| Author |
Message |
    
Mountainstorm
| | Posted on Saturday, January 09, 2010 - 10:06 am: | 
|
Nice pit stands 
I'll have to try that, |
Duggram
| | Posted on Saturday, January 09, 2010 - 10:22 am: |
|
Blackflash, I admire your spirit!! Although the jack stands do look iffy. Hope your pipe works out. Do you have dyno plans? Will your price be cheap? Good luck! |
Blackflash
| | Posted on Saturday, January 09, 2010 - 10:23 am: |
|
Notice I have a chainfall holding the bikes bars as a safe guard "see the red strap".
Dont try this at home!! |
Blackflash
| | Posted on Saturday, January 09, 2010 - 10:29 am: |
|
Priced around $550 I hope.304 ss is not cheap but thats my goal.The 304 packing will never burn or blow out.But im way far away from that and if the results are bad then its back to the drawing board.All I care about is moderate gains,tucked pipe and descent sound . The O s b tune will be used to see where I'm at. |
D_adams
| | Posted on Saturday, January 09, 2010 - 11:43 am: |
|
This is entertaining.  |
Jules
| | Posted on Saturday, January 09, 2010 - 12:03 pm: |
|
That looks pretty good... Maybe a tiny bit too "tucked" but better than most of the aftermarket crop.
It'll be interesting to see the results on a Dyno..
Fingers crossed |
D_adams
| | Posted on Saturday, January 09, 2010 - 12:48 pm: |
|
Btw, all the stainless can be had for around $400. 45 degree primaries into a collector, 2 (or 2.25 or even 2.5) inch midpipe, totally custom made muffler, hangers, clamps, etc. Yep, EVERYTHING. The only expense after that is time and quality of the welds. I haven't welded anything up yet (parts aren't here yet) but I'm guessing maybe 4 hours to build it, maybe 5 tops.
When I say totally custom muffler, I mean exactly that. 3.5"x8"x12" oval can is the one I'm using, but there are other options as well, such as 4x8x12 or 3 or 4" rounds. Perforated or louvered cores, stainless steel wool packing or sport packing, end caps, center plates, all 100% polished SS exterior parts and it's totally 304 SS material, with the exception of the steel wool. I'm not sure what it's grade is, I forgot to ask. I'll probably make several just to test out different designs and see where it makes more power what it sounds like. |
Jng1226
| | Posted on Saturday, January 09, 2010 - 12:51 pm: |
|
Awesome! American innovation at its best. I envy you creative, hands-on types. Look forward to your results. Don't forget to shoot some YouTube videos for the all-important "sidewalk" perspective.
Jeff |
Thefleshrocket
| | Posted on Saturday, January 09, 2010 - 01:42 pm: |
|
Blackflash, I'm interested to see what you come up with as a final product. $550 sounds like a good price point if it sounds good, looks decent and makes a little more power than stock.
(Message edited by thefleshrocket on January 09, 2010) |
Blackflash
| | Posted on Saturday, January 09, 2010 - 01:54 pm: |
|
I'm not welding any of it . Just the prototype with is half galvanized half stainless scraps I had. Quality can only be maintained by someone who welds everyday . So therefore the company I working with will jig it and keep the cost down. $$$$ more money in others pockets too. Wholesale I love it!! |
Bob_thompson
| | Posted on Saturday, January 09, 2010 - 03:17 pm: |
|
Blackflash, I really like what you and Dean are doing as its very close to what I have also done seen in my prototype in the picture below. Changed the original outlet to a straight out one and a different hanger but most else is the same. Dents for clearance has not been a problem and flat black VHT paint is fine with it hidden behind my full lowers. Full baffled turbo so no packing to blow out. I'm satisfied but:
Looking forward to seeing some improvement from you guys. Blackflash; your prototype looks good and Dean will be there soon. I also think both of yours and mine are fairly close to the Drummer and Kevin had a good idea. I also think some allowances have to be made for a system out in the open (no lowers) so it looks good.
The great friendly rivalry in this thread and the sharing of ideas is what makes this web site one of the best around. Keep up the good work everyone!
|
Blackflash
| | Posted on Saturday, January 09, 2010 - 05:28 pm: |
|
I agree with you bob .As we spoke before I have all winter .The snows killing me right now.It doesnt help my driveway is a sheet of ice and is also 1000 ft long .I want to see what this beast sounds like under load.It sounds great free revving.I just have to wait till I get my collector and bends to get this beast looking tight and right.I dont even really car if I sell em .I just wanted a pipe that didnt sound like a raspy terd.I got the sound I want.It might not look like a showpiece but by god it sounds like a beast!!
!!
