| Author | Message | ||
     1_mike |
My CR only has a little over 8500 miles on it. I have about 10 days off during the holidays, so for many years, this is when I do my valve maintenance on my bikes. Anyway, even though the engines short of the required adjustment miles, I tore into it anyway. My finding...all of the valves were .001" to .002" UNDER the minimum. While I know some have not had to do do an adjustment....take it for what it's worth... I'd be very concerned if I waited for the books 12,000 miles to adjust mine, that I may have damage. And as for being under any warranty...all they'd fix is the obvious...not go hunting for any cast iron dust floating around in the crankcase. Mike | ||
| 20buellteam |
I ride with a guy here in town and when he self performed his own valve service on his '08 1125R this past summer, he said no adjustments were needed. He did replace the plugs though as recommended and said they looked due at the recommended approx. 12000 mile mark(did you replace your plugs?). From what I've read.... valve adjustment requires a lot of dis-assembly. Wouldn't think you'd want to do it too often. Each motor can vary and .001" to .002" my have simply been the result of seating in "earlier on" depending on how it's ridden during break-in -among other things. Doesn't mean things will move at the same rate going forward. Tight valves can lead to rough idle and or off idle hesitation in general and poor efficiency (mpg suffers). If you noticed improvements post service than an early service makes sense....in your case. Not sure every one needs to follow suit though. Just my 2cents worth | ||
| Bobbuell1961 |
+1 Mike, a loose valve is a happy valve, the first valve service is very important, this is when you will see the most change do to valves setting in. if i was close to min but in spec i would change the shims. I myself will probably be in the engine before the 12k service, the 1125 platform is pretty ez to work on. AS for the plugs why can i leave the plug alone in my car for 100k but i need to change the bikes at 10-12k. Mine will be replaced as they are out anyway. Bob | ||
| Oldog |
AS for the plugs why can i leave the plug alone in my car for 100k but i need to change the bikes at 10-12k. If I understand it correctly, our plugs are just over 20.00$ each, the 100K mile plugs in a ford V8 are close to 100$ each | ||
| Bobbuell1961 |
Your prices seem a little high,American Sport Bike lists plugs at $7.95 each,and iwould doubt the the ford plug is $100,although i don't know for sure | ||
| Keef |
that i believe may be true on some ford engines BUT he neglected to tell you the coil and electronics are made on each plug..a normal 100k plug costs 10.00 each retail..that is a/c delco plugs | ||
| Xnoahx |
economies of scale at work. I can buy an entire car for what the 1125 cost originally. If youre riding a bike to save money, you made a poor choice. | ||
| 1_mike |
Of course the plugs get changed... Cheap insurance...and NOT 20.00 ea. Another apparent wives tale. Be careful replacing the front exhaust shims. Mike | ||
| Sknight |
Modern cars use plugs that are 95% identical to the plugs from 100 years ago. The coils, while mounted directly on the plugs aren't part of the plug and can be replaced separately of each other. Regular conventional plugs are $3-7 each, platinum plugs are $8-10 each and iridium plugs are $9-11 each from what I've seen. Some specialty plugs from a dealership can get into the $15 range but far from $20. The reason our plugs need changing so early is that we have conventional plugs which don't wear as well, in a high compression, high temperature, high speed environment. They live a much harder life. Platinum plugs would last about twice as long, iridiums would last about a third longer. The spark energy imparted is negligible between the three. | ||
| Xtreme6669 |
The long life NGK plugs we use in the BMW engines list in the $23-$29 range... However cost on them varies for $7 to up to $15 | ||
| Zacks |
Oh, think about it. Being an electrical component with wear surfaces, there is a finite life span in a spark plug. How often do you push your engine to 10k rpms? How often does your car see that? What's the car's idle speed in rpms? | ||
| Moosestang |
I doubt many people have a 12.3:1 compression ratio in their car motor. Ford plugs are not $100 each, not sure where you got that. A set of 8 autolite ht0's for my mustang cost $80. That's expensive for a car spark plug. Not sure why Ford had to design such a silly looking spark plug in the first place. | ||
| Ccryder |
I guess at 118,000 miles I should change the plugs on my F-150 5.4l. I hear the rear ones are a real PITA, anybody got some suggestions? | ||
| Cataract2 |
Mike, how much and an adjustment did you go with the shims on your bike? I took all of mine to the very end of the max side. As for the shims in the front exhaust. I found a tool that made that job 10x easier than anything else. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_009469480 00P?vName=Tools&keyword=pick+up+magnet This magnet has a shield on it that will prevent the shims from going to the side. Use that with a small flat head screw driver and the shims go right in with no problem. | ||
| Skntpig |
ccryder Get this Matco tool before you start busting out those plugs. I wouldn't buy any of those $100 Ford plugs either, just use cheap ones. FORD BROKEN PLUG REMOVER Part#: BPR65 Price: $109.95 Removes broken spark plugs from 2004 and newer Ford Triton 3 valve per cylinder engines. Unique porcelain pusher is used to press the porcelain piece, without breaking the porcelain, farther into the plug tip. Pushing the porcelain provides space for the left hand threaded remover to bite into the plug tip that is stuck in the head, so it can be pulled. Molded storage case included. |
