lbs off. |
Jdugger
| Posted on Tuesday, January 19, 2010 - 11:24 pm: |
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I have the Carbon speed 8 cell. I'd not want to try the 4, honestly. Is it worth it? Well, on my track bike between the battery, exhaust, fasteners and subframe, I knocked more than 25 lbs off the stock bike. That's roughly 4 HP, but it also makes the brakes work better, the bike easier to turn... everything is better. The OEM battery for the 1125r is VERY heavy, and it's out on the end of the tail section. Moving to the Carbon Speed battery, I actually had to adjust my preload and rebound settings on the rear shock the change was that significant! Even if the battery is relatively short lived, I say it's worth it for a track bike. If you are worried about battery longevity from starts, you could go with the 4-cell and always retain your OEM battery on a tender for use as a jumper. Just wire up some short 12ga SAE connectors to handle all that current... |
Slaughter
| Posted on Tuesday, January 19, 2010 - 11:25 pm: |
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EBR should have their lightweight battery. I have a Speedcell that Higbee ran on his 1125R racebike with no problems. It'll be going into my XB racebike (total loss electrical system) |
Jdugger
| Posted on Tuesday, January 19, 2010 - 11:25 pm: |
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> You guys could hire a midget to ride your bike on the race track. Arguably that is part of Honda's MotoGP strategy. |
Fresnobuell
| Posted on Tuesday, January 19, 2010 - 11:47 pm: |
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Even if the battery is relatively short lived, I say it's worth it for a track bike. If you are worried about battery longevity from starts, you could go with the 4-cell and always retain your OEM battery on a tender for use as a jumper. Just wire up some short 12ga SAE connectors to handle all that current... Keeping the OEM battery is something that I would do. It sure would suck to waste a track day with a dead battery, lightweight or not! You don't think that a 20 minute track session would keep the 4-cell charged enough to start a warm bike for the next session? } |
Froggy
| Posted on Tuesday, January 19, 2010 - 11:54 pm: |
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Freseno, with the speedcell batteries you can get quick release connectors on them. The guy that makes them says he runs a total loss system, and in between sessions he quickly swaps out the battery and throws the used one on a charger. |
Jdugger
| Posted on Wednesday, January 20, 2010 - 07:58 am: |
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I don't think that 4 cell by itself stands much of a chance with 1125r at all. My proposal -- which wasn't so clear -- is to go with the 4 cell, but ALWAYS hook up the OEM battery for starts. I've been using the 8 cell, and only cold starts are an issue. (My 08 is very hard starting when cold.) It's sturdy enough so far for warm starts just fine, and I am doing 20-30 minute sessions. |
Ccryder
| Posted on Wednesday, January 20, 2010 - 08:23 am: |
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Just color me curious, why is 5lb or even 10lb so critical for "track days"? I can understand that for racing, even at the amature level, that the hp- weight could make a difference but for track days why spend the $'s? I guess it's just bragging rights. Enjoy. I am interested in the technology but, b4 I go at prime rib priced weight reduction I'm going after my waistline MUCH cheaper and waaay better for my health and riding in the long run. |
Crackhead
| Posted on Wednesday, January 20, 2010 - 08:25 am: |
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Or use your OEM battery in your other bikes and get one of the big jump boxes for track day starts........does your generator have an electric start? a long set of jumper cables would do the trick. |
Jdugger
| Posted on Wednesday, January 20, 2010 - 08:46 am: |
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CC, I hear ya bud, but I assure you after I put my 1125r on a diet, it was a really dramatic improvement in the handling of the bike. Several WHOLE SECONDS have come off personal best times at my two home tracks, one 1.7m and one 2.5m. That's really significant to go and best a summer time personal record in January. If you were to replace the OEM battery with the 8-cell Carbon speed battery, you are actually saving more like 10lbs, not just 5. And, those 10 lbs are high up in the bike and back on the tail. When I say I had to readjust the preload on my rear shock, I wasn't kidding. I put my bike on an enormous diet, and so far I've been able to shake over 25lbs from the OEM configuration! Some of the things I've done and the weight savings: Custom sub frame, eliminated battery pan (3-4lbs) Lightweight battery (10 lbs) Non-critical fasteners changed to plastic, aluminum, or drilled. (3 lbs) Exhaust, FMF Apex (10 lbs) Race rotor (1 lb, unsprung!) Drop Belt Guards (1 lb, unsprung!) My next moves are: 420 Forged Magnesium Rear wheel (3 lbs) 17" Forged Mag Front wheel (1.5 lb) Lightweight fairing stay (1 lb, I think.) Race wiring harness (1 lb) Bang for the buck, the big moves are in the exhaust and battery. After that, stuff starts getting increasingly expensive. I decided to fab my own subframe, but looking back on it, I'd probably just buy the Buell one or cut up the OEM. It took something like 20 hours getting all the dimensions right and the fit clean, just because there's so many twists bends and curves in the OEM piece. All that weight makes a huge difference in how the bike accelerates, in particular in how it brakes, and how it handles in the corners. You DO notice it at track speeds. (Message edited by jdugger on January 20, 2010) |