|
Blackflash
| | Posted on Saturday, January 09, 2010 - 07:43 pm: |
|
D adams i measured up with 55 degrees off the primarys into a 2.5 collector.I believe 45 will work but will not be so tucked on the engine.I believe this is important !That way any fairing combination will work.The downpipe in the stock muffler is 2.5".It will also detonate sound better in a larger downpipe.All my restriction is done in the muffler. |
D_adams
| | Posted on Saturday, January 09, 2010 - 07:54 pm: |
|
The only possible problem with a 2.5" pipe is velocity. Volumetrically, it's near a 100% growth over the 1.75" primaries. If it gets too large too fast, then you lose velocity, which would be a bad thing. I have some ideas on how to overcome this possible problem if it arises, but I'll wait and see how it works as is first. |
D_adams
| | Posted on Saturday, January 09, 2010 - 07:56 pm: |
|
Also, I intend for my first attempt to look like a final product. Full polished stainless. I need to pull off the headers anyway, so I'll polish those as well while they're off. |
Blackflash
| | Posted on Saturday, January 09, 2010 - 08:14 pm: |
|
Velocity is created in many ways . Take a close look at my stock downpipe.Buell designed the taper or cone effect on the stock downpipe for a reason. They also used 2.5" for a reason I believe to. The jardines I think use a 2" down pipe but yet again that is a straight through system unlike my pipe it flows 6 directions. So therefore I believe it's needed to have 2.5 inch downpipe then stepped down to create velocity.Who knows maybe a exhaust god can chirp in here . |
Blackflash
| | Posted on Saturday, January 09, 2010 - 08:21 pm: |
|
As far as dyno pulls the guy ive been talking to said wot pull don't tell you much. If the dyno operator doesn't know how to use the brake what good is he. Wot pulls don't show much. Which is 99% of all dyno charts we see.I will do a wot pull for laughs but that's it. |
D_adams
| | Posted on Saturday, January 09, 2010 - 08:36 pm: |
|
Which looks better for a collector? Radius on the left or straight on the right. Inlet (1.875") and outlet (2.5") sizes are the same diameter. It kinda looks like a pair of butts standing there, but it's the smoothest collectors I've found yet.
|
Ironweed
| | Posted on Saturday, January 09, 2010 - 08:38 pm: |
|
D_adams: Must say I've enjoyed your input here regarding muffler work, especially Operation Muffled Thunder. I followed your example and removed the two S tubes in the final chamber and welded up some 1.75 dia. outlets. Was hoping to do the install this afternoon but only succeeded in wadding up the wire mesh gaskets at end of header tubes. I've ordered some replacements but am curious if you know of any other product that might take their place. Thanks for your help. Am anxious to reinstall and fire her up. Will have to wait for a ride-weather in central Ohio is nasty cold. |
D_adams
| | Posted on Saturday, January 09, 2010 - 08:47 pm: |
|
I have not done a search for replacement gaskets, although I'm sure they are available somewhere. I've seen similar ones before, I just don't remember where at the moment.
It's 7 degrees out here. I know whatcha mean on the crappy riding weather. |
D_adams
| | Posted on Saturday, January 09, 2010 - 08:52 pm: |
|
This was my other option, a hand fabricated collector. I used 14 gauge SS, which is extremely heavy for this application. .090" wall thickness is tough to expand. I gave the guy at car-x a set to expand and his machine didn't like doing it. I heard the hydraulics bogging down when he tried it and it ended up not looking exactly how I wanted. If I go this route, I'll use some thinner material, like 18 gauge to make it easier to expand.
|
Blackflash
| | Posted on Saturday, January 09, 2010 - 09:28 pm: |
|
Oh no not bud light lime.Those look like merge collectors. Merge collectors are mAde to weld two tubes side by side. I don't know why you posted those collectors you can't even use them?
1.75 + 1.75 + .625 gap in between the two 1.75 tubes = 4.125 end to end. If those are merge collectors which they look like the one I saw for 30$ and if they r @1.875 tube merge those will not work. 1.875 X 1.875 = 3.75 you need 4.125 to merge the two. You might Want to look into getting a larger one and getting some stars to close the gaps. I'm having a prebent tube/ downpipe with star spacers. Trying to keep it super clean and simple the downpipe and the merge will be one tube. |
Blackflash
| | Posted on Saturday, January 09, 2010 - 09:45 pm: |
|
This merge can possibly work but will require fab work.Which doesnt make $$$.
The stars are a great way to fill the gaps.
The last one is a great option.I can get this one in 2.125 openings and a 2.5 outlet The stars above can be cut in half and used to cap the center up on both sides.Ive looked far and long to find a cheap 304 stainless merge with these properties. |
Bob_thompson
| | Posted on Sunday, January 10, 2010 - 11:46 am: |
|
Blackflash, your very last photo is basically what I did on my merge pipe although I hand fabbed mine by first making a pipe from flat stock about 6" long tapering from the circumference of the two 1 3/4" pipes together to my 2 1/4" collector transition pipe. A funnel if you will. I also used my own star center pieces. I do however like the nice smooth radiused pieces in Deans first picture. Your last one would be just fine. Carry on both you guys. Likin' your work. Bob |
D_adams
| | Posted on Sunday, January 10, 2010 - 04:37 pm: |
|
Thx Bob. The 2 parts I posted are the same as the last pic by bf. It's called a Megs collector. I wanted to see what they looked like side by side. I knew what the ends looked like and what the dimensions were. Personally, I think I like the straight one a bit better, now that I've looked at them a bit. Also, they don't require a star to seal them if it's just a 2 into 1. Set the pipes on a jig with the collector installed to get the correct spacing, mark them where the gap will fall, take off the collector, weld just the section you need inside, put the collector back on, weld around it and you're done. Maybe dress the weld some inside if it needs it prior to sealing the outside, but if you do a decent job with a tig welder, then it most likely won't be needed. I'll post pics later of it. |
Blackflash
| | Posted on Sunday, January 10, 2010 - 06:48 pm: |
|
I plan on recieving my stuff wendsday fingers croosed.Then I will make a jig of a 3'bt 2' 1/2 plate.I plan on keeping this setup .There might be small changes internally but the case and downpipe will remain .Then I will hit up a local dyno for laughs. |