Captain_america
| Posted on Wednesday, January 20, 2010 - 11:01 am: |
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Why are the Carbon speed cells only used on the track? You cant use them everyday? Is it because they are a deep cycle or am i missing something else? |
Jdugger
| Posted on Wednesday, January 20, 2010 - 11:17 am: |
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> Why are the Carbon speed cells only used on the track? I think for right now, many people have a "wait and see" attitude about the reliability of the batteries. I don't know of a technical reason why they can't be used in street applications. But, generally, paying $200+ for a battery vs. OEM is still in the realm of those who are willing to fork over the premium for the weight savings. |
Andynj
| Posted on Wednesday, January 20, 2010 - 01:19 pm: |
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I actually spoke with Jason over at Speedcell about this exact topic a few days ago. I asked about the suitability and size required for a 1125r and his reply was that several AMA racers running 1125rs are using Speedcells including factory bikes. For street use he commented that the 1125r is very sensitive to voltage drop during startup especially if the batt is below 11.8v. Not due to the effort of starting the bike but I guess the electronics related to it. He reccomended for the following options for 1125rs depending if the biker is track only or street. If you are track only you should be able to get away with a 8 cell batt ($250) however if you street the bike a lot he reccommended the 12 cell ($375). I enquired about a BW group buy price but the best he could do was free shipping CUS. For me this is a think about it for a while topic, the extra weight and space would be a no brainer at the 4 cell price $160 but that wont work for our bikes. $375 right now is better spent on other things. Maybe in the future.... If anyone would like Jasons contact details please PM me as I dont think I am allowed to post his Email. PS I am not affiliated to the company in any way just though I would pass along the info. |
Fresnobuell
| Posted on Wednesday, January 20, 2010 - 01:37 pm: |
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How heavy is the stock battery exactly? |
Froggy
| Posted on Wednesday, January 20, 2010 - 02:03 pm: |
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quote:How heavy is the stock battery exactly?
About 12lbs. I guess the pricing went up, I paid $350 + shipping for mine (12 cell) over a year ago, I ordered my by contacting the info listed on www.speedcell.us |
Fresnobuell
| Posted on Wednesday, January 20, 2010 - 03:12 pm: |
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12 lbs! wow. that means you will get the weight savings of losing the stock exhuast can in a much more important place--up high in the tail. Done deal. |
Captain_america
| Posted on Wednesday, January 20, 2010 - 03:39 pm: |
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Jdugger - That sounds like a valid assumption to me. Ok so a 12 cell batt (specs would be nice) @ $375 and (guessing) 2.3 pounds saves 9.7 pounds... round to 10 That's a lot of cash! but you get what you pay for right? It's Like buying an Optima for your car... I swear buy those batteries, they are awesome. It will be nice when they get their website finished to compare specs. When my OEM batt fails I'll definitely go with that... |
Froggy
| Posted on Wednesday, January 20, 2010 - 04:00 pm: |
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Here is some details provided to me by Josh @ Speedcell when I inquired about buying one
quote:Frank, Thank you for all the details on the accessories your running. Frank the best way to calculate total draw & load is to consider that all accessories are being powered at the same time. This allows to me to calculate plenty of reserve. Considering these parameters my math shows that your total draw is 30 amps, with your stator's normal output @ 3K rpm being 40.08 Amps. Your current battery is a 14S producing 230 CCA.... all the XB's I have encountered need between 170-190 Amps for starting.... . This is a significant discharge. A negative feature of Lead Acid batteries is that a high discharge will reduce their total capacity by more than 50%. So w/ all of your power needs & the high amp draw at start up, your stator is playing catch up to recharge the battery all the while running your accessories. All of this combined will result in low voltage which is a batteries worst enemy. Make sense? One of the features of my battery packs is the utilization of LiFEPO4 ( Lithium Ferrous ) cells. Besides having a very high power to weight ratio (1.8 Amps / gram) their most significant feature is a very HIGH discharge rate w/ little to no degradation in capacity. So Frank now you know a little more about what is going on inside your motorcycle & a little bit more about my battery packs. Due to your high power needs I am going to recommend my 6.9Ah battery which delivers a total of 360 amps for 10 seconds & 210 amps continuous @ 11.8V This will more than cover any of your power needs & will reduce your weigh by 7lbs. Pricing for this battery is: $350.00
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